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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I have read a lot about IMS, but I don't really know what it actually does. Can someone explain it. Thanks, The IMS essentially takes the timing from the crank and send it out to the cams. The IMS sits below the crank in the engine. There is a chain that goes from the crank to the IMS. The IMS has two other chains that transfer the timing to the cams. The back one (by the bearing, flywheel side) that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 1-3. The other end of the IMS has a chain that goes to the exhaust cam on cylinders 4-6 (this end also runs the oil pump). If the bearing fails, the IMS has no support in the rear and the chains can/will jump timing. This timing jump causes the pistons to strike the valves and mayhem ensues, causing a total engine failure. Rick 99 996C4 87 944S What have they changed in the 987/997 engine design that eliminates this problem? They eliminated the IMS shaft entirely in 2010............
  2. That's good enough for me. :clapping: That being the case, I’m sure you will get the outcome you so richly deserve………….
  3. Really? The following are quotes from the Redline website: For 0W40: "Recommended for water-cooled Porsche and Mercedes-Benz 229.5/229.51 applications" "Recommended for API SM/SL/SJ/SH/SG/CF and ACEA A3/B4" For 5W40: "As specified for Audi, BMW, Mercedes Benz, Porsche and VW applications" "Recommended for API SM/CJ-4/CI-4/CI-4 PLUS Also recommended for ACEA A3/B4/E9" I don't think they'd mention those ratings without being pretty sure they meet them. Wanna bet they their oils do meet the spec, but they've just never spent the money to formally get them listed? PS - I am biased, as I use Redline 5W40 in my Transsybera (GTS) V8. Reread what you quoted from Redline, you will note the "recommended", which is the verbiage that their marketing department came up with after ACEA called them on making ACEA rated claims that simply are not true. According to ACEA, Redline had never submitted products for independent verification of passing ACEA ratings. So, no, they do not have ACEA ratings, never did; and the “recommendations” are those of Redline marketing………………
  4. No, because it has no ACEA ratings (never submitted)................... I'd use Castrol Syntec 10W-40 which has ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings.
  5. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own)............. Have you made this change? It can't be that big a deal , can it? I have one in my personal car, as well as several customers that use it as well. It really helps to lower the engine oil temps as well as the coolant (the M96 actually runs much hotter than the grossly inaccurate dash gauge indicates). We have also observed an improvement in UoA’s after switching………. I called LN and said they do not sell them septratly. Where now? Interesting, as they had been offering them to shops that way, and selling the required tool as well. Perhaps it wasn’t a financially attractive approach. Currently, LN/Raby are the only ones I know of offering them in North America (and I have looked), so I guess you are stuck with the housing………….
  6. [/b] And your impression of the car was??????????????? :unsure: I absolutely loved it. I’ve owned turbo’s in the past; this was a very impressive car. It was also a PDK car, which is one reason I wanted to drive it, and I have to say that I was very impressed, and unthreatened by this new technology. I sincerely feel that my current 6-speed may just be my last…… To answer one of your original suppositions, it is also my understanding that the PDK will be the “standard” transmission offered on the 2010 Turbo, with the 6-speed being an option………
  7. Having recently driven a 2010 turbo cab, I'd have to say your are incorrect..................
  8. What is on their vaunted “approved list” tends to be overly thin “W” weights that do not hold up well. 10W-40, from years of UoA’s collected on customer cars, is just fine……………
  9. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own)............. Have you made this change? It can't be that big a deal , can it? I have one in my personal car, as well as several customers that use it as well. It really helps to lower the engine oil temps as well as the coolant (the M96 actually runs much hotter than the grossly inaccurate dash gauge indicates). We have also observed an improvement in UoA’s after switching……….
  10. 5W-30 is a bit too thin, you should be using something that is "X"W-40. Look for a 10W-40 full synthetic with the right ACEA ratings.
  11. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own).............
  12. We use 10W-40 year round; the outside air temp at the shop is currently 22F.....................you will be fine with 10W-40.
  13. Basically, the top 3 inches down from the edge of the top windshield gasket are clear of the metallic film all the way across the glass................ So just mount the unit up high and you will be fine.
  14. Why not contact Jake Raby at FlatSix and find out who in your area has taken his training course on how to do the upgrade.................
  15. I respect the work you have done here. What brand would you recommend? Currently, and for some time now, we have benn using Castrol Syntec 10W-40. What I like is that the most recent UoA is as good as ones taken 3 years ago; the product continues to be a sound choice. And, by-the-by, we have no affiliation with Castrol; we can get just about any brand of oil out there, but settled on Castrol based upon its continued performance.
  16. We have been collecting UoA's on several brands and weights of oils for years. Mobil 1's problems began several years back when we began to notice lower initial TBN's, very high TBN drop off with low mileage, poor ability to "stay in grade" with light use & low street miles, very poor film strengths, as well as other issues. We also noted that several grades (15W-50, once a staple for the air cooled crowd) lost all ACEA ratings. So it's not just one Mobil 1 weight, it's the entire product line. Mobil 1 used to get great test results, but that is no longer the case. As the result of Mobil 1's change of direction, we stopped using the entire product line and now use a 10W-40 synthetic from another company (we tested their 5W-40, which was not bad, but the performance of their 10W-40 was superior) that continues to demonstrate excellent UoA's, even after hard track use, as our standard offering for water cooled models. We still get to test M1 products, often from new cars coming in for their first oil change, but things have not improved for Mobil 1, particularly the 0W-40 the factory seems to like. You can continue to believe in Porsche’s vaunted "approved oil list" if you like; we will continue to trust the data we collect............
  17. "What is wrong with 0W?" Other than the simple fact that some 0W weight oils, and specifically Mobil 1 0W-40, demonstrate very poor used oil analysis data, particularly in terms of TBN fall off after 3-4 k miles of everyday street driving……………probably nothing.
  18. If you use an ACEA A3, B3, B4 rated full synthetic (preferably not a 0W-anything weight), you do not need additives. And no oil is any better than any other when it comes to the IMS bearing; that bearing fails because it is sealed and does not get lubrication from the engine oil......
  19. The reality is that even if the car is warmed up, and sitting level on a lift, it is still dribbling oil 15 min. after you take the drain plug out. As we probably do 75-100 oil changes a month, you can bet that we don’t go take a coffee break every time to let every last drop out. It simply is not feasible……….. Put it up on the ramps, pull the plug, and let it sit for 15-30 min. Put the plug back, refill the sump, and get on with life…………….
  20. Contact Sunset Porsche, just got one from them........................
  21. Kenn: If you get the LN Engineering Thermostat with housing, it only involves removing and replacing four 10mm bolts and the gasket. The most time consuming part will be taken up by refilling the coolant that was drained in the process. That's an easy task if you have a Ulift vacuum tool by Uview. If you can source a 160 degree thermostat directly from Mahler, it's the same process, but then you have to remove (un-spring) the old thermostat from your OEM housing and then insert the new thermostat in its place. This requires a "special Porsche tool", but it's a tool that you can easily improvise. The difference is in the price, with the LN Engineering thermostat and housing costing around $200. Again, if you can source the thermostat by itself, it should cost considerably less. Regards, Maurice. Have you been able to actually source the 160 degree stat from Mahler? Reason I ask is that all of the 160 stats i have seen, including those from LN are MotoRad units. I contacted MotoRad directly and was told that unit was "not available" in the US................... You should also be aware that LN makes the thermostat available separately (no housing), but only in ten packs (which includes the replacement tool), which is cheaper in the long run for a shop or possible "group buy". Just a thought....
  22. No; if anything, I would expect MPG to go up (slight mileage improvement has been reported but not confirmed) due to improved thermal efficiency. Before and after dyno runs have noted slight, but measurable HP and torque numbers as well. Remember, the reason for the higher temperature OEM stat is for emissions, not performance............... And, your DME has more than enough “bandwidth” to bring the fuel/air back into spec without out any emission of inspection problems.
  23. We have multiple customers running the 160 stat, and I have one in my own car as well. To date, I have not seen one downside to the lower temp stat, which also happens to be the same temp range used on the GT2 and 3 cars from the factory....................
  24. First, I would comment that whoever first told you about the ripped boots did not reinforce the potential damage that would occur. With the boots torn, the grease lubricating the CV joints can come out (an usually makes one Hell of mess under the car), after which water will get in and slowly destroy the CV. You should not have continued to run the car with the boots ripped. Second, it is usually cheaper to replace the axel assemblies once the CV’s have failed then to remove, disassemble and repair them; the issue is the amount of time it take to do the axel assembly rebuild. Now comes the fun part: A lot of shops have been replacing the OEM axels with aftermarket rebuilds out of China. These units are cheap, but nowhere near the quality of the OEM units. So specifically ask about the source……… In any case, this is going to cost you unless you are ready and able to do it yourself………..
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