JFP in PA

When you spend a portion of your life trying to install parts you cannot find into an access point you cannot reach on a car that requires a special tool you don't have, you tend to develop a strong sense of humor 😉

Take the driver's seat out, that will give you a lot more working room to get the dash apart and the upper section out of the car. As for why, a long time ago I learned to accept that fecal matter occurs.

The circled part in your photo above is considered part of the "upper shaft" assembly, which includes the splined shaft that connects to the "lower assembly". Porsche does make the circled u joint available as part number (996-347-023-02) for about $400 "lower shaft assembly" which includes everything down to the u joint that connects to the rack: Installation is flat out a *****, because your need to separate the two segments of the lower shaft assembly, attach the splined shaft and upper u joint to the assembly under the dash, reinstall that, then install the other half from underneath the car onto the splined shaft. And for the life of me, I cannot think of why removing the gas tank could lead to this.

That unit is available from Porsche only as an assembly, for about $1,900 (996-347-007-10, part #1 in the diagram above). To my knowledge, Porsche never made any components of the upper assembly available as parts, just the entire unit. You may be able to find one out of low milage wreck for less. And getting out is a whole lot of fun, but I think you are getting used to that by now 😵

I wouldn't be afraid to do the retrofit, I would just suggest using components that have a huge installed base and are known performers. Anyone's warranty on car parts of any kind only provides you with a replacement of the part, not collateral damage resulting from the first part's failure. And like just about everything else in life, in IMS retrofits you "get what you pay for", so don't try to cheap out, you definitely will not like what happens. 😵

The lower shaft section for a 4WD 996 is 996-347-023-02, retails for around $412 and includes both joints

Here is a photo of the entire column out of the car: The lower section comes out the bottom of the car, the upper section pulls out from inside the car after about half the dash is removed. There are two "universal" joints on the lower section, one right at the rack end, and a second one under the boot. The lower joint uses a pinch bolt to connect to the rack, but working from memory, the upper may be held in by roll pins, but I am not sure on that point. I haven't had one of these apart in a long time. The lower joint is the one that wears the most due to the angle it operates on, and because it is exposed to the elements more than the upper unit.

Welcome to RennTech 92A is a Cayenne model designation WDS is wiring diagram system C32 is a connection pin designation on the BCM BCM is body control module PIWIS/PIWIS 2 are Porsche factory diagnostic's computer systems "Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System" My major concern in this project is that the 1999 model year Boxster's HomeLink was not available as a factory option as none of these model year Boxster's had CAN Bus technology in them, which is how the HomeLink system communicates, and two different vehicle model designations you list both did have it. If that is factual, this system cannot work in your car. The Porsche part #997.618.227.01 is for a 2004 vehicle, which would have CAN Bus. If it were being installed in a vehicle that did have CAN Bus, the PIWIS system would be needed to code the system to make it work properly. And before you ask, a PIWIS system costs $20,000 for the first year's lease. For more information on how the correct Boxster model HomeLink system was added to a later model Boxster that has CAN Bus technology, go here: Good luck.

You need to take that ad with a grain of salt. First of all, the claims that a roller bearing is better are dubious at best. Back when Jake Raby (Flat Six Innovations) and Charles Navarro (LN Engineering) were developing the first retrofit system, they tested (to destruction) a variety of bearing designs in actual engines, including the roller style, which showed no advantages over a ceramic hybrid ball bearing. Second, the warranty for the roller bearing only covers giving you a replacement roller bearing if the first one fails; but at that point your entire engine is junk, so you will have a nice, shiny new paperweight for your desk, not a replacement engine. If you really want to do this right, and only once, you need to take a hard look at the LN IMS Solution. Yes, it is more expensive, but it is the only proven retrofit that will outlive your engine, and can even be reused in another engine, something that no roller or ball bearing retrofit can do. I personally have owned two IMS Solution retrofits and have never regretted using them over other options; they simply work, and to my knowledge none have ever failed.

Hate to be the bearer of more grief, but the steering shaft comes out though the bottom of the car, after you have moved the steering rack you just put back in out of the way. And I have no idea if that lower joint is sold as a part, but the entire assembly is in the neighborhood of $2K 😵

Can't see the attached photos.🤥 OK, they have now appeared!

Fan speed is controlled by a simple resistor in the fan motor circuit at the fan itself, I would start there. If you have acces to the Durametric software, it can trigger the fan speeds as well.

Which probably indicates a problem with the steering angle sensor itself, or communication with the control module. Start by checking fuse 53 (5A) in left dash fuse box. If that is good, try this: STEERING-ANGLE SENSOR CAUTION: The steering-angle sensor must always be initialized 'control lamp on' whenever the battery terminal is disconnected. Diagnostic conditions  Ignition on  Internal level control module function test Possible cause of fault  Initialization/calibration not performed (no display/no or incorrect basic setting/adaptation)  Mechanical fault  The signal received from the control module (level control) via the CAN drive does not correspond to the expected signal (implausible signal)  CAN drive faulty (no signal/communication)  Steering-angle sensor faulty Affected pins Level control module, plug A:  Pin 61 'CAN drive (high)'  Pin 81 'CAN drive (low)' DIAGNOSIS/TROUBLESHOOTING Initializing The steering-angle sensor in Cayenne must be initialized after the following work is carried out:  Whenever the power supply is interrupted (NRA control lamp on).  The steering-angle sensor must be calibrated after all work on the running gear. NOTE: Calibration of the steering-angle sensor must be performed on a measuring platform. First, the level control module must be coded successfully and the steering-angle sensor must be initialized. The steering-angle sensor must be calibrated after work has been carried out on the running gear in the area of the front axle. DIAGNOSIS/TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE 1. Initialize steering-angle sensor  Switch on ignition.  Position wheels straight ahead.  From the straight-ahead position, turn the steering wheel approx. '15°' to the left and '15°' to the right (past the straight-ahead position).  Drive the vehicle straight ahead at a speed of '> 4 km/h for at least 1 second IF DISPLAY OK After successful initialization, the stored fault code is erased from the fault memory and the NRA control lamp goes out. IF NOT OK go to step 2 2. Check steeringangle sensor calibration using 9588 Porsche System Tester II  Running gear set according to Porsche specifications.  Wheels in straight-ahead position and steering wheel horizontal.  Steering wheel may be turned by max. '± 2.0°' from the horizontal position for driving straight ahead. IF DISPLAY OK After successful calibration, the stored fault code is erased from the fault memory. IF NOT OK go to step 3 3. Mechanical fault Examine moving parts for damage and check mobility. IF DISPLAY OK go to step 4 IF NOT OK The steering-angle sensor is integrated into the steering column switch and must be replaced along with this if its functionality is mechanically impaired. 4. Read out steering column switch control module, fault memory and check circuit for short or open circuit  Eliminate faults in accordance with 'Diagnosis/troubleshooting' for steering column switch control module. If electric circuit is OK go to Step 5 IF NOT OK Repair wiring harness circuit. 5. Check CAN drive Localize faults in accordance with CHECKING INSTRUCTIONS/CAN DATABUS If CAN drive is OK go to step 6 IF NOT OK repair wiring harness. 6. Replace steering-angle sensor The steering-angle sensor can only be replaced together with the steering column switch. IF NOT OK go to step 7 7. Replace level control module

Possible bad electrical section of ignition switch.

OK, then let's look at the rest: P0491 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 1 - Insufficient Flow P0492 Secondary Air Injection System, Bank 2 - Insufficient Flow Possible cause of fault - Electrical fault in power supply or line between relay and secondary air injection pump - Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty - Mechanical fault in electrical secondary air valve - Pneumatic secondary air valve faulty/sluggish - Electrical fault in secondary air injection pump - Mechanical fault in secondary air injection pump or secondary air injection pump blocked - Vacuum system leaking - Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or constricted P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible P1341 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 - Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault Camshaft does not reach early or late position ♦ Dirt in system ♦ Solenoid hydraulic valve mechanically blocked ♦ Wiring fault

Welcome to RennTech With a mix of codes this odd, I would clear them all and see what comes back, if anything.

As a general observation, wind noise is one of the least problems; vastly more are tire harmonics and drive line sounds. You could find a local shop that has what is known as an "electronic ear", which is a set of wireless microphones that can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle to try and isolate noise.

A photo would be very helpful.

It is not at all unusual for most of the highway noise in these cars to be related to the tires.

A lot, for a simple reason: All HID headlight cars made in Europe are required to have an automatic headlight leveling system that detects when the car's riding attitude has changed (like if someone is sitting the back seat, or some cargo is in a normally empty rear trunk) and automatically changes the level of the headlight beam's upper cut off to prevent blinding oncoming drivers. All Porsche's with factory installed Litronic headlights have this feature, and it is a common source of headlight related error codes when the system loses one or more of the sensors (there is one at each wheel). The system is routed through the DME and the "on the fly" adjustments are usually subtle enough that the driver does not even notice it during normal driving, other than the headlight beams remain even and at the same level, regardless of what the car is doing at the time. You mentioned you have a code showing, what is that code?

That is the headlight level sensor for the Litronic system: Headlight level sensor @ Sunset Porsche

19" should fit, assuming the tire size is not excessive. As for the speed sensors, they should work fine, but will only be accurate if the 19" wheel/tire combination has the same rolling circumference as the current tires.

I think at this juncture, and photo would be very helpful...............

Unfortunately, Porsche never published internal specs for these engines, primarily because they did not want them serviced in the field. Probably your best potential source is someone like Jake Raby, who along with building some of the most powerful versions of these engines, is running a school to teach proper engine assembly, has published both DVD and printed matter on the subject of engine assembly. A lot of us out here in the real world have had to learn a lot of hard lessons on how to care for these engines through trial and error because there is no technical support available from Porsche; even the dealers do not attempt to do internal engine repairs, they get a car with bad valve guides, the owner gets a factory reman head.

Possible........