lewisweller

That doesn't rule out ignition problem. Have you tried blocking off or clamp purge valve pipe to eliminate that additional fuel entering? I think you need to get the tools out bud and whip out the plugs and coils inspect picture and reinstall being 100% everything is spot on so this can be set aside for the moment. This forum ain't gonna fix it, only advice can be given some good and some bad. Good luck.

I expect the system is overly complicated and removing a speed reference will only introduce fault codes, dash warnings and system deactivation (maybe as intended or maybe not as desired). Everything on this car tends to be like this. Intricate some would say .....I have another term I won't mention.

Do the above mentioned checks and then report back.

Techart do modules to keep the air suspension high or low as per your requirement.

Old post but yes E81 power pack and ctts have 0.8bar as opposed to 0.6-0.65bar for ctt. This is the main reason for the 50-70bhp increase the E81 and Ctts have over standard ctt.

Go back to basics first. Are the coil and plugs correct oem parts? Bosch multiple electrode is standard for the S I think. These come pregapped. What torque did you use on the plugs? Is any oil in the plug holes? Recheck and also make sure the coils are seated well and tightly screwed without going crazy and cracking the coil plastic. Earth wires to block clean and tight on the Allen bolt near the number 2 coil and number 7 coil? Try swapping coils from misfiring cylinder to non misfiring cylinder, moving misfires will identify coils fault or installation issues. Inspect the harness for damage or frayed wires. Fuel? Maybe low fuel flow and or pressure. Have you tried Switching to the right pump by pulling the left pump fuse? And restarting the engine afterwards. Was the filter ever changed? Pictures of "wet" plugs would be helpful are you sure it's not oil? This seems more ignition related I think.

Low cylinder compression also needs to be ruled out. How many miles it's done? Maf sensors been cleaned ever?

I think he is referring to the fan blower regulator which controls Fan speed. The temp regulator statement was directed at my post above for my AC compressor not kicking in and sometimes kicking out.

Hi Mike. Not a turbo guru but I will add my pennies worth. 1. The turbo comes in at 2500 this is same as mine. Don't forget I have the E81 kit for 500bhp and 0.8bar + boost if the gauge is to be believed. 2. Boost is lower in first gear yes, mine is the same, it's done to protect the engine and drive train I think. I notice the redline is hit quickly in first gear when rpm flies from 4000 to redline, it's almost so quick you bounce the limiter if in manual with TC off (it won't auto shift). 3. Second gear will and should deliver peak boost from 3000k to gear change rpm. Next gear should also go to peak boost assuming full throttle. 4. If you short shift I can hold mine pegged at max boost it won't drop and build up like if you hit the shift point. Try that on a run be interesting to see if you system will hold the peak boost?? 5. Your first graph looks quite good boost peaks and drops at gear change as expected in relation to rpm. Second graph looks wrong where has the boost gone after the gear change ? This is electronic issue (boost map requested this) or a leak or the wastegate is stuck partially open after the shift? Maybe why you don't build boost as high as one would expect from a remapped ctt ? 0.65-0.7 is standard boost pressure not modified. 6. Have you cleaned the map sensor ? Have you tested the wastegate actuators? They should hold pressure and open in Tandem with 10psi or slightly less. If this isn't spot on with no leaks and they don't open properly and they stick then your boost will never be correct.

The small pipe goes to the rigid metal turbo vent pipes located at the rear of the engine. Mine are leaking oily mess but when it tested it I could get anything to pass so I just left it alone as it a total b * tch to fix. If the vent system from the turbo fails it might be able to become pressurised maybe this is the purpose for the relief valve. Details and pictures are hard to find on the turbo vents I have searched a lot and found jack all.

I think Thomas is spot on, it's a fail safe if the crankcase vacuum becomes pressurised it will vent out here.

Thomas it seems most Porsche do a sleep mode after 1 week but I don't think its supposed to take 5 mins to wake up. Not sure what to advise really.

It's a common fault the rear comfort control module forgets the settings either when switching between keys or when battery is disconnected, even when set again it will not store the settings and you have to re-input the settings you want. Also common is the horn won't chirp even though the settings are stored to do so. Long story short the RCCM needs to be replaced and existing keys coded to new RCCM by dealer etc bit of a hassle which is why I didn't Fix my horn mute issue.

Water issues are normally: 1. Sunroof drain holes blocked, use air line to blow them out periodically. The water will run into the head liner and down the A pillars, and into the fuse supports and onto the floor and wire harness. 2. The AC evaporator drain gets blocked and the water runs into the floor carpets and wire harness. You can pull the drain pipe where it goes from the inside of the passenger footwear through the bulk head and drips out from the firewall side onto the ground. 3. The scuttle panel has drain runs on both sides, one side is the Ecu location and the is next to the wet fuse box. 4. Sill drains which are well documented and video.

I'm very sceptical that the leaky injectors are the cause, not saying they aren't leaking, no harm in pushing them for the tsb if it free. Have your tried to flush your oil? There is another method, it's old school and involves adding atf fluid to your oil for some km and then doing oil change and filter. The atf has the same kind of cleaning effect as engine flush. Probably safer to go for the liqui moly though as we are not in the 1950/60's now. Are they confident the hpfp isn't faulty and cylinder 3 is the first to feel the effects? I know it doesn't make sense but a lot of thing don't on these cars.

Have you considered all these codes are looking more like a power,wiring/control module issue rather than all flap motors going dead in coincidence? I would be confirming power first (battery good? What has supply voltage regulator to fresh air blower got to do with the flaps?) and also looking for corroded wiring connectors, wet floor cables and corroded plug to control module where ever that is? Some model suffer with water collecting in the scuttle panel area where the wet fuse box is..... Some more investigation I suggest my friend..... Good luck keep us posted.

Finally a symptom they can't argue with. Good luck with the new pump let's hope the revision is a good one and last the life of the car like it should do.

His insurance is valid and will pay for all repairs. But no courtesy car which sucks.

Well it seems fate has forced me to act regardless. Yesterday a young chap kindly reversed into my stationary audi and gave me a another couple of weeks of insurance process and body repair and no spare car. The young Yemen lad got in trouble because his licence was expired oops. He called me after and said sorry. Bless my wife said. .....lol So I got no choice but to get the PIG fixed asap. Lucky my good friend has an uncle with a garage here and I'm calling some favours to use the lift and some help to fix the leaking seal. Wish me luck.

In the bundle the black cables that are factory crimped together are they looking good? Why not run some solder over them and then shrink wrap them. If not redo all the soldered and crimped/connected cables, tedious work but you'll have to eliminate this first and its cheap. Brake Switch is on the pedal for 2004-2005 but in 2006 onwards its built into the master cylinder. I have a new oem brake Switch if you want one? I found out the hard way lol mines not on the brake pedal.

Could Try this as a quick fix to get you home.... All credit to Mike Zawowsky. Screen shot attached Be careful of the cheap shafts they usually don't come as high speed balanced ( annoying vibration at highway speeds will drive you insane) and often use poor quality materials which won't last long. If the bearing is OK then do the clamping bush replacement retrofit kit from EPS. It's a diy and retains the original shaft so even though the new shaft looks cheaper and better option if you factor the labour cost in (assuming you take it to a garage) it may not be a bargain if it vibrates and doesn't last very long. Roll the dice........

I'm burning or was burning ..... 1litre per 2000km. Ctt 06

The thermostat starts to open at 85-87oC,, if the AC fan is set to on and cooling, the engine at idle will normally sit ok at 80oC middle of the gauge. When AC is off radiator fans are off, the gauge will rise to about 85-87oC and then I hear the fans kick in and the temp will drop in about 15 second to 80oC again. If I drive really hard the gauge will rise above 80oC if I then slow down or stop (air flow is reduced through the radiator and engine bay). Take note when my head gaskets was blown the temp was not able to hold middle gauge at idle and only revving would bring the temp down (increased circulation). Coolant smells of fuel and the level will drop every few days. So just be careful this is just a thermostat stuck partially open (if it was stuck fully open the engine would stay cooler and take a long time to warm up in winter especially) or have you got a small head gasket leak? Is the coolant level dropping at all? If not then it's just the thermostat stuck half closed.

Thanks for the tip. Is this part number 14 described as cone washer?

Look under dash for relay carrier item 8. Varies according to options fitted.