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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. To fit the larger cross-drilled “S” rotors, you will need different calipers as well as the rotors, as the rotors are both larger in diameter, but are also thicker as well. The base calipers will not work. Fitting the “S” rotors to the rear is even more problematic as you would need to swap out the suspension carrier hubs as well as the rotors and calipers, which is both time consuming and expensive. As for some “online kit” that uses an adaptor under the caliper to space it outward for a larger diameter rotor, well that sounds like a death wish waiting to happen……
  2. Glad to hear it was sorted and nothing particularly serious; when a car is running that poorly, you really do not want to try driving it long distances. You made the correct choice.
  3. Let us know how this comes out; with all the misfires, you are better off to be safe rather than sorry……………
  4. According to the OBD II diagnostics manual the O2 code (P0130) is an electrical fault code, meaning that the sensor is not in the correct voltage range, or is shorted. The sensor and its heater need to be checked for the correct voltage readings, and the wiring harness and connectors need to be looked at and tested for continuity, presence of shorts to ground, and the correct voltages. If the sensor fails the test, it needs to be replaced. If the sensor voltages are correct, and the wiring is OK, the next stop is check the DME, which may have developed a fault. As for driving the car, tha
  5. In general, bad O2 sensors do on cause a car to misfire, which you seem to have on all cylinders on one side of the engine. The O2 sensor code, however, can be the result of this type misfire event.
  6. Without knowing what the codes are, you have no idea if or when it is going to start blinking again. You don't need a PIWIS or Durametric system, any OBD II compliant scanner will tell you exactly what is going on. From your first post, it sounds like the car went into "limp" mode (the DME sets a relatively low engine RPM limit to prevent doing more damage), that usually does not happen without a damned good reason.................... If it were my car, I’d have it scanned before I did anything else. You could very well get a few kilometers down the road, out in the middle of nowhere, and
  7. Mistake #1: Blinking CEL means pull over, shut the car off, and have it towed to the shop; something more serious has occurred. Mistake #2: Never, repeat, never disconnect the battery to clear a blinking CEL; in doing so, you have lost all the critical diagnostic information pointing to what is wrong that was stored in the DME. Get the car towed into a shop, get it scanned. Without the codes, any supposition as to what is wrong is purely a guess....................
  8. Experience has shown that engines that have encountered intermixing and have been run that way for a bit often end up with issues beyond just stopping the water leak. If caught quickly, and not driven, $2-3K is reasonable; unfortunately the damage often goes much further……….
  9. People will ask whatever they think they can get, particularly on flea bay, but the reality is a complete car, including the bum engine, is only worth a few thousand depending upon year, model, equipment, and condition. By the time you get another engine, even from a wreck, get it installed and running, you are going spend that much again, even if you do most of the work. To help put it in perspective, a rebuilt crate engine from Porsche is going to set you back in excess of $10-12 grand (or more), a used engine out of a wreck is probably in the $5 grand range.
  10. The car in question is complete, but does not run, but is capable of "rolling" around. A "roller" is also the equivalent price for a fully running car of the same vintage in similar condition, with the cost to replace the engine deducted from the price.
  11. If you buy this car, discount the price to that of "a roller" (e.g.: a body with no engine) based upon having to pull the engine out and have it pulled apart. Realistically, trying to do this kind of work with the engine still in is going to be a nightmare; plus you need to go through the entire assembly to be sure no other problems (bearings on their way out, or cam lobes worn due to poor lubrication and the effects of coolant on the surfaces, etc.). Be prepared to jump for a lot of money as these engines are anything but cheap to do a simple "refresh" of all the wear items. Realistically
  12. Actually, Ross Tech is very complimentary towards Durametric on their website, noting that Porsche uses a totally different diagnostics computer code system than VW and Audi…………..
  13. Another simple and quick fix, assuming you have access to a welder, is to cut the old head off and tack weld a new head on.
  14. The line is part of the AOS system, which is a common failure point on these cars. Solution is simple: replace the AOS before it totally craps out and causes even more problems........... As for the price they gave you, the parts are a fraction of that and this is a DIY project if you are so inclined to save some money........
  15. The “Enthusiast” version standard price is already a “discount” off the “Pro” version ($287 vs. $675 or higher depending upon configuration). For comparison purposes, Porsche’s PIWIS is around $17,000 for the first year……..
  16. Last time I checked, it was still a "developmental product", e.g.: not fully ready for prime time. The link on their website still goes no where as well. Biggest problem is where you would put an air to oil cooler as these cars are nearly completely covered underneath, and there is very little room up front as well. We have a customer that set up his own using a laminar oil to water cooler from Mocal that seems to work. It connects to one of the engine coolant lines and the power steering lines under the car and is completely hidden behind the stock bottom panels.
  17. Unfortunately, if the pump is toast, you will need to replace it as parts are not available, and you should also flush out the lines and rack as well. Because these steering systems tend to build up heat, lack a cooler, have a rather small reservoir fluid volume, and are located in a spot that is inconvenient for periodic level checks; most of the time pump failures can be related to low fluid levels and/or hammered fluid. At a minimum, the fluid condition and level should be checked at least once a year, and the fluid should be changed as soon as it begins to look or smell bad.
  18. Like most scanner manufacturer’s, Actron literally cannot afford to provide such a database free of charge as the values are vehicle/model/year specific.
  19. You can probably find most of them in either the OEM OBD II diagnsotics manual, or in the OEM service manual set.
  20. Suggest doing a search, including the terms "Boxster, IMS, RMS, problems, engine failures"..............
  21. A common cause for these codes is the change over valve; sometimes they just start to stick, but usually they are not fixable. If you have access to a PIWIS or Durametric system, I think you can actually test the valve without removing it.
  22. Yeah, get the car scanned and post the codes................ It is impossible to even hazard a guess as to what the problem is without the codes.
  23. RUF should be able to help you as well, contact them with the VIN................. info@ruf-automobile.de
  24. What is happening when the display changes from “full charge” to partial charge is sometimes due to normal drain (40-60 mAh), or the Ctek unit is running a test on the battery to see how it is doing, when bringing it back to full charge. The unit may sit on full charge for several days, and then run one of these test cycles, just to see how everything is going. This diagnostic, along with the fact that all Ctek units employ de-sulfating modes in their normal charge profiles (sulfated cells are a major reason batteries die way to early), is why they help keep the battery in excellent conditio
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