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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Depending upon what the code(s) is/are, that may be an issue as aftermarket OBD II cannot see some codes or misreport them. Check it with what you have.
  2. JFP in PA
    What codes this time?
  3. JFP in PA
    Try 1308
  4. JFP in PA
    As both sides rarely fail at the same time, it is usually either the harness has come loose from the switch, or the switch itself. As Loren's DIY shows, it is a relatively simple project to replace it.
  5. JFP in PA
    While I have no experience with "Torque", the data is mystifying, the engine simply should not do this. That said, I note that all your coolant temps seem quite low for a car equipped with the OEM stat, which does not even begin to open until 186F, and usually is not fully open until around 205-210F. What kinds of temps do you get with this software during normal street driving? If they are as low ( or lower), there is something wrong with the thermostat.
  6. JFP in PA
    The CDR 23 is "coded" so that it matches the MOST fiber optic system in the car; this way the radio cannot be removed and installed into another vehicle. This is done using either the OEM PST II or PIWIS systems: Checking the coding of the CDR23 and the amplifier is correct for the vehicle:1. Using the PST2, in the menu "Control units" select "PCM2/CDR23",2. Select menu item "CDR23" and then "Coding",3. Check whether the designations for the vehicle coding "Type", "Variant" and "Left/Right-hand drive" are correct for the vehicle,4. Select menu item "Amplifier" and then "Coding",5. Check whether the designations for the vehicle coding "Type", "Variant" and "Left/Right-hand drive" are correct for the vehicle. I seriously doubt any aftermarket scanner is going to do this.
  7. JFP in PA
    I would not describe that as "normal". Usually, it takes more power to go faster, which means the engine is pumping out more heat. Even with the increased air flow at speed, both the coolant and the oil tend to get hotter with sustained speed on the track. It is also interesting that the temperature drop is rather sudden when it occurs, which is also counter intuitive. I run a 160 degree stat in my cars, and they do not get cooler the faster they go on the track. So then the question becomes why is it happening? Your thermostat sounds like it is functioning normally. It may be the temp sensor itself, or perhaps a voltage fluctuation causing the gauge to read this way. You might want to try running a data log on the car while at the track to collect the actual system voltage, oil, and coolant temps at the sensors to see if you get different values more inline with expectations.
  8. JFP in PA
    The different frequency should not have effected the system, it should have simply ignored the signal because it was not what it expected. Glad you got it sorted.
  9. JFP in PA
    Depends upon the year, check their features matrix on the web to see if yours is included.
  10. JFP in PA
    Additional question: Did you make sure the sensors you used matched the frequency of the TPMS system? Porsche had a radio frequency change at one point and if the wrong sensor frequency is used, the module cannot see the sensors at all as it watches only one frequency.....
  11. JFP in PA
    OK, it sounds like you need to have it scanned and possibly do a "hard" reset suing the appropriate scan tool.
  12. JFP in PA
    Did you do the selection after driving the vehicle for about 5-10 miles, or while it was still parked?
  13. JFP in PA
    Did you reset the system after changing the sensors?
  14. JFP in PA
    What tool are you scanning the vehicle with?
  15. JFP in PA
    California is a bit unique in this respect as it typically sets the benchmark on emissions and safety requirement's for cars in the US.
  16. JFP in PA
    I ran the new fluid that I just drained out thru a coffee filter and noticed a small amount of clutch contamination and something that looked like latex, more like a thin flake of paint than anything else, but very little metal in the fluid. The fluid has no odder like burnt TF but is much blacker than I would think it should be for a double flush service. The original fluid was black with no odder as well but it had been in there for 135,000 miles. Could this "latex" looking material be Teflon? Is there a Teflon bearing in the 5hp19 and if so it maybe coming apart? I really don't have a break down of what materials are used in the Tip, but there are a lot of different types of seal materials involved.
  17. JFP in PA
    You are totally over analyzing this; Beru or Bosch are the OEM plugs as covered above, Denso Iridium's are an excellent alternative. That comes from literally hundreds of installs, not an "internet opinion". Put a small dab of anti seize on the plug threads, install, and torque to OEM specs. A small dab of dielectric grease inside the plug boot before installing, be sure to correctly tighten the coil packs and connect the wiring harness fully.
  18. JFP in PA
    There will always be a small amount of clutch debris and or metallic flakes in the oil, particularly after that many miles. The "blackness" description concerns me however as any darkness in the oil color should diminish to clearer as the fluid is changed. It sounds like this gearbox is filthy inside, which is not good as dirt is the enemy of the seals on just about everything in the hydraulic system.
  19. JFP in PA
    We did you refill with the Pentosin ATF-1? To my knowledge, the OEM fluid is still an ESSO product ( ATF LT 71141 fluid) and is the only one approved for 1999-2001 Tip transmissions. There are a lot of aftermarket companies claiming to have compatible fluids, but Porsche has remained very specific on both manufacturer's (Esso, Fuchs and Shell) and fluid types for these gearboxes.This was from your post above "You need to be careful about two things: First, the Tip does not like the wrong type of fluid. Specs say that the car should use OEM 999-917-545-00, Esso LT 71141, or Pentosin ATF-1." Should I order the LT71141 and try a 3rd flush? I think 75% of my problem is trying to pin point root cause. Does anyone know of a good rebuilder in the Southeast I can take the transmission or buy a rebuilt if needed? Thanks It is my understanding that the Esso product has a slightly different coefficient of friction than the ATF-1, which is why it was the original (an only) choice back in 2000-2001. If the trans does not respond to using it, then the problem is deep seated enough that the gear box has to come apart.
  20. JFP in PA
    I sincerely hope I'm wrong for your sake, but sorry, but this does not look like "the wrong coolant", it looks like an emulsion mix: Which this definitely is: We have also seen cracked heads that never over heated.
  21. JFP in PA
    While an oil cooler is always a possibility for an intermix issue, one element in this case points in a different direction: Puffs of white smoke from one bank after sitting for a bit. That sounds more like some coolant getting into the combustion chamber on one or more cylinders; I know of no way an oil cooler can fail and do that. As he will be pulling the plugs in that bank to do a leak down anyway, I'd be looking for one or more plug that looks "steam cleaned", which would be a give away for a coolant drip. If this is found, you could bore scope the cylinder for more confirmation, but one or more clean plugs and a leak down should tell you where you are.
  22. JFP in PA
    The OEM service manual set only contains information on how take the mirrors apart, replace the glass, and to test the correct function of the mirror heaters; it has nothing about the motor circuits other than a wiring diagram in the harness section. Hopefully, someone else has gone this route before............
  23. JFP in PA
    Not necessarily, the head may be repairable, but that can only be determined once the problem is isolated and actually visually inspected. Leak down tests determine the percentage of pressure that is being lost at TDC using compressed air and special tool: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester Usually, and depending upon the general condition of the engine (miles, etc.), something in the 10-15% range is considered normal. Often, when a head is cracked, you seen very high leak %, and often get lots of compressed air into the cooling system causing anything from bubbles in the coolant to a water geyser at the surge tank. Similar results can also be had by pressurizing the cooling system with another specialized tool to around 20 PSIG and then see if it hold pressure for 15-30 min. If the cooling system does not hold pressure, it is going somewhere.......... Sorry to hear that the car is a recent acquisition, but this is why having a proper pre purchase inspection done before money changes hands is so important on these expensive vehicles. A good PPI would have caught this.
  24. JFP in PA
    Pathway forward: Get a leak down test run on the bank that the smoke comes from. Pressure test the entire cooling system. This is not going to heal, it had to be properly diagnosed and fixed.
  25. JFP in PA
    First of all, several companies make the cooling system UV dyes, including Airlift (see below), who makes the Porsche vacuum coolant refilling system: Secondly, you definitely have the signs of an intermix issue in that tank. From your description of the exhaust smoke, you may have a cracked head.
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