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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. 13MM is correct, installed using the correct tool for the updated design PTFE seal. Both the seal and the opening MUST be absolutely clean, not even finger prints or the seal will leak. NO SEALANT of any kind should be used. Removing the flywheel side seal on the oversized IMS bearing is highly recommended. Prior to removing the IMS flange, the engine must be locked at TDC, with the cams also locked in position before removing the hydraulic chain tensioners; then the flange can be removed and the seal extracted. A small dental pick is the ideal tool to get the seal out.
  2. Whenever you encounter electrical issues, the first step should always be to make sure all the basic electrical systems are functional, otherwise you can end up chasing your tail and endlessly replace parts that are actually all right to begin with. 😉
  3. These cars are very sensitive to voltage differences due to either battery or alternator issues, so both need to be in good nick before trying to address unusual codes.
  4. Not surprising. Before even thinking about retiming the cams, you need to address the two small chain wear pads between the cams on this five-chain engine, they wear much faster than the rest of the chain pads and typically are the root cause of the deviation issues.
  5. I would expect to see quieter startups, loose or worn tensioners are the most common cause of startup chain slap. Bigger question is what are the cam deviation values post tensioner updates?
  6. OK, that is a hydraulic chain tensioner, so my original comments apply.
  7. Welcome to RennTech Sounds like the riser heat shield on the exhaust system.
  8. Now I need to ask a couple of questions: There are three hydraulic chain tensioners in these engines, two on the flywheel end, one on the water pump/oil pump end, and that one is located underneath the AC compressor, on the top of the engine. None of them are anywhere near the oil pump, which is almost directly below the water pump. So exactly what did you remove? And did it come from here:
  9. Welcome to RennTech You didn't say what year and model is involved, which is always useful information, or why you removed the tensioner. Realistically, you can reinstall the tensioner you removed, and then go through the cam allocation procedure to see where the cam timing is currently, resetting it if necessary. If you removed more than one tensioner, just remember that they are not all the same and each one must be installed in the correct location, Good luck.
  10. Porsche gas tanks are very durable and positioned in such a manner that they do not see much in the way of physical damage while in service. By far, most tank related issues are where the filler neck assembly meets the tank, the tank venting system, or at the top where the pump access is.
  11. The tank actually sits on a couple of protruding lugs that require you to lift the tank upwards, and then move it slightly forward before it will lower out of the car (page 552 in the link I sent you). The tank tends to take a "set" to these lugs, so you need to give it a shove upwards first. As noted above, everything underneath the tank has to come out, including the water pipes. This is not a fun project..................🤬
  12. This is an absolute bear of a job, as the tank has to come out of the bottom of the car. Literally everything beneath it needs to come out first, then the tank drops down. You might find this helpful: GT2/Turbo gas tank removal Good luck!
  13. Porsche uses a leak down value rather than compression testing, but any Boxster worth its salt would have compression test values north of 200-210 PSIG (throttle blade locked open during the test).
  14. They are a touch high, but not by that much. It could be a testing system accuracy issue, but meanwhile be happy they are high...........
  15. You will not be out of the woods just yet. A lot of things in the car are coded to your existing DME, so swap it out and the steering wheel may work, but other stuff may not, and you will start throwing codes. You are replacing a small problem with a larger one; find a PIWIS and just code the wheel to the car and be done with it. These car's electronics are system, not a bunch of unconnected components; randomly substituting control units is a recipe for a lot of future diagnostics time........
  16. "Tempostat" is Porsche speak for cruise control. Cruise control will not function on a non moving vehicle, but you should still see the green "cruise active" display on the instrument panel (item #2 below):
  17. I would try clearing the code and see if it comes back first. You never clean the sensor itself, quickest way to kill them. Your code is an "aging" code, which means the sensor is probably on its way out and needs replacement. As they are not that expensive, and you would need to remove the old sensor just to try and "clean" it, just replace it.
  18. You are correct, there are only three in the M96. A brain-dead typo on my part! 😜 You may see some improvement, but it will not be several degrees, which is what you are looking for.
  19. Long before I would even consider retiming the cams, I would try your idea of installing new hydraulic tensioners (all three), and then re-reading the deviation values. From experience, I would be willing to bet you are still going to see high values at that point, which means the wear pads still need to be replaced. When the pads are replaced, normally the engines deviation values drop back to much more acceptable ranges, so if you retimed the cams while the pads were still bad, you would be retiming them again after you replaced them. At the milage on your car, those pads are past due to being replaced. 😉
  20. I don't know if we are experiencing a terminology gap here or not, are you planning on replacing the hydraulic chain tensioners, or the chain wear pads between the cams, which are the more common cause of excess deviation values on five chain engines?
  21. A lot of aftermarket reflashes don't really do much to the engine's output HP and torque at lower RPM ranges, everything seems to happen 4,500 RPM and up (look at their published dyno curves). So, if you are blasting down the Mulsanne straight at Le Mans, it would matter; but driving down to the corner to pick up a pizza, not so much.........
  22. I stand corrected! Some engines used a Torx head fastener:
  23. It is supposed to be a metric Allan headed fastener, perhaps you can get a mechanic's inspection mirror up to it and see if it is rounded or has some debris stuck in the Allan keyway.
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