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flyingpenguin

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Everything posted by flyingpenguin

  1. Thanks for the suggestion. Contacted them both and neither have the parts I need. Any other suggestions are welcome. JP
  2. Sound like it's time to order the Durametric with overnight shipping to RO. This will probably cost you 1/10th of 2500€... JP
  3. There are girls that DO get it though... http://www.funnyordie.com/videos/86ba3fa84...rcial-from-mike Haven't gotten mine to reciprocate in a similar fashion (yet). JP
  4. I am missing two small knobs on my 04 Cayenne S. One is the lumbar support adjustment knob for the passenger side, the other the handle to lift up the roll-out screen for the rear passenger side door / window. Pics attached: These two knobs are not sold separately, and spending over $500 for the whole unit they are atatched to seems a little exagerated. Any suggestions where I could look for used parts would be welcome. JP
  5. Kind of like MB part numbers, too. I've sent Jeff an email. Thanks Loren! IF they work I am sure you will like them. Much better bite and less dust vs. stock. I have them on my 04 Cayenne S. JP
  6. Can you be more specific as to the parts that you are describing. Maybe the PET (page 67 in particular) can be of help here. http://login.dealerskins.com/SiteSpecific/...USA_KATALOG.PDF JP
  7. Assuming the two oils to be mixed meet standards, mixing oils initself is not "unsafe". I doubt whether adding 2 qts will do anything significant. Roughly speaking you would end up with a 3.5W 42. Not much of an improvement. I would do a complete oil change. If you are in the colder part of the US, I would recommend you use the 5W50 instead of the 15W50 for the winter months. I am in Texas and only drive the car when its not too cold (ie. over 50F). JP
  8. Yesterday I replaced the serpentine belt and for better access removed the intake plenum and tubes between airfilters and plenum. After I thought I had put everything back together correctly I started the engine. I died right away. Turned out that I forgot the reconnect the electrical connector to the throttle body. After correcting the issue I started the engine again and it ran very rough. Turns out I put back one MAF sensor tube the wrong way. Corrected that and it still ran very rough. Connected the Durametric cable and 5 to 10 fault codes showed up in memory. Cleared them all, restarted the engine and runs like charm again. Moral of the story: -Don't run the engine until you are 120% positive all is installed correctly. -Even though everything is properly installed (mechanically) a bunch of faultcodes in memory will prevent the engine from running properly. -Durametric rocks! JP
  9. This sounds like the hydraulic valve lifters tapping due to oil starvation. I had this happen on my 2000 996 (3.4L) at our first Performance Driving School with LSR PCA back in October of 2008, doing righthanders on the wet skidpad. I replaced the oilpan with the X51 version and have not seen this happen again. At the same time I also switched to M1 15W50, so cannot say for sure which had the most effect remedying the issue. In any case the two changes significantly reduced the drop in oil pressure during fast and prolonged righthanders at Texas World Speedway (eg. turn 2 / 1 going clockwise). I would start with a thicker oil before modding the oilpan. JP
  10. I think any sticky silicone type goo (Permatex?) should work just fine. As long as you have a good seal to prevent water from leaking in. JP
  11. Just did mine on the 2004 S. Partnumber I got from Porsche of North Houston was 955 512 550 06. While I had all the trim pieces out I gave them a good cleaning. What a difference! The hatch opens so much better and the clean trim make it all look showroom new! JP
  12. I looked under the driver seat today as my battery is on its way out (after 5 years I am OK with that). Part# on the battery in there is 3D0915105G. A quick google resulted in this VARTA bulletin http://www.partnernet.varta-automotive.com...che_Cayenne.pdf with these exact dimensions (LxWxH: 353x175x190). Rayovac makes a battery, the SLI93T8, with these dimensions (LxWxH): 354x175x175, so a little lower. Capacity and CCA (cold cranking amps) are similar, so looking at pricing around $129, this looks like a better deal than an original Porsche battery. Any thoughts? JP
  13. Umm... I think it is the other way around - the rears are simple and rarely require a spring compressor. Maybe it was the Texas heat that affected the metal. Or maybe it just affected my brain and my recollection is incorrect. <_< In any case, spring compressors at your FAPS are cheap enough to prevent one from buying them.. :D Joost
  14. Agree. After running the K&N filters for a year, with regular cleaning, I recently had my oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs and they came back with elevated silica (ie. sand!). Needless to say I am running stock filters again. JP
  15. When I changed out the stock suspension for coil-overs on my 996, I remember the fronts came off with out a hitch. I only needed spring compressors for the rears. Not sure how similar 996 and 997 front suspension is though.. JP
  16. Fitment is one thing, but would there be a difference in filter performance between the different part#'s mentioned above? JP
  17. These guys fix it for $99. Should work on a 996 as well. (I have no affiliation) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...sQ5fAccessories Good luck. JP
  18. Re-attaching the tranny after all the work is done is easier with the engine out, but if you have no compelling reason to drop the engine for other work you need to do, you best leave the engine in. A transmission jack is your best friend though when maneuvering underneath the car. JP
  19. Yippie!! It happened to me today. Have CPO until Aug 2010 and was hoping the pipes would crack before it ran out. Flatbedded my 04 CS to Porsche of North Houston and they took care of it free of charge within a few hours. They said it was their 2nd this week.... You gotta love CPO! JP
  20. This story very much sounds like mine. I got my 2000 996 C2 after a thorough PPI (based on the 996 buyer's guide you can find on the web) and have done most work myself. In the end it is all about (preceived) risk and how you deal with it. With experience and confidence that you are able to deal with most or all of the potential trouble that this car can throw at you, the financial downside of a mishap decreases. On the flipside I have a fantastic car that puts a grin on my face everytime I drive it hard (on or off track). In the past I changed cars every 1.5-2 years. Going on alsmost 3 years, this one won't be replaced anytime soon. I am just making it better! JP
  21. FWIW, I used that in my Boxster and it made the shifting much more notchy. I had spoken to Redline on the phone twice to clarify that this was what they recommended. I replaced it with the factory fluid and the shifting was good again. Well, the car is booked in to my local independent in two weeks time and I will be trying the Redline. I will let you all know how I got on. I am using the Redline Heavy Shockproof. No shifting issues when cold, and supposedly much better protection than regular gear oil. I have been using this for over 30K miles now with at least 5K on track and the gear box is holding out very well. JP
  22. If it's not just the paint that's cracked, I would replace them. Any recourse with the seller? There are great deals to be had on aftermarket rims these days. Check the adds in Panorama. Good luck. JP
  23. I have one, and bought it upon recommendation of several friends that had them. Very happy with it. Also a good one to have around in the car after an extended park (eg. at the airport) without a chance to plugin a battery tender. JP
  24. Thanks a lot. That was quick! Looks like the 2010 Cayenne will not be the complete overhaul that sgoodin was expecting / hoping for.. Could that maybe a mid 2010 release of the 2011 model year? JP
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