porschedude

I agree, i would plan in the distant future chain guides. They are pretty easy to replace. Five black ones and one brown one. Clearly understanding how the cams are timed with the metal dowel and timing gear holes the dowel slide into is essential. It’s worth buying the Cam Crowfoot Wrench and the Double “D” Cam Socket. I made my own Cam Nut Crowfoot Wrench out of 3/8” steel plate. It worked but the retail version is much better. Assbite50xx I would be more worried about the 1/4 dollar in your filter. yuk-yuk

Wrong size (diameter) rotor?

All within 10% and seems like a good pressure for a high compression engine.

Glad to here you were unscathed compared to others. Sorry for the verbose methods, I assumed the worst and couldn’t get to the shank, but your method is sound. Is the internal weld nut ok?

How is the damage around you town?

Method 1 I suggest drilling the center of the bolt head to separate the bolt head from the shank or threaded portion of the bolt. The bolt shank with the weld nut will fall out the far side. Hold the bolt from turning with a box end wrench or visegrips and drill a small whole in the center of the bolt head with a #30 / 1/8” bit. Then step up in the dill diameter in stages up to the shank diameter. You will only need to drill a 3/16” or so deep into the bolt head to remove the head of the bolt. If the nut or bolt have thread damage use new hardware. To make repairs to the fastener installation you will need to epoxy the weld nut in place. First thread a new nut onto the shank of the old bolt. This nut will be used to hold the assembly in place while the epoxy cures. Coat the bolt with some RTV silicone, to prevent the epoxy used in the next step from entering the threads, then partially screw the nut on. Let the RTV cure overnight. Clean the weld nut surface on the sheet metal side. Coat the weld side of the nut with a structural epoxy and insert the assembly from the back side. Hold the old bolt with a visegrip pliers to prevent it from spinning and tighten the new nut to secure the assembly. If you have access to the weld nut side, add some epoxy around the weld nut and sheet metal. Be careful with getting epoxy in the threads. Let it cure and remove nut/bolt assembly. The weld nut should be adhered to the sheet metal. Make sure everything is clean and dry before applying the epoxy. Method 2 Another way is to insert a nutsert, if you have access to the tool and nutserts. After drilling an appropriate size hole where the welded nut was, insert a nutsert and squeeze to capture the sheet metal. Link to nutsert tools https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Riveter-Thread-Riveting-Included/dp/B01M59GTH8/ref=sr_1_1/143-4927746-3595602?ie=UTF8&qid=1506377222&sr=8-1&keywords=rivnut+tool+kit This is the on I have it it works very well. https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-1442-Setting/dp/B003TODXQW/ref=sr_1_2/143-4927746-3595602?ie=UTF8&qid=1506377222&sr=8-2&keywords=rivnut+tool+kit

A couple things, did it happen after you filled the car? It could be that fuel dripped into the scupper and out scupper drain. Is it the fuel cap installed improperly and venting fumes. That should show up as failing the internal test and give you a CEL 'Check Engine Light'. lastly it could be the fuel filler neck at the top of the filler port on the inside of the fender. I can't recall if there is a drain hose coming from the scupper drain that should poke out of the belly pan. It could be scupper fuel leaking on the top/inside surface of the belly pan and leaking some distance from the drain. Keith

Perfectly acceptable to charge at two amps. A battery maintainer is best rather than a simple two amp charger.

In some cases manufacturers only populate the connectors with terminals and wire for cars with a specific options. Porsche is or was the exception. My second Porsche (1991 Carrera 964) had wiring and connectors for a rear fog light that isn't or restricted in the USA. I was able to almost plug and play on that modification. My third Porsche (2004 996TT) I'm not sure of having the extra unused wiring. I recall looking at the harness and it looked like a harness from a Boeing Wide Body aircraft. My guess the Twin Turbo which had quite a few options it used most every connectors receivers sockets. Have them look to see if the fuse female spade terminals are in the fuse block. Keith

The wheel diameters means nothing for a spare. You could run a 6" diameter wheel if you could find a tire with the same diameter of the tire as the others. Check the tire diameter OEM tire and the tire diameter of the current tires and see how close you are to the OEM spec'ed tire. If it is off less than an inch I say no problem to run a short distance.

Are you sure the engine coolant is actually getting warmer? Could it be a slowly changing or degrading sender unit or gauge? I would verify that the calibration is good by installing a temporary gauge and sender that you first verify the temporary gauge/sender is good by test running the gauge/sender in boiling water on the stove.

I believe that all the cars imported now a days are 50 state compliant. My car was first sold in Washington State and the Emissions sticker says Fed and Calif.

So is there a requirement to drain the turbos of oil?? Any DIY I've seen (and any reference to shop manual I've read) has included that. I believe that if it has a drain plug and there is access, one should use it. It is a source of burned engine oil that I would think should be changed out. Also you can monitor the health of the bearings during the draining of the turbos. I recently purchased a set of Magnet tipped turbocharger drain plugs on ebay...