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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. This can also be caused by a bad coolant level sensor, which is located on the bottom of the coolant tank.
  2. The 2005's are hard to read in terms of which ones have the larger diameter bearings and which ones don't. I have seen early cars (March production) with the big bearing, and later cars (June) that did not. Only way to know for sure is to pull the gearbox and flywheel and then look............
  3. That would work if the tank was one of the early ones without a connection, but if the connection available on the tank, it would be simpler to just connect it there.
  4. From your other message as well: "Two Porsche dealers, and the shown TSB 1001, seem to say if you change the oil cooler to one of those new tiny ones, that you have to change all of this other stuff, add adapters etc. It is a mess. The simplest thing is to just replace the original part and drive away. There definitely is some connection between the oil pump in the front, the oil cooler on top , and the changes that would have to be made to the expansion tank in the boot. Changing the cooler will affect the velocities, the passage lengths, and the volumes. In any case, there must
  5. You can have both the tank and the cap pressure tested (cheap and only takes 15 min.), the caps tend to fail more frequently than the tanks, but the tank is not immune to failure. If either, or both fail the test, they should be replaced (current cap ends in 04). As for the coolant, Porsche OEM coolant is pretty good stuff from both a protection and longevity perspective, but it is not overly compatible with some aftermarket brands, sometimes leading to gelation and one Hell of a mess to clean out. As you note that you have been diluting the original 50/50 coolant/distilled water mix (you
  6. Pre filling the oil filter, OEM style canister or spin on, is always a good idea, shortens the time until the engine first develops oil flow and pressure on start up.
  7. You seem to like posting responses as comments to my profile, which are unfortunately being truncated so I cannot see everything you write. Either post here on the forum or send me a PM so I can read everything you have to say. Thanks.
  8. I really don’t see the relevance to this tread as the oil pump is on the other end of the engine from the oil cooler…………….
  9. I think a couple of things changed; originally, the early five chain motors were +/- 4 degrees, and were pretty good at meeting and holding the range. The switch to the three chain design and the later VarioCam Plus seems to cause more cam deviation, so the value was moved. In reality, early or late motors seem to do just fine as long as they stay within the +/- 6 range, so a lot of dealers and shops started using that as the “default” range for everything.
  10. The OEM style filter is symmetrical and can go in either way.
  11. As far as I know, all M96/97 engines are +/- 6 degrees.
  12. Low voltage may or may not throw a code. Sometimes a dying alternator will trigger ABS and PSM MIL’s, but not always. I am also not comfortable with any voltage readings below 14V at idle. I’d suggest load testing both the battery and alternator; the sequence only last a couple of min., but will confirm the viability of both units.
  13. Normally, we like to run a profile on the Durametric prior and post installation; just to verify that the cams are were they belong. The car in question is a five chain motor, which is more tolerant of IMS bearing install screw ups, but not immune. Logray is on the money as far as looking at the cams, but if you have access to a Durametric, I would hook it up and look at the cam deviation values, both of which should be rock steady and idle and +/- 6 degrees. The actual values are always an odd set of numbers, but they need to be in that +/- 6 degree range. The Durametric is a much quicke
  14. If you find the three VIN’s limiting, look at Durametric’s Pro version; it has no limits. For general purposes, we use Actron’s OBDII units, which can read and clear most codes on just about any brand, even on Porsche’s, with the exception of what PCNA call “protected code areas” such as the PSM/PASM, ABS, Airbags, and even the service alert. For those, you either need a Durametric system (we use the Pro version), or a PIWIS. We looked into acquiring a PIWIS, but when we found out that the first years lease was in the $17K range, we opted to add another bay and lift to the shop instead. Th
  15. As could the reflash; I'd take that back to stock as well to see what happens....................
  16. Several possibles: Level sensor leak, pressure sensor leak, oil cooler leak, etc. Best bet is to clean off the engine, then look for where it starts.......
  17. We have never seen this type of repair last either. You also need to consider where the tank is cracked; sometimes it is necessary to remove the tank to see or attempt to repair the crack, making a temporary repair a little ridiculous..........
  18. Do an online search yourself, you can get a new one here, online, for about $60-70:
  19. +1 That is the center hub of the clutch type pulley, which can and do fail as you described. You will need the special tool, a new pulley, and belt, and you will be back in business....
  20. I'm not sure about there being a common junction for the wiring, as the signal and heater wiring serve different purposes I would expect not; but there are diagnostics to check for the sensor signal and heater voltage using a multimeter. I'd be running them before spending more money on sensors....
  21. I seriously doubt that replacing the O2 sensors will fix this; two of the codes (0154 and 1119) are telling you that there may be a wiring or connector issue in the O2 circuits: P0154 is the code for the interruption of the signal from the senor ahead of the 3 way cat on bank 4-6. P1119 is the code for a non functioning sensor heater.
  22. All Porsche's have had lighters that are "hot" at all times for many years specifically to accommodate using a battery maintainer connected there. If yours is not hot, check the fuse.
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