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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I just love it! Then charge inflated prices, and we are supposed to resort to bribery to gain relief? Yikes!
  2. Not at all surprising. When fuel pumps crap out, slow and almost unperceivable changes in performance are typical; many customers comment that after we changed out their pumps their cars felt “lighter on their feet” or “more responsive”. Not surprising as the both the fuel pressure and delivery volumes dropped off as the pump deteriorated, and then suddenly returned with the installation of a new unit. As these cars are equipped with a fuel system test port, periodically checking the pressure and delivery has caught pumps on the way out before any problems were even noticed.
  3. Just watch out for cheap aftermarket "knock off" axles coming in from over seas. While some are pretty good, many are vastly inferior to the OEM units, not just in the steel, but the CV joints and boots as well. As replacement OEM unit are rather pricey, you can rebuild your current units for low bucks, and you end up with solid quality at a very reasonable price. Another option is to find a local axle rebuilder that will overhaul your units; not a cheap as doing them yourself, but still better than replacing them.
  4. Stories like this are what keep independents in business………… Granted, dealers have higher overhead, but there are limits to how much the slick waiting area, free coffee, and bagels will cover.
  5. I'm not really sure what you are referring to as "an anti drain back collar", but if you are using the OEM design cartridge filter, it would be well worth your while looking at the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211: The filter media has a pore diameter about 30% smaller the the OEM cartridge, and uses molded plastic end caps that totally ecapsulate the filter media rather than being butt glued to treated paper end caps as the OEM's are. A terrific performing filter at about half the price of the OEM filters. If you are using one of the LN spin on adaptors, Wix/NAPA Gold also makes an excellent spin o
  6. The car's computers record the last ten alarm faults, get the car scanned and you will have a list of what is triggering the alarm.
  7. The clutch can be replaced by itself, but you will need a special tool to get it off.
  8. They are totally different cars; the Turbo has “the look” and can lay on gobs of power, but some of it is lost to the Tip. The 4S does not have as much raw power, but is a very refined handler and can still be a blast to drive, plus the PDK is a huge improvement over the Tip. Depends upon where you head is at...........
  9. There is a neutral safety switch that prevents starting the car in gear; the unit is pricey (about $300) and a bit of a bear to get at (very littlle room under the car, plus a cat is in the way). Yours sounds like it is on the way out (not uncommon):
  10. No. The only way to clear the air bag light is with a PIWIS or the Durametric system; no other aftermarket unit will do it.
  11. Problem with cleaning up an intermix is that each one is different, so they are typically quoted on a “time and materials” basis; it could be a couple hundred dollars, or a lot more depending upon how long the car was run in that condition, which makes the clean up much more difficult, plus time and materials consuming………..
  12. We generally replace the serpentine belts whenever we are doing any work that requires releasing it, regardless of how the belt looks. On a mileage basis, we swap them out at around 30K miles, purely as a precautionary measure. The belt is cheap, usually less than $30 retail, and easy to replace. On the other hand, loosing it can strand you, or could end up costing you an engine. On an 8 year old car, I would definitely replace it. I would also suggest carrying the used belt in the boot as a spare, as a replacement can sometimes be hard to find quickly at 2AM...........
  13. Be very careful guys, this is the exact type of behavior that Porsche has frowned upon in the past, and have gone ballistic on the perpetrators of to protect what they see as their intellectual property....................
  14. If you are using a top quality full synthetic oil of an appropriate viscosity, aftermarket additives’ are a total waste of money. Most are short term “band-aid” products that do little if anything good. Some can actually have a negative effect on the oil itself.
  15. The moment the seller starts telling you the limits on how and where you can have the car inspected before buying it, it is time for a hasty exit, stage right......................
  16. Do your self, and your car, an enormous favor: Next oil change, send out a sample of your "relatively new" oil for analysis; then you will understand why this does not work; and why you should be changing out all the oil sooner...............
  17. You should be thinking more in the direction of shortening the intervals. UOA's on oils show that they do not have a prayer for making 15K miles, the oil is sheared to death, the additive package is long dead, the oil is contaminated with all sorts of crud (dirt, fuel, acids, etc.). Using a really good full synthetic (no, I am not going to engage in an oil brand/weight war, so don't even think about it), the best you are going to get before the oil is toast is in the realm of 5-7K miles. Change it more frequently, not less..............
  18. I would not buy the cats both dying at the same time until you fix the air injection system and the car stays free of the associated codes. If the cat codes come back, then you may have a cat issue, but I have never seen both cats go out simultaneously; they don’t crap out all that often one at a time, much less both of them at once. But if the cat codes do return, without the air injection codes, they are probably toast.
  19. If an O2 sensor is ever in question, there are a series of pass/fail electrical test for the sensor and its heater that should be done before replacing them. If the sensor passes, there is nothing wrong with it, the issue lies elsewhere. P0420 and 0430 indicate that the three way cats on both banks are bad, which is very odd to say the least as they rarely die, much less do it in unison. Add in the codes for issues with the secondary air injection system, which will impact the cat’s performance, and I would say they appear connected. The air injections system on these cars is infamous for
  20. Congratulations on spending both time and money on the wrong things. P0420 and 0430 point to three way cat conversion being too low on both cylinder banks; they have nothing to do with the O2 sensors performance. P0410 and 1411 indicate the secondary air injection system failure (P0410 indicates the air injection pump is not triggering, P1411 likewise indicates the secondary air pump is not working properly due to air line restriction, failed change over valve or vacuum leaks). I would be willing to bet all of the codes are related to the secondary air system malfunction. Don’t dread cod
  21. The link Loren provided is for the unit that includes adaptors for everything from lawn tractors and motorcycles to your Porsche; we use the UView tools on literally every water cooled vehicle that comes into the shop.
  22. Like most OEM's Porsche prefers to refill these systems under vacuum to eliminate any air pockets, which can be very problematic in alloy cased and headed engines. Some DIY'ers say that you can do it without vacuum, but the vacuum system leak tests the entire system, refills the system, prevents any retained air, does it all in about 5 min., and does not require any future coolant level top up, so it is hard to argue with. We use vacuum on literally everything that comes through the shop. We premix the Porsche OEM coolant (only) with equal amounts of distilled water (only), then refill the
  23. The flex conenctor has taken a "heat set" to the metal on the throttle body. When we get one of these, patients and a little persuasion in usually all that is required.................
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