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Found 9 results

  1. I purchased a 1999 Porsche Boxster 986 about a year ago and I'm having a few problems with the electrical accessories. The top worked fine when I bought it, but now it won't work sometimes. The radio also turns on, then immediately off at startup, and it won' turn back on until a few minutes later either by itself, when I use turn signals, power windows, brake, or even just by itself. After the car is "warmed up", then it will stay on. Other things won't work right or not at all, such as the alarms for, ignition, door open, light switches, etc. The fuses are all fine, and I know the battery had been replaced right before I purchased it. I haven't checked the relay for the top, but I am about to do that now. I feel like there could be a single problem creating all these issues. Any help would be greatly helpful and appreciated!
  2. Greetings and thank you for the informative site. I am a new owner of a 2009 Cayenne base model with dead Horn. I’ve read on the forum of typical failures, including steering wheel wire and two horn units. So far I’ve confirmed the fuse is ok. Before removing wheel arch covers to test the horns, I wanted to check the relay. Is the horn relay in the under hood fuse box? If so, which position? thank you, Ben
  3. Long story short, one day noticed water in the drivers footwell, found a leak on the door to body wire harness. Dried car out. Car was 100% before this, seemed to be OK even when wet. 2 Weeks later, car started getting random faults on the MFI (Brake, ABS, PSM, etc). Would clear, then come, then clear. Battery is about 7 months old (replaced when I first got these errors) Ton of errors in durametric, then one day would not start or move out of if it did start. Peeled carpet back. Found 3 wires. 1 Crimped, 2 soldered. 1 of the soldered was gone, so cut that out, butt soldered and then repeated for the other 2 as I heard they usually go bad. Cleared all the DTCs with durametric, car started fine, all looked good in happyville. 2 weeks later got a check engine light, read codes, p0119, p0117 and p1552 (from memory, may be wrong). Seemed to be the engine temp sensor. Thought maybe a fluke, reset and ignored. This has been on and off last few months. I also noticed when hooking the durametric, or other code readers, it seemed to create a draw on the system, and the engine would idle rough, or the e throttle would not respond if I tried to drive with it plugged in. Pulled the durametric and all was fine, same with a bluetooth ODBII module I have. I replaced relay 433 under the driver's seat, and this seemed to cure that problem, since it provides relayed power to the CANBUS. About 3 months later got a PSM failure, at 45MPH and car went into limp mode. Restarted car, error was gone. Seemed fine for another month, got the same PSM failure yesterday, car seemed to be lurching a bit in slow moving traffic when it came up. Could the bad temp sensor be triggering this? It has slowly gotten worse I assume as once in awhile I see my gauge stops working. Or did I miss something else with my wire repairs. I am at the point ready to rip out passenger wiring under the carpet and inspect, but I suppose I should just replaced the impossible to reach temp sensor first, as it really does seem bad at this point. I also notice all the fuse block fuses for the PSM are on the right hand side, makes me wonder if the wiring issue is there. Just seems weird I have all these problems at once.
  4. Hello.Four weel dr system faulty.We ve changed the servo motor but nothingDoes anybody knows the relay location of this motor?
  5. This just started - When you turn the key to start the vehicle, there is a noise (hum) from the sub-woofer that's stays on until the starter cranks. When the car starts, everything related to the radio is normal, but the LED on the Rear Defroster switch stays on all of the time. I was told the Rear Defroster relay is bad so I purchase a replacement. I'm having a problem locating this relay. Is it located under the dash or behind the rear seat? Which relay is it?
  6. Hey Folks, New to the forum - just joined - so I hope this is in the right place. This is all in reference to a 2013 Cayenne GTS. I've got three questions I hope someone can help clarify. First, I've been reading a bit about the "cut off" between 25-50mph (these numbers fluctuate depending on which forum you are in) regardless of if the PSE is turned on. Is this something that is true? I'm pretty sure I can hear this cut off, but ever since I read about it, I can't tell if it's legitimate or just in my head (Baader-Meinhof Phenomenon type scenario) This post talks about how to remove that by bypassing a diode: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/86-remove-pse-cutout-in-2-minutes-no-tools-required/ If all is true, anyone have any resource on how to finagle this diode on the Cayenne? Where is this diode/relay? Does this mod work for the Cayenne? Second, it looks to be about 600TU to install the PSE if you don't have it, but 150 TU to install just the button (model depending). They didn't put the selector button in until 2014, so, does anyone know if you can have it wired in to the 2013? I'd rather look like an idiot here before going to the dealer. Third, does anyone have or know of a reputable place to get the full factory manual for the car? Thanks in advanced!
  7. Hey all, I have an intermittent issue with a convertible top on a 2003 Boxster. After the car has sat for over a week the convertible top won't go up or down via the switch on the dash. Thanks to the great advice on these forums I was able to eliminate a lot of potential problems (parking break dash light, micro switches, blown fuses). Then I came to some suggestions involving the relay panel and, sure enough, if I pull a relay and put it back in, the convertible top switch on the dash works again. What I can't figure out is why this works. It seems like I'm pulling the wrong relay? I 'borrowed' this pic from another thread because the relay panel looks the same as mine. Everything I've been reading says that the convertible top relay is the long rectangular white box. However, when I pull the smaller white box to the right of it and put it back in, the one with the blue sides (see pic below), the top works again. In case anyone can't see it from the above, here's another pic... The relay I pull to get the top to work again is the one to the right of the yellow outline: Does anyone know why the top works by pulling the wrong box, to the right of what should be the convertible top relay? What is this relay, and if I replace it would it alleviate the issue?
  8. Hello !! I have a mystery I need help with. My car is a 2001 996 Turbo manual. I drove my car for 30 minutes, parked it and went on an appointment. Returned an hour later and...it would not start and ended up with a tow truck recovery. Well, having followed all the good advise on reasons and cures for non starting - my car still wont start !! New fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new battery and new fuses. There is over half a tank of fuel and plenty of battery power. Itturns over really well but it will not fire !! Any other thoughts or potential reasons that I may have overlooked ?? best wishes Pete
  9. Hey fellow Boxster people, I have a strange problem with my 2000 Boxster. The climate control is working erratically. When my friend plugged it into a durametric computer it came back with four errors. (hot cold flap fail,blower fail, and two others i don't recall. We checked fuses all of them were good.So basically I get heat all the time not much. Then if I manually turn off the ac button I get heat out of everywhere. Then after a while some doors move and I get full heat. Anyone hear of this and know of a relay somewhere or something that would cause all 4 fails like that? None of the doors work and then they start working sometimes. The car has been sitting for two years. Thanks Seth
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