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flyingpenguin

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Everything posted by flyingpenguin

  1. Sounds like you had some fun in there. Did you consider replacing variocam ramps while the engine as out?
  2. My variocam actuators have 150k+ miles on them. If the DIY to replace them with a used one is easy for you, I'd try that first before spending money on expensive new ones..
  3. Did you actually remove and inspect the window console switches? No loose connections? Have you tried shorting the clutch pedal switch?
  4. You may want to start with a search here first. You're not the first one having to diagnose this.. Here's a start: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39927-p0410-and-p1411-running-out-of-ideas/
  5. Re-dying carpets? I'd rather buy something fresh. See here: http://lloydmats.com/custom-fit-porsche-floor-mats-matching-interiorcolors/ Cheers Joost
  6. Same here. '99 Boxster and fan is getting progressively louder, especially now that Summer has arrived in full force down in Houston. New fan assembly is about $120 (986.624.0.36.00), but contemplating a refurb first. It'll be at least another month before I will get to this though..
  7. After eliminating AOS as culprit, a potential intake air leak can be caused by faulty vacuum lines (see diagram below). Getting in there with top and front hatch removed is fiddly but doable. I have had success replacing old & brittle vacuum lines with generic vacuum tubing from your favorite auto parts store.
  8. My first thought, even before listening to the sound clip, was water pump or serpentine pulley bearings because recent IMSB upgrade. Noise comes from a bad shaft bearing on the water pump. Not necessarily from the blades. Water leak should not come as surprise either. Replacement on Boxster is relatively easy. Easier than on a 996 as you don't have to get the engine carrier out of the way. Get a new gasket as well. Most kits come with gasket though. Climate in Melbourne can get hot in Summers, so the low temp thermostat seems like a good idea too.
  9. I have a set of cats that came of a 1998 2.5L with less than 30k miles. PM me if interested.
  10. Another possibility is the idle air valve (IAV). They tend to gum up over time and when stuck open can allow air in that results in a strong surge in RPM's. I have successfully taken them apart and cleaned before putting the IAV back in. Well worth the exercise as this is a relatively expensive part, going for well over $200.
  11. Went through this a few weeks ago. Had the battery load tested. Most part stores do this for free, also Walmart. Starting issue was intermittent though, and would act up when warm. Cold starts were without problem. Replaced the starter motor which solved the problem. A rebuilt one from Rockauto is cheap. Took the old one apart, and it's really a matter of the old grease in the gear mechanism caking up. If you're comfortable taking it apart and do a semi-refurb / reconditioning yourself, you could keep the money in your pocket.
  12. Their marketing info is only showing Audi's. http://www.nokiantyres.com/summer-tyres/nokian-zline/ Makes you wonder if they work on Porsches...
  13. http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/
  14. While some have had success swapping out the MAF when they got these codes, normally they are related to either an intake/exhaust air leak or fuel starvation (low fuel pressure or delivery volume). I would very carefully examine intake system and all its hose connections (including the EVAP system) for possible leak points, and I would also look at the exhaust system ahead of the O2 sensors for leaks as well (air intrusion into the exhaust looks just like an intake air leak to the sensors). I would also run a fuel system pressure and delivery test to make sure the fuel pump is working correctly. +1 on JFP's comments re. air leak. Hard starts are usually related to a bad crank position sensor and will hardly ever throw a code. I recently found a cheap BOSCH CPS on amazon.com (Bosch 0261210204 Reference Mark Sensor ). That fixed the hard starts, especially when warm.
  15. Zodman, can you retrieve the bottle of the supposedly "wrong" tranny fluid? Right now you're just guessing what's in there. For all I know it could be ATF or regular motor oil... JP
  16. Mike, Short answer is no. Last year I had a chance to build my Frankenstein engine: Basically a 2.7 with 2.5 internals (only difference on internals is crank, different IMS main chain and pistons). The intake ports are slightly offset between 2.5 and 2.7 engine, so they will not bolt-on as is. Also, the fuel rails are different, so a 2.5 fuel rail will not fit a 2.7 intake manifold. And then there is the issue with the non e-gas throttle body on a 2.7 intake manifold because of the 2 vs. 1 cross pipe. This puts the whole thing at an offset so the engine cover will not fit. Long story short, I gave up and decided to rebuild the original 2.5 engine at 143K miles, which is now running great. Replaced all worn parts, mostly bearing shells and chain ramps, using fresh bolts for crank carrier and heads. Have a 2.7 with 2.5 internals that would run great in a 2000+ Boxster. Been on the prowl for a 2.7 donor car with failed engine. Needs to be cheap!
  17. Curious to see if the compression on all cylinders normalized after AOS replaced.
  18. I have rebuilt and timed 2.5 engine without the 9599 tool. Even Baum says it's optional. Trick is to get proper tension on the chains while adjusting cams with special tool 9612. This can be achieved by turning the crank a few times before locking it back at TDC with tool 9595 (or some other dowel). Engine is now running with zero cam deviation on both banks. New variocam pads may have something to do with that as well. :-)
  19. Lifters in question (for M96 2.5, 2.7 and 3.4 engines, not sure about 3.2's) are less than half price vs.OEM at www.eeuroparts.com last time I looked. Their part# is 11 32 1 748 884. On recent 2.5 rebuild opted to try and re-use existing lifters. Worked well as I am having no issues with stuck lifter after almost 2k miles since rebuild. Trick is to make sure the nipple underneath compresses easily / freely. This indicates good lifter. Also check for excessive scoring up top and along the sides.
  20. Understand inductance is affected by both coil and magnet (the one on the shaft that turns the valve). Have you tried putting original valve in KIA housing? My guess would be that the DME would cope with the different values. Imagine the effect of temp changes on inductance. Not my car, not my fried DME, but with an "unlearned" (reset by disconnecting the battery) DME, I bet you this will work.
  21. The 2.7L engines have a slightly off-set lay-out for the intake ports, so old-style intake manifolds will not fit either.
  22. Problem solved! Turns out the wiring connector for the HAL sensor (cam position) is the same form factor as the one for the Crank Position Sensor. Just the color differs. Of course mine were switched out after complete engine reassembly, so made sure grey is on grey and black on black, Phew..
  23. Sorry for reviving this thread, but am trying to systematically eliminate possible causes why rebuilt 2.5 engine is not starting, even though it is cranking (so can eliminate immobilizer issues). Fuel relay may also be the culprit, but jumping it gives me the required 3.5 bar fuel pressure on the rail. Found a generic thread (for a MINI) stating that pins 1 and 2 (not sure what pin 3 is for) on crank position sensor should read 200 - 500 ohms and 0.2 - 2.0 V AC (when installed and engine cranking). My CPS reads 932 ohm and 2.2 V AC. Out to try a new CPS tomorrow but any insight would be appreciated. Cheers Joost
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