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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I have to agree with Logray here, if there was a problem with the system, it would throw codes and cause running issues. And knowing how much replacement components cost, I wouldn't be randomly applying voltage to see what happens unless the system is already acting up and throwing codes, you may not like what happens next.............
  2. P1225-1230 are all "short to ground in wiring" codes for the fuel injectors by cylinder numbers, so I am not convinced it is a fuel pump issue. You can quickly check the fuel pump by following the factory test procedure for correct pressure and delivery volume by connecting a test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail; but the codes are going to require running electrical tests on the injectors and the injection wiring looking for a short to ground somewhere in the system...........
  3. You should also note that Porsche lists the specific amount of system oil to expect to have to replace when working on these systems; each compomponent has an amount of lubricant retained that needs to be accounted for during the recharge.
  4. Your oil system is normally running under a vacuum condition of about five inches of water; it has to be air tight.
  5. Why are you even considering shipping it, sounds to me like a lovely weekend drive down the Pac Coast Highway is in your future..................A trip a I have some very fond memories of........................
  6. After you select the vehicle, you should see a page that has a left panel that displays various control modules, if tire pressure is supported on that vehicle, it will be listed there. Click on the "+" symbol next to "tire pressure", and it should display what functions are available for the vehicle. If tire pressure is not listed for the vehicle you have selected, it is not supported in the software version that you have. On page 8 of the attached manual, you will see the list of modules supported on a 05-09 997, which shows the tire pressure function: http://www.durametric.com/Durametric_Software_Instruction_Manual.pdf Not all control modules, or individual module functions are supported for all models and years, each update seems to add more, but everything is not yet supported.................
  7. Both the inside and outside door opening handles are mechanical; not electronic. We have seen door handles that did not work when the mechanisim broke or became disconnected, but that did not involve the window or mirrors. We got the door open by dropping a wire down into the door alongside the window to trip the release.
  8. The only way to reset the service indicator is either a PIWIS or Durametric system, nothing else works..............
  9. Yes. LN's owner openly and quite willingly shares the data he has with anyone that asks for it.......................
  10. If you are going to use the drain plug, you may as well just pull it and drain the system; you should replace the crush washer every time the plug is loosened, which is why dumping the filter was suggested as an alternative..............
  11. Watch which Pentosin, factory specs the CHF 11S (full synthetic) for these cars, and Pentosin tech literature states “If vehicle specifications state CHF 11.S there is no substitute, however, if vehicle specifications state CHF 7.1, CHF 11.S can be substituted.” Pentosin CHF 7.1 is mineral oil based. Pentosin CHF 202 should only be used in 2005 and later Cayennes. A handy Pentosin PDF application guide: http://pentosin.net/...GUIDE3_Rev1.pdf Most NAPA stores now carry Pentosin products................
  12. Not really, there is too much stuff (baffles and air separators) in the way; there was a recent post where an owner tried to do this, could not get the hose down to the oil level, but did manage to get the hose stuck in the engine, requiring a flat bed to the shop where the sump cover was removed to get the hose out. If the engine is slightly overfilled, change the oil filter which will remove a bit less than a quart from the system. If it is way over filled, just drain it and start over again. In any case, do not run the car with excessive oil in it, it can get sucked backwards thru the AOS and smoke like Hell, or even lead to a hydro lock and a dead engine. Fix it..............
  13. If the PSM system is not cycled, a very tiny amount of old fluid may remain in the control unit, but even that will be flushed out by all the new fluid circulation in the system after a change out and normal usage. Just for a reference point, many dealer's do not cycle the PSM system during a system flush; it simply is not necessary unless air has gotten into the control network, and the amount of oil fluid it extracts is not meaningful. Near 60K would be a worthwhile time frame to do the water pump; which also provides a great opportunity to flush out the old coolant, up date to a 106F thermostat, and add the "S" oil cooler if the car is a base model (best $200 you can spend on these cars).
  14. You can use the Motive system on any Porsche; activation of the ABS/PSM system is only needed if you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control system..................
  15. A TSB does not necessarily compel an OEM to do anything or to repair a car free of charge, unless the system involved was already covered under a warranty, and the warranty on the vehicle is still valid. It is an announcement of a change or update in how something is to be done (e.g.: part # XXX is now superseded by part # YYY), it is not a recall, so the new part will not be installed until the old part needs to be replaced. If the vehicle is out of warranty, all the TSB does is change how they would go about fixing it, but the owner would still have to pay the going service rate plus parts
  16. If it is the pulley, the pulley is one Hell of a lot cheaper than a replacement alternator.......................
  17. I'd also check the alternator to see if it has the de-clutching style pulley, which can also make quite a bit of a racket when it craps out and can leave the alternator unable to put out enough voltage.
  18. I'd wager that the codes are for RKAT values would indicate an overly lean O2 codes for banks 1 & 2 at idle.
  19. They should not be this tight, go back and recheck the rod and crank sizes as well as clean out the threaded areas.
  20. You need to carefully run a thread chaser through all threaded items, followed by a blast for clean compressed air to be sure the threaded areas are totally clean before any assembly is possible. If you have not done this, go back and do it, otherwise you will get all sorts of erroneous torque readings.
  21. Did you run a thread chaser through the rod bolt holes first to be sure they are clean?
  22. Yes, but it begs a question: Are you torquing them dry or lubed? Logray also has a point about checking the big ends for roundness after bench torquing them, as well as checking the crank.
  23. First, I see you used new rod bolts which is good as you should never reuse the rod bolts on these engines, never. Correct specs are 20 nM (15 ft Lb.) + 110 degrees of torque angle.
  24. K&N has long been a proponent of using much larger filtration media pore sizes for supposed improved air flow, but coated with oil to try and get back some of the filtration properties. Only problems are that on the dyno, you gain next to nothing, but are allowing a lot of dirt and other debris by and into the engine. When the filter is cleaned by washing, and then recoated with oil, it is difficult to determine the correct amount of oil to use, and often ends up having the excess oil carried on the airstream into the MAF where it can coat the film and cause no end of issues. Not a recipe for either performance or longevity............ Stay with the stock filter.
  25. As much as others may protest, these filters are a waste of money. No real gain in power or torque, poorer filtration, a decided chance of oiling your MAF; all at a price substantially higher than the stock unit, which is a fine unit to begin with.
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