JFP in PA

That insert should be a fairly tight fit into the hub carrier (no play at all), if it is not, it could also be be a source of steering noise issues.

The fuel pressure regulator is closed when the car is not running (no vacuum). This functions as a shut off or check valve for the return side of the system to maintain pressure in the fuel rails. If the regulator did not do this, fuel pressure would bleed off via the return line, and momentarily make the care hard to restart, particularly when hot. When you run the fuel delivery test (engine off), the fuel flow from the pump opens the regulator, allowing the fuel into the return line. The fuel delivery rate out of the line leading to the fuel filter should be at least 850 cc or more. The “standard” delivery test (OEM service manual method) is done off the fuel return line, so you are seeing the entire fuel system delivery (pump, filter, regulator, fuel rails, fuel lines, etc.). If the return line flow is in bounds, everything else has to be OK by default. You should see three lines coming off the top of the fuel pump, one is fuel out from the pump (the turret), and the other two are the fuel return line and the tank vent line to the EVAP canister system. The main out line also has a check valve at the top of the pump to hold pressure while the car is sitting, otherwise pressure would bleed backwards into the tank, and you would have the same hot start issues that a bad pressure regulator would cause. On modern cars, the entire fuel system is a closed loop to prevent any hydrocarbon leaks to the atmosphere. When the engine is off, the system is entirely sealed. Any vapors generated in the tank are routed to the EVAP canister and stored in activated carbon. When the car starts, a small controlled amount of outside air is bled into the EVAP canister, across the carbon bed to pick up trapped vapors, to the tank vent, and into a purge line system that leads to a small valve at the intake manifold. When the car is running, these vapors are let into the intake at a controlled rate and burnt, so nothing escapes to the atmosphere. This EVAP purge system also acts as a fuel tank vent line to limit the vacuum level in the fuel tank, otherwise the pump would not be able to draw, and actually prevent excess vacuum from collapsing the plastic fuel tank. While somewhat overly complicated, the system is quite functional.

The crank should be "miked" for trueness and bearing size, as well as journal roundness.

Let me guess, the tie rod tool you used did not look like this: I am not aware of anyone selling the conical insert for the steering knuckle on the hub unit. I believe they are an interference fit part that comes with the hub assembly, which is not cheap (about $900 per side). You can try heating the insert to get it off the tie rod end, but be careful not to damage it as it will need to be pressed back into the hub carrier.

All of the Porsche street cars share components like window regulators, electrical switches, and sensors; it would be too expensive to do otherwise. So some of the sensors and electronic bits have similar failure rates in the Turbo or GT2 as a 996/997. But the engines in the Turbo and GT2 cars are a unique mechanical design honed over years of hard core racing, and share just about nothing with the more "pedestrian" M96/97 engines. Can you break a Metzger lump? Sure, if you try hard enough or go completely nuts with it; which is why PCNA has a replacement engine program for them. So if you want to take one of the Metzger’s and take it to the limit, just bring money, lots of money........... :eek:

Not really, unless you go nuts with the boost levels. The components were designed for ruggedness and racing use, castings are thick where they need to be, and proven over years of hard running. Basically, the factory broke just about everything that could fail, and then improved it. Running just about any level of boost on a M96/97 is asking for problems and shortening the engine's life expectancy.

The Turbo uses the Metzger design engine, which is completely different than the M96/97 engine found in all the 996's. While it does have a lay shaft, it is pressure lubricated and relatively bullet proof, as is the rest of the engine. Read up on the Metzger engine, it had a true dry sump system and a lot of other improvements over the M96/97, which is why a replacement costs north of $50K.

Try 0642

The car should hold 3.8 bar pressure when it is not running, 3.2 at engine idle. All flow measurements are with the engine off for safety reasons, plus the engine would not run well, if at all, while doing a fuel delivery test as it would be fuel starved. The regulator is vacuum operated, throttling back the fuel delivery and pressure (opening) under high vacuum signal (idle, cruise, or deceleration) and stepping up fuel delivery(closing) under low vacuum signal (open throttle for power) or during engine start. It essentially is bleeding off excess fuel to the return line when not required by the engine. If you are referring to the round plastic "turret" where the fuel supply line connects, it is just part of the fuel level sender unit, which also includes the tank vent line and fuel return line, and extends down into the tank.

That is pretty much how the system functions. You should have as much fuel delivery at the return line as at the filter. While we are on the subject, have you checked your fuel pressure regulator for being involved in the noise you hear at start up? Reason I ask is your earlier comment about the fuel pressure swinging from high to low and then building back up sounds like it could be some sort of blockage, or it could also be related to the pressure regulator opening and abruptly closing when it should not be doing that: While I hate to be throwing in more possibilities at the 11th hour, if the regulator were to "dump" the fuel rail pressure, nearly all the fuel volume would suddenly be passing into the return line, which could be the source of the sound you hear as it heads back to the tank. Unfortunately, there are very few tests to check the regulator, but one common rule of thumb is if If the operating pressure is below 35psi, or fluctuates wildly, and the fuel pump seems otherwise fine, it’s probably a good bet that the regulator is bad. If you pull off the vacuum connection and there is fuel dribbling from the nipple, the diaphragm inside has failed and the regulator must be replaced. The fuel pressure regulator could also explain why the return delivery rate is so low.

It sounds like a blockage of some sort, the return line should also be at least 850 cc in 30 seconds.

Let's start with the fuel pressure. What you are describing (I cannot see the gauge in your video) is not normal. At idle, the car should have a steady pressure reading in the 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar, or 47.9 +/- 2.9 PSIG. You are nowhere near that pressure. A second critical fuel system test for these cars is delivery, or how much fuel volume is the pump putting out. In 30 seconds, your pump should deliver at least 850 cc of fuel. With the pressure you are describing, I’d be will to bet you are nowhere near that either. Something is obstructing the fuel flow. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, and have you pulled it and at least checked it to see if it is blocked? Yes, I felt the fuel pressure readings were askew as well. I could not seem to get consistent pressure readings in relation to key cycles... I did not jumper the relay though... Switching the key on and off should produce the same results as the jumper, correct? Secondly, were do I go about disconnecting the fuel return line in order to measure flow? I need to do this... I replaced the fuel filter about a month before these issues started occurring... Is it possible to get a bad fuel filter? It was from Pelican Parts... I suppose pulling it out and inspecting it would not hurt... I will do that when I measure fuel flow, hopefully tonight... IMO, if fuel filter is okay, it must be due to a bad fuel pump or vent valve that sits next to the fuel pump access hole...??? Thanks for your input! Believe it or not, there is even a spec for fuel pressure in these cars when they are not running: 3.8 +/- 0.2 bar; which is even higher than the idle fuel pressure. Normal method to check fuel delivery is to disconnect the fuel line under the car at the fuel filter or at the return line (which is under one of the removable panels near the front of the engine; if you have access to a Bentley manual, it has pictures) so that you can catch the fuel in a measuring container. As your problems started just after installing a new filter, I would start there. It is also possible to check fuel delivery volume at the fuel rail by disconnecting it and routing it to a line that runs to the collection container, but the under the car method works fine and does not require a special routing line to run the test. And yes, there are bad filters, right out of the box…… I would also try running the fuel pressure test with the gas cap off; yes, that may throw a “large vacuum leak” code, but I would want to see if the fuel pressure changes when the cap is removed.

Let's start with the fuel pressure. What you are describing (I cannot see the gauge in your video) is not normal. At idle, the car should have a steady pressure reading in the 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar, or 47.9 +/- 2.9 PSIG. You are nowhere near that pressure. A second critical fuel system test for these cars is delivery, or how much fuel volume is the pump putting out. In 30 seconds, your pump should deliver at least 850 cc of fuel. With the pressure you are describing, I’d be will to bet you are nowhere near that either. Something is obstructing the fuel flow. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed, and have you pulled it and at least checked it to see if it is blocked?

Good, you are back in business.

Check the crank position sensor, when they go bad the DME does not see the engine turning over and shuts off the fuel. When it does this, it won't throw a code but the car won't start.

If memory serves, there was an article in Excellence about the metal tube inserts that the hoses attach to coming loose on the Turbo and GT cars (they are apparently glued in and the glue sometimes fails). The “fix” is to get the inserts welded into place by a competent welding shop: You could be having similar issues.

I think he is refering to the OEM manual's recommendation that you should not remove the mount from the bracket as that could damage the mount: Some have commented that they have done what the manual recommends against, others remain more circumspect, or simply buy the OEM replacement with the bracket already attached.

Has the coolant level been dropping at all?

And who was it that said, "If you want to get into the real money, start a religion......" :eek:

Unbelievably, the Boxster service manual for the same year has a better image (the cars share many of the same parts), and it looks like the inside handle assembly has a couple of openings in it that the switch just snaps into, and then the cable plugs in. I’d also try to cross over the part number with a friendly VW or Audi dealer, they all share a lot of components. Sometimes these cars are just infuriating when it comes to small parts….

Shop around, I have found them online for $35-40 each. Have also made progress with some details, it is item #20:

I have not been able to find any diagrams or photos of how the inside handle switch mounts, but I did locate a part number: Inside handle microswitch: 996.613.123.00 (Same both sides). Perhaps if you can get a look at the switch, it may become more clear on how it mounts.

Scanning the DME is a normal part of any pre purchase inspection; any potential buyer sould be more than concerned if the current owner did not allow it. If you are planning to get another Porsche, the optimum scanning tool would be the Durametric Enthusiast software, which is Porsche specific and an excellent DIY tool. If you are not going to stay with Porsche, I would consider a more generic OBD II scanner like those from Actron, which will function on any brand vehicle but lacks some specific Porsche functionalities. The OBD port is located near the steering column, beneath the dash. And just for general reference purposes, when we do a PPI, all aftermarket HID installations are considered “deduct” items due to the inherent problems both with the kits and the problems they often cause.

The door lock micro switch in inside the door handle assembly; remove the door handle and lock cylinder, and simply unclip the switch (a small screw driver helps). This is covered in the new Bentley 996 manual (page 57-9) if you have access to one. If you do not have the Bentley manual, which is a great DIY tool, and would like to acquire one, there is a link on this site to the RennTech Amazon store where you can get a good deal on one, and the site benefits as well.

Have you checked the wiring harness for the sensors? It could be frayed wiring or a connector issue.