JFP in PA

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news................. Crazy doctor terrorizes neighborhood in red sports car that looks suspiciously like a Volkswagen beetle with holes in it's side. You can identify the car by the Grateful Dead sticker in the rear window. Considered armed and dangerous. :help: Couple of people a selling them, 3R Racing ($350 list) for example. Obviously, if you are careful, you can avoid PCCB damage without one, but they do make wheel changes a lot easier for one person if you use one:

Both of these codes can be thrown because the factory radio and /or PCM were removed and the MOST bus was not reset to reflect their absence.

Jeez.............there goes the neighborhood! :eek: We'll be watching for you the six o'clock news.................

For most occasional "DIY" use, Snap-On quality and price may be overkill, but in a shop you can justify owning between $5 and $10K worth of top line torque measuring devices. We use the Hell out of our equipment, and every time I have sent them back for calibration checks, they come back "no adjustment needed".

Not a fan of anything that puts a phone in the driver's view.

JFP, Snap On makes several 3/4 drive torque wrenches. Is there any particular model you like?? You didn't happen to take a look under it's back side? Still wondering how I'm going to jack it's tail up to get jack stands under it. What color was the one you drove and what do you think, not that I can change anything. At this point the specs are locked in. Absolute power corrupts absolutely. :drive: Car was Rhodium Silver Metallic Turbo "S", black leather with white stitching. Very attractive looking combination. I also like the dash layout and smaller sized steering wheel, makes getting in and out a bit easier. I actually had the car up on a lift; still uses side jack points (I have never been one for trying to lift the entire rear end by one jack point). When I had it up in the air is when I noticed the wet sump, which was confirmed by the Porsche zone rep that was driving the car. I prefer the Snap On QD4R400 80-400 ft. lb. unit, used one for years and as with other Snap On's holds its accuracy well: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=640967&group_ID=675227&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog This Snap-On torque wrench is only rated for 400 ft-lbs (542 Nm) whereas the tightening spec for the center lock wheels is 443 ft-lbs (600 Nm). Assume you feel this is adequate until you can get to a Porsche dealer? No, until I get out my QD5R1000, which can take them to 1,000 ft.-lbs. if required................... :D In reality, the difference between 400 and 443 is pretty insignificant, while the price for the QD5R1000 is over $2K, and the QD4R400 is only about $800. You could also jump for a TQR600E which will take you to 600, but at a price as well. You will also find most dealers do not have wrenches going that high either.

I would search around for a small, possibly used unit as these can easily cost a couple grand new.

When I downloaded it, it is a locked pdf file and asks for a password. What am I missing? No idea, it opens as a simple PDF file for me.

The hydraulic tensioners get varnished up or clogged with crap, fresh oil and some miles often cleans them out, tightening the deviation values. They also tend to tighten up when the car is fully warmed up.

Yes, that is normal behavior. The current version does a better job of auto recognizing later models, but not 01 and 02's.

It does not require one, it is a PDF file.

We like them and use them extensively. For a street car, you want DOT approved units; our preference is for Goodridge: DOT approved, great warranty if you ever damage one, retails in $120-130 range but do go on sale from time to time.

Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool: This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap. Thanks for this John, I will do. A couple of my hoses are showing signs of wear I think..... There are some pink stains around the edges. They are squeezy and not brittle and seem ok..... As a rule of thumb, are they shot and need replacing if they leak at the edges? Or should they be removed and cleaned etc every so often to stop leaks? There are worm clips on some of these already but they don't look to be the best of quality..... In the meantime before I start and drain the coolant etc / pressure test, should I replace the worm clips to see if it makes a difference first? (just managed to pick up a used blue point pressure testing tool for peanuts on flea bay - was going to vacuum test too with a uview airlift). Also, this may be a stupid question but does the airlift work with a compressor (I.e. Shop air) that blows rather than sucks ..... And the fact that it blows past the t pipe draws the air out of system creating a vacuum? I have a small compressor for car tyres that goes to 250psi and runs off cig lighter socket. If the above is correct, would this do the job do you think? When I changed the oil a few weeks ago, the clips weren't on that tight (and the expansion tank was slowly going down prior to this date but hasn't since) so I tightened them up.... Could it be that they are cheapies and so have worked themselves loose? Cheers New stainless worm clamps are cheap, doing the job a second time because an old clamp failed just doesn't make economic sense. When we take one apart, it always gets all new clamps. Old clamps tend to start to fail slowly, causing slow and hard to find leaks. Around the shop, we have a well worn adage: "Do it right, and you only do it once." The Uview works off of air flow and pressure across a device that uses the airflow to create vacuum. Just about any decent air compressor can pull a healthy vacuum with a Uview unit.

Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool: This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap.

Correct. I think that no one is saying that all flashes are bad, but unfortunately many seem to have their problems. We have seen more than a few, as have other posters. The warranty issue popped up around the time of the release of the PIWIS II, which is a much more "networked" system than the first version. At that time, Porsche released a memo to dealers specifically addressing the DME software issue, making particular note of the Turbo cars. And with the system now sharing data with Stuttgart, when the new algorithm caught a re-flash, your warranty was now voided world wide, so going to another dealer no longer worked, and future PPI's at resale would catch it as well if a real PIWIS was involved. We had a customer with a leased Turbo that the leasing company refused to take back at the end of the lease because of a voided warranty for a re-flash, which violated the lease agreement. I think the key here is not to scare anyone, but just to make sure they go into entertaining a re-flash with their eyes wide open, as some have been burnt by the experience, in more ways than one.

Silver, No I have NEVER had problem with emissions test. If I did I would just have to connect my flash loader to the OBD port and re-load the stock program. Kevin at UMW did the flash. We went back and forth with data logs to generate my custom programming (as I am at altitude). I also have hybrid turbos along with some other goodies (see my sig link). It is incredibly more linear and the torque curve is fantastic compared to stock. Yes K16s don't lag as much as K24s, but they do have some lag. Not everyone is as lucky on the emissions side. Some, like Silver_TT, bought the car with a re-flash already in it, then moved it to a state with more finicky emissions testing only to run into a brick wall. Car won't pass, new owner does not have the original flash or equipment involved, originator of the re-flash is not exactly helpful, nor is the previous owner. Car is re-re-flashed back to stock at the new owner's expense, and then passes. New owner also notes that they cannot see much if any difference in how the car performs, either on the street or the track. Guys running new cars with an aftermarket flash take their car in for some dealer service item and are promptly told that their warranty in now void due to alterations of the DME software, even though the provider told them the modifications would not be detectable by the PIWIS system. All of which begs a question: exactly what are you gaining for all this folderol and expense? Of course, as their are tuners on top of tuners out there, your mileage may vary..............

You should only be replacing the battery when it is needed, which can be quickly determined by a simple "go/no go" load test that takes less than a min. to run. Most auto parts stores do this for free, and just about any decent shop should be able to do it as well.

The flywheel would be awkwardly heavy during the process of trying to set the seal.

Clean it with lint free wipes and alcohol and you should be fine. During the installation, wear throw away gloves.

Cheap enough, which means quantity sales, this would be a hit for the DIY market. I'd be looking at something in the $25 range. You have to remember that the backyard guys can do this install with a plastic pipe fitting from their local Lowes that sets them back less than $5. Most Porsche specialty shops have already jumped for the factory $500 tool as we can amortize the cost across a large number of jobs already done and yet to come in the door. You could still count on some shop sales for those that do low volume work, or as a back up tool for when multiple cars are apart at the same time. I know I would buy one or two (depending upon the cost) for that reason alone.

Excellent drawing. Delrin or similar nylon would be a good choice as they are tough enough for a tool, but easily machined. The correct installed depth for the PTFE seal is also 13MM from the face of the crankshaft where the flywheel mates to the crank.

Considering what the OEM tool cost, I would say there probably would be interest, depending upon the final cost.

I, for one, am not a big fan of a lot of the aftermarket DME software out there; most of them do not really do much positive on anything short of a ten tenths prepped car, and even then they don't add all that much, particularly in the RPM range you use every day. Some of these systems also cause issues with the cars, including not being able to pass state "enhanced" emissions testing, which is obviously problematic. I think if you spent the $700 to $1,000 on some DE seat time at the track, you would get more out of the car's inherent capabilities.

I install a lot of flywheel and pressure plate bolts which are sourced from Porsche. I have never weighed any of them, lost any sleep about it, or ever had a problem with them, other than their cost. I think you would also find that the pressure plate, disc, and especially the flywheel are well more than a gram out of balance as well.

You are correct, the roll pin on the crank locates the flywheel in the correct orientation for the single gap in the teeth on the back of the flywheel that are read by the crank position sensor to be in the required position so that the DME knows where the crank is in relation to the cams for ignition timing, etc..