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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Only problem is that this type of test will not find issues like the fuel filter problem described earlier, or a pressure regulator that is on its way out intermittently under load conditions. Granted, if the car cannot pass the static test, there is a problem; but some cars pass the manual test just fine, but then crap out under load, which requires testing it dynamically to spot it...............
  2. Keeping the temporary test rig outside the car is purely for safety and to reduce any potential for having to get the smell of gas out of a customer's car. At 120Bar, a leak that would be a small drip on the 50-60 PSIG system turns into a torrent that can literally slice through flesh in a heartbeat; really not anything to be messing with, even if you ignore the fire potential. We are looking at obtaining an suitable electronic pressure transducer to temporarily mount on the engine that would eliminate the need for a line and gauge.
  3. Depends upon what we are looking at; sometimes the fuel pressure and delivery is so low at an idle, trying to run it at higher revs becomes a moot point. Other times the idle pressure looks good, but bringing up the RPM’s (free revs) shows a sudden fall off, indicative of a fuel pump or regulator issue. That said, other times we have rigged up cars to take on a road test with the fuel pressure gauge taped to a window for observation purposes while pushing the car to look for a sudden drop off in pressure. We once had an early Boxster come back with a poor performance complaint shortly after a major service; turns out the new fuel filter was bad (internal obstruction caused by loose components) that only showed up with the jury-rigged pressure test setup and a “run it hard” road test. At idle or free revs, it looked fine. We have seen similar things when the fuel pressure regulator gets intermittently problematic. Sometimes you just have resort to “man invents tool” to figure out what to try next……….. I really can’t wait to have to do this kind of testing on one of the newer DFI cars running big time fuel pressure; the test rig line will have to be braided stainless to deal with the pressures (120 bar or about 1,740 PSIG) involved instead of the 35-60 PSIG of the early cars………..
  4. These engines are timed using a special tool the holds the cams in the correct positions using the slots on the end while the engine is locked at TDC. Do a search, been covered before..................
  5. Typically, the code thrown when the pump cannot supply enough fuel is for an overly lean condition (O2 sensors) or a general misfire (P0300-0306). I would suggest scanning the DME and see if any "pending" codes of that nature show (sometimes the pump is just bad enough to only lean out at very high RPM's, but then the fuel trims drop back in range when you take your foot out of the engine, leaving only the pending codes rather than active ones because the condition did not persist long enough). It would also be very easy to attach a pressure test gauge to the test port on the fuel rail and check both the pressure and delivery rates, only takes about 15 min. shop time.
  6. Suggest looking at the fuel system; M96/97's that have fuel delivery volume or pump pressure issues act this way, but only under load. You could just simply be running out of fuel at higher revs...............
  7. Just be aware that disabling the airbags and driving the car will most likely result in a MIL light and code, which requires either the PIWIS or Durametric software to clear.................. We like to let the car sit with the battery disconnected for 5 min. before going near the airbags.
  8. There is very little difference in sound output between the base 2000 muffler and the S unit; the only real difference is the tips. You would be better off looking for a used PSE, which has a better note without the drone of aftermarket stuff. As for using 911 headers on a Boxster, unless you have a lot of time on your hands, and a good MIG/TIG welder, I would suggest against it. The engine in a 911 is facing the other way around (the engine is behind the gearbox in a 911 rather than in front of it as it is in a Boxster), so one Hell of alot of fabrication would be required to get this working.
  9. I don't know where you got your price quote, but you can buy the Stant pressure tester (STA 12270) for $72.38 on Amazon, or $69.78 at ToolTopia. As for Porsche adaptors, there are two; 12016 will test the vehicle and sells for about $40; 12017 will test the cooling system cap, and sells for about $10. I have two of the Stant testers, and an entire case full of adaptors to fit just about anything, and I didn't pay anywhere near $500 for everything.......................
  10. That is not necessarily correct, the air bags can deploy when the light is on; the light is just an indication of a fault and does not necessarily disable the entire system. The service manual has a procedure to follow whenever working on, or around, the air bags. It starts with disconnecting the battery for a period, and suggests wearing a grounding strap to prevent building up a static charge and setting the system off. You may want to do a search to get all the info on how to safely do this. Be careful, at close range and airbag can and will seriously injure or even kill.
  11. The LN adaptor actually keeps the filter slightly higher up than the stock set up, so ground clearance is not an issue. When installing, be sure to lube the inside and outside o-rings with oil, and torque to spec. When putting on a new spin on filter, be sure to lightly oil the gasket and only tighten the filter 1/2 turn past hand tight (we regularly get question about why the adaptor is coming off with the filter, and it inevitably is because no lube on the gasket and then King Kong tighten it.........). Installed properly, the filter comes off without the adaptor.
  12. Do a search, this has been discussed about a zillion times. Connect a maintainer to the lighter socket, connect a battery to the fuse panel, use the emergency cable under the front..................
  13. The OEM coolant has a very good life, we have tested factory fills after 7 and 8 years for clarity, pH, freeze points, etc.; and they still looked good. Biggest issue is contamination; the coolant starts to go south if almost anything gets into the system, which is why Porsche recommends only using distilled water with the coolant. Quite often, this shows up as cloudiness in the mixture, which also starts to shift freeze point and pH levels as the additive package dies off. Normally, we recommend renewing the coolant anytime the cooling system has to be opened up for service (water pump, thermostat, etc.). At that time, we use only the OEM concentrate and pre mix it with distilled water (about a buck a gallon at the supermarket) to assure no metal or ionic contamination. This practice has shown very long run life, again as long as nothing gets into the system. Realistically, after five or six years, you will most likely be doing some cooling system service such as the water pump (known for their issues), so I would do it then. If you have had no problems, I would keep an eye on the system test conditions and plan on doing the change out in the same five to six year time frame.
  14. The relay is in the panel above the fuses in the left footwell, upper row, second from the left. You can pull the relay and jumper terminals 3 and 5 in the relay panel to simulate an operating relay (pump will be on all the time). The relay itself is a $10-12 item at retail, so I wouldn't put too much time into it.............
  15. Relays fail under these conditions due to the excessive load on them when the pump starts to go in and out of cavitations as the fuel runs out; so no, it is not a coincidence. Pulling the battery cable will clear the P1502 code, as will any scanner.
  16. Relays sometimes fail by going intermittant (sometimes work, sometimes do not). When this happens, the fuel pressure starts jumping all over the place.
  17. What year and model is the car? P1502 it a throttle jacking code on some years, and a fuel pump relay code on other years..............
  18. You just discovered why you should not buy stuff like water pumps based upon price alone; you typically get what you paid for…… Rather than fuss with the knock off pump, I would either return it, or throw it in the trash. We have never had any luck with aftermarket water pumps on these cars, and the ones with metal impellers can chew the Hell out of your engine case when they fail, filling the cooling system with metal filings. Not a good thing on an engine with a lot of very small water passages……….. Buy an OEM unit.
  19. I would also not hesitate to replace the RMS and IMS while the car is apart. I would also plan on at least a new clutch and throw out bearing while you are at it; with those miles it is probably close to needing it anyway. I'd also check the flywheel for the proper amount of "twist" for the same reason; you really do not want to have to go back in there any time soon, so do it correctly the first time.
  20. I cannot say that I have ever encountered a coil pack making a sound.
  21. You might be surprised, we have had factory cars come in with this type of complaint and found O2 sensors that were either finger tight, or partially unscrewed. A quick tightening was all that was required to silence the noise.
  22. If your fuel pump ever does decide to start whistling, you will be in trouble because they simply do not do that. Are you sure that you properly torqued the new o2 sensors when you installed them? Very small exhaust leaks can whistle. I'd put the car up in the air and cold start it while looking and listening where you think it is coming from..........
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