JFP in PA

I too find it sad, but as a small business man myself, I also recognize that occasionally businesses have to make fairly unpopular decisions based up circumstances that develop over time. From the very beginning, the DIY segment of the field retrofit for the IMS has been problematic from a support standpoint. I cannot even count the numbers of calls or emails we received from people that ran into trouble (and we are not a retail reseller of the product), and I can assure you that we are not in a position to spend an hour on the phone attempting to help someone 3,000 miles away that has run into trouble. And because the issues typically stem from the fact that the car owner simply did not follow the installation directions, or was ill equipped to even attempt it in the first place, I cannot imagine how LNE or Flat6 could provide detailed technical support when this happened. Sometimes in business what at first seems like a really good idea becomes an overwhelming burden due to unforeseen circumstances; this appears to be one of those situations. And as a business person, you then have to face the facts and change direction before your business becomes swamped by these circumstances.........just ask Nissan about their "Leaf" electric car, or Honda's fuel cell vehicle, both of which are really neat ideas, but are also colossal commercial flops due to "unforeseen circumstances".

OK, your second choice would be 4909; and your third 4999.

Try 4899

The addition of the magnet alone makes it worth the wait.

I would be very circumspect about using a stainless steel plug in an aluminum sump unless you coat it with anti seize every time it is out. Dissimilar metals often have galling or seizure problems, which would require removing the sump cover while the engine is still full of oil; something I have had to do a couple times and can strongly recommend against going there without a good reason (we ended up drilling a drain hole in the sump cover to get the oil out). Before going SS, I would look at LN Engineering's magnetic drain plug, it is hard anodized aluminum (no dissimilar metals issues) to reduce wear on the hex, also uses a larger sized hex tool to spread the torque load over a larger area, and it has an extremely powerful neodymium magnet that will pick up any ferrous debris in the oil: We have had them on customer's cars, as well as my own, for years; show none of the problems the OEM plug has. Great addition to any car.

The clutch lubricant is circulated to a oil/water cooler on the side of the gearbox, the controls are internal to the PDK control computer. The clutch oil pump is inside the bell housing, not unlike an traditional automatic transmission:Changing the clutch oil flow requires activating a valve inside that pump, hence the use of the PIWIS to control it.

To get the alternator out, the long lower mounting bolt needs a good smack to force the rear threaded insert back so it releases. This has been covered before in alternator threads. From your description, you may have disturbed one of the lines running to the coolant surge tank or AOS (difficult to discern without photos). If you have snapped a coolant line, it needs to be replaced as the system runs under nearly 20 PSIG of pressure when the car is hot; taping or patching is not going to hold.

Try 2655Thanks JFP in PA for the quick reply. Unfortunately 2655 did not work. I also tried 2653 and 2657 and they did not work. Do you have any other suggestions.Thanks.Recheck your serial number for the radio, the one you posted decodes to 2655.I just checked it over and everything is correct.CDR-210SN. V5011249R 28962655 does not work. Need help stillThanks.That serial number still yields the same code, 2655; second choice would be 2555, and third choice would be 2565.Just to be safe, how are you obtaining the radio's serial number and entering the code? According to the manufacturer, it should work like this:"CR-210: Press tone, then hold both the '0' & '8' buttons until the radioname appears. Then scroll to PR-VERSION using the tuning arrow.Now you should be able to retrieve the serial number by selectingthe station preset numbers.- CR/CDR-210, enter code by pushing the signal seek switch"

Try 2655Thanks JFP in PA for the quick reply. Unfortunately 2655 did not work. I also tried 2653 and 2657 and they did not work. Do you have any other suggestions.Thanks.Recheck your serial number for the radio, the one you posted decodes to 2655.

Try 2655

On a normally aspirated 996, there is a heat shield cover plate over the coil packs that needs to come out so the packs and plugs can be removed. With the Turbo, there is a lot more stuff in the way due to all the "plumbing" for the turbo which further complicates the issue and takes a lot more time. If they are willing to do it for the time quoted, more power to you. For reference purposes, here are the steps involved to do a normal plug change from a pretty good DIY write up: Spark Plug Removal Prep 1. Jack up car, put stands under the rear jack points. Remove rear wheels. 2. Remove taillight assembly: 2 phillips screws. 3. Remove bumperettes: remove access plug, loosen size 40 torx from below 2 turns, pivots upward 4. Remove rear only wheel well liner: several torx and 2 plastic 10mm nuts (easy to strip when reinstalling) 5. Remove rear bumper cover: 4 phillips on top, 2 phillips on bottom, 4 torx on bottom, 2 torx in the wheel well. Its easy to scratch when removed. Slide off with a helper so you don't scratch the paint. Unplug the wires. 6. Remove center rear heat shield: 3 10 mm bolts, 2 screws. Using compressed air, if available, thoroughly blow all the dirt and debris off the intercoolers, engine, wheel well, brakes, etc. Remove the intercooler with brackets 7. Disconnect the big hoses where they plug into the intercooler. Pull/pry with a screwdriver, the center of the hose retaining wire clips back far enough to release the hoses. Pull/wiggle the hoses out of the intercooler. It may be easier to remove the upper 2 hoses completely. Mark the inner and outer ends of the upper hoses or note where the arrows are to aid reassembly. Inspect the hose O-rings. The manual says to replace the O-rings, but I don't know if that's really necessary. 8. On each side remove 5 13 mm nuts/bolts holding on the intercooler brackets. Remove bottom 2 sheetmetal nuts attaching the bottom of the side heat shields. Pull the heat shield off the studs. Slide the intercooler assembly forward about an inch then remove it. 9. Bend the shields upward. Leave top heatshield attachment nuts on. Remove the coils 10. Remove the heat shield attached to the head. Unclip the O2 sensor wires from it and let the shield slide down out of the way. 11. Driver side remove the waste gate vac hose and the pressure sensor(?) hose next to it. 12. Remove all the coil retaining allen head bolts. 13. Unclip all 6 coil wires. (I couldn't get the coils back on with the wires attached) 14. Remove the coils, it may be a little difficult to maneuver them out. 15. Using long extensions remove the spark plugs. Visually inspect the new plugs prior to installation. Gap is about .8 mm (.032"), NOT 1.6 mm as the shop manual states. I wouldn't try to adjust them if the gap looks reasonably close. Mine were about .025 -.032". I had a new damaged plug that had the side electrode bent. Visually inspect the coils. Pull off the rubber boots and look for any cracks or carbon tracking. Try to keep the rubber boots very clean to avoid carbon tracking. Put a small amount of anti-seize on the inner 1/2 of the spark plug threads. You don't want any grease or fingerprints on the ceramic, rubber boots, or in the spark plug recess in the head. Spark Plug Installation Install the plugs 1. Install the plugs. They should easily screw in by hand. Torque to 22 ftlb. (29.8 Nm) 2. Put the coils in place. Attach the coil wires prior to installing the coil bolts. Make sure the wires 'click' into the coils before you pull the little rubber boots down. Space is limited. Install the coil bolts with a SMALL amount of anti-seize. Torque to 7 ftlbs. (9.6 Nm) 3. Install the heat shield to the head with a little anti-seize. Torque to 7 ftlbs. (9.6 Nm) You may need to use a u-joint socket on 1 of the bolts. Clip the O2 sensor wires and vac hoses back on to the heat shields. Reinstall the 2 vac hoses on the driver side. Check for any loose/disconnected wires or vacuum hoses. 4. Bend the side heat shields back down. Intercooler install 5. Check that the intercooler hose retaining wire clips are fully in position at the bottom of their grooves. Blow out the intercooler inside and out with compressed air. Make sure the intercooler hose inlet and outlet sealing surfaces are clean and smooth. 6. Carefully reposition the intercooler assembly on the car. Be careful not to scratch the paint. Push it rearward and install the nuts/bolts. Torque to 17 ftlb. (23 Nm) Tighten the side heat shield sheet metal nuts. Install the intercooler hoses. The hose ends should audibly click into place. 7. Reinstall the center rear heat shield. 8. With a helper reinstall the bumper cover. Remember to reconnect the wire. Install the screws loosely. Before you tighten it down position the wheel well liner and loosely install it's screws. Push the bumper cover and wheel well liner into position and tighten. (It was difficult to get the wheel well liner into position with the bumper cover fully tightened.) Do not overtighten the plastic nuts and strip the threads. 9. Reinstall the bumperettes. Engage the top groove and pivot them down, retighten the bolt. 10. Reinstall the taillight assembly. 11. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque to 96 ftlb. (130 Nm). Book quoted time for above with leak down: 4 hours. Some dealers actually prefer to drop the engine down to do this rather than move everything in the way.

I too cringe at the prospect of lifting the car by the engine, the jacking points are there for a reason.............

Ideally, the engine should have heat in it, but from a practical stand point, with the amount time required to get the car ready to do a leak down, it will be warm at best.

Thanks JFP. Are you an experienced tech? Just trying to get a feel for tech experience. I am the owner of an independent shop.

Knowing what this job takes, I would ask them to reaffirm their quote and pricing so they can't come back on you later. On the Turbo, there is simply too much stuff in the way to get this done in 1.5 hours.........

Loren is correct, plus they are a common flea bay and swap meet item as well. There are also a couple of fabricators that make smaller diameter units the they claim will clear the aero kits, but I have not actually tried them.

The time quote is a fair estimate, depending upon which model the car; if yours is a Turbo, four hours is correct.

It is not really that tough, but it is located in very tight confines, particularly with a Tiptronic gearbox.

Actually, some of us do know you, and are quite familiar with what happened to your thread on the 986 Forum, and why it happened. Stay within the published RennTech.org forum guidelines and you will not have a problem here, but a similar thread here will probably net you the same results.............

"Faster than a speeding bullet"............well, at least some of the time anyway :eek:

From the codes and the noise, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak; usual suspects are the AOS, oil filler line, etc. I would start with the AOS unit as they are known culprits. The P0740 is a Tiptronic issue and should not be related to the other codes

LN Engineering has engaged a professional fulfillment firm to handle all their orders.

I would also be cautious and follow LN's instructions on what to put on the bottom of the nut (LocTite 574) and the center bolt threads (Loctite "green" wicking) to prevent oil seepage.

Be careful about which lights you use for daytime running lights; there are some limits which lamps can be used and which cannot (e.g.: parking or low beam head lamps are OK), so check before doing the wiring only to find the vehicle will not pass inspection.

Odds and evens - same torque :huh: ??There is only one lug torque spec value................96 ft. lb.