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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    That is the correct sensor; Bank 1 is cylinders 1 to 3. Which is on the left side 996. The code is the sensor after the cat (muffler side). As the sensor is new, it should not be showing signs of aging, which is what the code is for. I would ask the following: Who's sensor is it (aftermarket or OEM)? Does it have a plug on it like the OEM sensor would, or is it "hardwired"? I would also suggest unplugging the sensor and cleaning the plug ends (if they are still there) with contact cleaner, reconnecting the sensor and clearing the code to see if comes back. In addition, I would get the car scanned (Durametric software is fine)to get a record of how the O2 sensors before and after the cat are responding, you may have an early indication of TWC cat failure. A good TWC would scan entirely different than a one that is failing:
  2. JFP in PA
    Which sensor was replaced as the code is specific to a sensor location.
  3. JFP in PA
    Couple currently on flea bay for $25 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-PORSCHE-911-997-CARRERA-TURBO-WINDSHIELD-WASHER-SPRAY-NOZZLE-/370612860856)
  4. JFP in PA
    Logray is correct, but while you do not need to drain the entire system, if the mix in the car is more than a couple years old, I would dump it all and refresh the system. While called "lifetime" coolant, the OEM coolant (which is very good) does eventually break down and need replacing.
  5. JFP in PA
    The Uview "basic" will do OK, but with the top of the line unit being so much better made (all brass instead of molded plastics), coming with adaptors to fit just about anything with a cooling system, and only costing a few more bucks, I'd go for the better unit. We have had a couple of the brass units for years, great product.
  6. JFP in PA
    Try 5768
  7. JFP in PA
    This is fully covered, with photos, in the Bentley manual if you have access to one........
  8. JFP in PA
    Support the engine, detach rear stabilizer bar, remove the retaining straps on the cats, remove the engine carrier bolts, swing the engine carrier rearward, have at the pump. Sometimes helps if the engine is lowered slightly.
  9. JFP in PA
    Nano gains= somewhat less than a RCH.................
  10. JFP in PA
    I think you will find that most, if not all dealers, simply do not want the liability exposure for turning it off.
  11. JFP in PA
    Not sure I like this idea; instead of automatically disconnecting the battery and losing everything from radio presets to the DME's learned information, why not just use a maintainer (or even a solar maintainer, that does not require line power)? I don't know the current standards of your MOT, but over here if the battery is disconnected just before inspection, the car won't pass because the DME will report several key emissions parameters as "not ready" because the car has to go through multiple driving cycles before the DME will reset to "ready".
  12. JFP in PA
    If the light came on while the seat belt was in use, try spraying some contact cleaner into the buckle (car not running, towel under the buckle to catch overspray). Some times these issues are just crud built up on the contacts in the buckles and the spray is a quick and lasting fix.
  13. JFP in PA
    I would say it looks "OK"; we prefer oils with A3, B3, B4 ACEA ratings, and published ZDDP levels above 1000PPM, and preferably above 1200PPM. While this oil holds two of the three ACEA ratings, which is good, I found published data on what levels of ZDDP are involved in their "race" and "street" oils: "The Nanodrive race oils contain approximately 1100ppm of ZDDP. This compares to as little as 600ppm for street oils." (http://performanceracingoils.com/faqs-ezp-2.html) So, if your product selection is their "race" oil, the ZDDP level is very good.
  14. JFP in PA
    Those are just basic physical properties; usually they list things like ZDDP levels is a separate data sheet, but as I mentioned, they are getting very elusive on ZDDP. I like that it has ACEA A3/B4.
  15. JFP in PA
    Most "low rolling resistance" tires also make the car handle like it was on wooden wheels, which is why you don't see this "feature" on performance tires............
  16. JFP in PA
    Most OEM's have been pretty tricky in setting up various "Federal Nanny" mandated safety features in these cars such as the TPMS and seat belt chimes. Quite often, some of these simply cannot be altered without an aftermarket re-flash of the computer, or (if possible) disabling the feature also disables some other major system, which is unacceptable to the car's owner. This does two things, the dealer network has "plausible deniability" when asked to disable mandated features, and it drives the aftermarket nuts when they try to do what the dealers will not.............
  17. JFP in PA
    That is an oil that I can honestly say I know nothing about. Do you have any data on base stock group or ZDDP levels?
  18. JFP in PA
    As with most things Porsche, the change over from dual row to single was not a clean one; cars in the 2000-2001 need to be checked to see which one is actually in the car; although most (if not all) 2001's are single row.While the base polymer type is important to several factors in synthetic oils, and even more critical one is ZDDP levels. These engines absolutely hate the newer "low SAPS" oils (read reformulation away from ZDDP to titanium salts to protect the cats longer), leading to premature wear on several critical components such as the cam followers. So while looking for Group IV-V base stocks, also be critical of the ZDDP levels. To give you some idea of how this has changed, try researching the actual starting ZDDP levels in an oil, many manufacturers no longer even publish this data. Usually, you need to be looking at "boutique" oils like Joe Gibbs Racing or Motul for products with levels above 1000 PPM.
  19. JFP in PA
    With both those models costing way more than the Durametric enthusiast version, the choice would seem obvious.............. That's very true but you said that only the PIWIS or Durametric would clear it as nothing else would work which isn't true. I was offer a different choice that maybe a local garage might have if he was shopping around. I am not challenging that point as I was unaware of anything other than the PIWIS or Durametric system being able to do it. Last time we looked at Launch, we found very limited Porsche DME or systems capability and relatively expensive hardware; they have apparently been listening and doing their homework. I have also read online that some VW software systems are capable of it as well, only to be subsequently told by the company that does the software that it cannot. Live and learn............
  20. JFP in PA
    Well I hope if it's to big in diameter, it must be bigger and hopefully stronger,than the stock from the beginning?RegardsStefanOne would hope, but they still fail, plus they limit the options open to the owners.
  21. JFP in PA
    With both those models costing way more than the Durametric enthusiast version, the choice would seem obvious..............
  22. JFP in PA
    A factory replacement engine will have all of the updates as of its date of manufacture, but while Porsche did find a fix for the RMS leaks (new design seal), the IMS issue persisted until they came out with the 9A1 engine which does not use the intermediate shaft. Because your engine was replaced in 2011, it will be carrying the last design IMS bearing, which is still the subject of reported failures, and cannot be easily replaced with the stronger aftermarket bearings because it is too large in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the engine cases.
  23. JFP in PA
    Jake posted on another site that his IT people say the site is clean and they are looking into why Google search is doing this.
  24. JFP in PA
    Which "Launch" models do the reset? They seem to have so many different units at pricing all over the map.
  25. JFP in PA
    By far, the best resource for torque specs are the factory manuals. Second best would be the Bentley manual. The sump bolts should be torqued to 7.5 ft. lb. (I prefer to use an inch pound wrench for accuracy on such low torque bolts, and tighten to 90 inch pounds).
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