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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Skyler, over on the old PPBB did a good step by step for the 986 (with photos), should be similar: 986 front bumper removal
  2. Actually, I'd go the other way around; your water pump may have came apart (on the track, if memory serves), and the bits blocked some of the water passages to your head and more importantly, the oil cooler area, and that is probably what started the fatal chain of events leading to your rod failure. Not that uncommon, this is why Jake is suggesting changing out the water pump every three years, even if it is working fine........... Getting all the bits out is a major pain, probably will require total disassembly unless you are very lucky.
  3. Considering that 10W-X oils were until recently recommended for use in the arctic, I have never understood the need for 0W-anything, particularly in temperate climates. First, based upon years of UoA’s, I have no faith in Mobil 1 products. It has been all downhill since Exxon took over. I would suggest looking at Castrol Syntec 10W-40, it is what we use.
  4. Because of the war the OEM harness is routed and mounted in the car (wires often combine with other non audio wiring while passing thru the body), I seriously doubt that you are going to be able to simply attach one wire to another and pull them through the car. Realistically, you are going to have to either pull sections of the interior out to trace the existing system, or run all new, by passing and leaving the OEM stuff in place. All depends upon how anal you want to be about wiring.
  5. Do a search; there is a valve in the filler neck that is obviously not opening, and this has been covered multiple times.............
  6. Because of how, and where, the chain guide paddles are located (they are what the tensioners are pushing against), this requires some significant effort and specilized tooling (cam allocation related). Not a "backyard DIY" type of project, which is why most try different oils first.................
  7. First, all "flat six" engines are prone to the occasional puff of smoke on a cold start, this is normal. If the smoke always occurs on start, or is particularly heavy, you may have another issue such as the AoS going south on you. If it is the AoS, it needs to be addressed before it totally craps out and hydraulics the engine, which is both a real possibility and always fatal......
  8. In general, if your IMS is on the way out, there should be evidence of it in the oil filter as a specific type of debris. On the M96, there are multiple chain tensioners that can go off, causing the "rattle" type of complaints; and in some cases, the tensioner issue can be resolved by switching to an oil with better film strength (e.g.: get rid of the 0W-40 Mobil 1). There are also several chain guide "paddles" (number dependant upon if the engine is a pre '03 five chain motor rather than the later three chain version) that wear and can also lead to a similar sound. If the guides are gone, replacing them is the solution; different oil is not going to help.
  9. Suggest the following: Check the voltage output of the alternator, should be well above 14V at an idle..... Fully charge and load test the battery; we have seen more than one "new" battery with problems.
  10. Does a couple of things; in US cars, you have to depress the clutch to start the car. The switch senses that and allows the car to start. The switch also releases cruise control when you depress the clutch.
  11. Unless power is maintained to the DME while changing out a battery, the DME will need to go through a relearning mode, which should not last too long.
  12. As I have not encountered any problems with any Ctek equipment to date (I own several of their 3300 and 7002 units) I would have to say that there is something wrong with the vehicle if you cannot charge the battery via the lighter socket as Porsche expects you to. Either you have a bad battery (which happens, even with brand new batteries), excessive current draw somewhere in the system, or your lighter circuit is faulty. Time to start testing............
  13. I, for one, can speak to the issue. We had a car come in that had recently installed a "totally rebuilt 3.2L" from them (Motormeister) that had failed shortly after being installed. First of all, it wasn't a 3.2L, it was a 2.7L; secondly, there appeared to be a lot of obviously used components in the assembly, along with some really agricultural assembly techniques. To me, that is more than enough reason to say "Run away!", they are less than a quality shop............
  14. A couple of reasons: Porsche has used multiple design rear bearings over the years, each apparently superseding the previous unit, and eventually making the older one unavailable. As the different designs (single and double row) are not particularly interchangeable, this creates a problem for the end user. Porsche, however, has created an $800 solution: They now only make the IMS bearing available with the compatible shaft assembly, assuring it will fit. But as this current shaft assembly is the latest design bearing, which is too big in diameter to fit through the opening in the rear of the block, and is not compatible with the earlier shafts, the currently available OEM solution requires splitting the cases to install it………….
  15. First, you need to understand a given limitation on the "enthusiast" version of the Durametric software, the most common version individuals own: It can only be used on three cars. So asking someone for access has a significant cost to the owner, he/she is giving up one third of the system's utility for your "six pack". I would suggest trying to find someone with the "Pro" version of Durametric, which does not have that limitation, but costs a lot more to purchase, so you may be buying them a good bottle of wine instead................
  16. Which model Ctek do you have? Reason is that some models with more features such as the 7002, tend to “test cycle” the battery more frequently, giving the impression it is not fully charging, but will eventually settle down and the green “steady state” light will come on, sometimes after several hours. I have both 7002’s and 3300’s, and the 7002’s cycle much more frequently, and when you put the 3300 on the same car, the cycling is much less frequent. As the Optima’s using both model maintainers continue to load test perfectly, I would not be concerned.
  17. Possibly the coolant level sensor, which is located in the bottom of the coolant surge tank in the rear boot. Fortunately, the level sensor is not actually in contact with the coolant, so it can be changed without having to drain the system. I'd also check the plug connections on the sensor as they tend to get corroded (yellow arrow in photo).
  18. Porsche does retail their gear oils in liter containers, but not all dealers seem to carry it. For someone doing a DIY change out, that would be the way to go. Shops usually buy theirs in either drums (due to cost) or 5 gallon pails, the latter of which I understand have been discontinued due to lack of sales.
  19. The reasons not to disconnect the battery are fairly well documented; Excellence magazine recently did a detailed article on some of the issues it can lead to, particularly with 911 variants. My personal favorite was the cars that lost fuel level calibration, resulting in having to drain the fuel tank, refill it with a precise amount of fuel, and then reset the dash gauge using a PST II/PIWIS unit. Not exactly easy or fun...............
  20. Five speed is lighter when you factor in all the other parts that are required for the six speed (rear hub carriers, etc.); have also noted that the five speeds often have the advantage in auto cross and DE events, possibly due to weight and ratios.
  21. +1 on Loren's comments; we have encountered exactly the same thing. Clients that have tried everything imaginable, from Red Line, Royal Purple, Amsoil, to Mobil 1 products have all ended up both disappointed with the shifting and noisy gearbox complaints, and ended up switching back to the OEM juice. We did see one product that seemed to work well, particularly in the cold, but it is not sold in North America, so while an interesting footnote, it is not a viable solution...............
  22. Mike has a point, for general maintenance purposes (oil changes, etc.) nothing really fancy is needed in the tool department. Once you get into things like the RMS or cam timing tooling and the like, and the tool bill starts to mount pretty quickly. On the other hand, M3's are no gems in that respect either and some model years have had their share of engine problems as well. I would, however, be willing to speculate, just from you comments alone, that your wrench probably has more BMW tools than Porsche in his/her shop............
  23. Not to sound overly critical, but wouldn’t have been both easier, and less "agricultural", to just buy a decent maintainer?
  24. Well, here is where the LED conversion gets interesting; replacing the OEM bulb with an LED and a resistor will effectively end up at the same wattage power consumption; you will have saved nothing energy wise, and the lights will be marginally brighter, but you will have added both complexity and a small amount of weight to the car. That is why I don't understand the interest in converting...... the view just isn't worth the climb.........
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