lewisweller

I would have a good look around all the vacuum and pcv hoses for cracks or minor issues, oil cap, dip stick, AOS, change the plugs (check the coils anyway) and remove and clean the throttle body carefully and the maf sensors. Reassemble everything clear codes and then finally do a throttle body alignment. Start car and let idle for at least 5mins. Go for a long drive with various cruising speeds and full Throttle bursts to redline. Check codes and idle speed will probably be spot on. The age would suggest engine mounts will be tired and transmit some vibration to the cabin via the chassis.

Sounds fine. Just check voltage after an hour or two to make sure it doesn't decay to anything lower than about 12.6 volts. I've had two batteries that have done this and we're replaced under warranty.

12.6volts engine off ignition off, 13.5-14.2volts at idle and any rpm stable.

12.6volts engine off ignition off, 13.5-14.2volts at idle and any rpm stable.

Any update on this? Thomas is going to be wondering as well, he seems to have a dead primary pump judging by his email to me.

Weak.

Yep battery is first on the list. 12.6volts engine off ignition off, 13.5-14.2volts engine running at idle and at any rpm the voltage should remain stable (or the alternator rectifier is faulty). Anything less than this is going to cause problems. Ask me how I know!

If the centre bearing is ok then you could just buy this eps retrofit mount which means the whole cardan shaft doesn't have to be removed. http://europeanpartssolution.com/products/porsche-cayenne-drive-shaft-clamping-bearing-support-mount/

I will do yes. I've only got one set of top mount and boot clips and o-rings for one strut, I want to buy another set so I do both sides at the same time. May have to wait until January.

Remove the air box and you have access to back of the light to push it out.

Which brand is the oem Porsche battery?

As the tabs and solid section passes the camshaft sensor it induces and cuts an electrical field, from this a small voltage is generated which the dme uses to understand the exact position of the camshaft. If it's bent away the signal may be weak or not generated, if twisted the timing will be seen as incorrect, if the one tab is bent the other will still give timing info but inaccurately. So I think not all situations will create the same fault symptoms, it will depends on the severity of the damages to the tab(s). I think ruling this out if you have a code and symptoms related and have checked many other avenues then it shouldn't be dismissed with out further investigation. (pain in the butt to take valve cover off I know just to look and see). With the cover off its a good opportunity to test and clean the soleniod actuator, to determine if that is playing a part in the problem.

It confirmed the battery is faulty and they gave another free new replacement. Third time lucky I hope. Won't be back to dubai until mid next week to re-install.

Bigbuzki is correct easy stuff first. What you battery voltage engine off ignition off? Your looking for 12.6volts dc When idling what the voltage? Expect 13.5-14.5volts dc. Check your driver and passenger foot well under the carpets any water any broken or corroded wires? Open the cover for "wet fuse box" near brake fluid reservoir, Any water inside or any fuses blown? Blow out the drain holes from the sunroof aperture which runs down to the wet fuse box area. This actually can cause the water to run inside the A pillar and down to your carpet and a wet headliner near the door jam. Also check you battery terminal connection are clean and tight. There is a short length main earth connection cable running from the alternator to the passenger side chassis leg check this is clean and tight, this can be accessed from underneath with the bottom engine cover removed.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/cayenne-955-957/268277-04-ctt-timing-chain-replacement-semi-diy.html Some info here but no diagrams or pictures. http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/cayenne_s_(9pa)/v8-4.5l/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/timing_components/timing_chain/component_information/service_and_repair/removing_timing_chain/page_2290/ Manual isn't all that helpful either.

Sorry I don't. Maybe Loren can help?

Another one with bent tabs this is turning into common occurrence. Let us know what the outcome is, anymore fault codes and what's the running condition now? Thomas your reading this for sure!

P1023, I'm assuming you taken each coil out and had a really good look for cracks melted parts, socket with spring and contact for plug all good? These coils are reknowed for being how shall we say........Absolute sh*te. Swap D location coil to the other bank and see it the code moves. Some member drive around with spares! I would fix this problem and it might very well fix the hard start too.

Just charged the existing battery? Will be interested to see if that lasts or goes back to being poor performing after a while.

Battery held 12.2 volts over night. Not good enough. It did start but not convinced. The charging voltage was 14.02volts and stable at idle and 2k + 4k rpm so new Alternator I think is fine. I've removed the battery and dropped did off at the parts shop and they are sending it for testing. Tomorrow they will either confirm another new battery under warranty or we will be having an argument.

Bit hard to say categorically, but I think the dash light just went out as I tried to crank rather than actually flickering. Could here the starter soleniod click after a few tries that gave up as well. This tell me the battery is funked. If it won't start later I wil pull it out and take it back to the automotive part shop to request another warranty swap.

More drama.......... I noticed last few days the car is not starting so brightly, cranking is laboured and sometimes it misses the crank and I have to rotate key back and it cranks again and starts. My journeys have been long ones and I've been consciously keeping off electrical loads until I got a chance to have a look. Today it nearly didn't start so I got it to the warehouse and plugged in the battery charger. 12.2 volts I had and that's not good. After 90 mins on the charger I disconnected it and flipped the seat back to have a look at the battery and all connections under there. Nothing seems to be wrong terminals tight, no corrosion, I even cleaned everything with scotch bright pad and electrical cleaner spray. Pulled 40 amp fuse and 5 amp fuse all ok and cleaned. Put connections back on and flip the seat back down. Car won't start!!!! Wtf Measures voltage it's 12.2, tried to crank it barely turned and stopped, after that it didn't even try to turn over just click and dash light flickered off and on, air suspension warning yellow then red, battery symbol pops up, measured voltage again 10.48v. not good. I'm thinking could it be seized alternator or something like this again but no voltage is low and engine did rotate some revolution first try before battery gave up. Left the battery on charge with a mate for the rest of the afternoon whilst I went in the audi to visit some clients. He sent me message it charged to 13.9v before he switched it off and left the warehouse. We'll see tomorrow if it starts and if it held the charge over night. I'm thinking this is another faulty battery???!!! Varta silver (manufactured with the Bosch S batteries same factory different branding I'm reliably informed) 110ah 900cca brand new under warranty (when new Alternator went in just two months ago) replaced for the previous one that lasted only 6 months that died albeit on the failing alternator). I do long journeys and I manage my electrical loads sensibly so what is causing battery failure? Bad luck another faulty battery? Another problem in the charging system somewhere? New Alternator is charging 13.7v, no belt slippage. Help......

P0102 is maf sensor low voltage (low air flow basically) check wiring and connectors, clean sensors if no luck consider replacements. Yes this can cause psm warning like a whole load of other weird things, but as you got a code and rough idle as it pop the psm it very likely air flow related. Or just try driving around with them disconnected and see if the psm pops up or not or when rough idle starts pull the connectors off the maf's.

I reckon the regulator and or filter blocked was the problem and as the thread went dead he fixed it. Long crank is sometimes because the regulator doesn't hold the fuel pressure in the line and it's required to build up again before starting. Plus the car had sat for 6 months so crud in tank and stuck faulty regulator does seem to point in the same direction.

Yep had this happen. What I did was disconnect and reconnect battery. Then go for a slow short drive to let the car see the steering angle sensor, speed sensor and some other stuff. It will then pump up to its set height. I forgot to turn regulation off once and If it doesn't reset itself you will need to recalibrate it, I used my vagcom vcds to do it and it works fine (there is a knack to getting the value to be accepted by rocking the car forward or back, even I drive it in gear forward and reverse to find the spot where the software will accept the value input. Since that time with regulation off before jacking it will always set itself when you drive alittle way. This is all assuming your battery is ok, the air compressor pump is working, no leaks in the system and no other electrical faults like relief soleniod valve open allowing air to escape from system. My front struts do sag when parked sometimes normally the passenger side. It pumps up quickly and no fault codes so I haven't bothered looking into it.