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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Depends upon many factors, realistically about 4-6 years is typical.
  2. All Porsche's have a slow (40-60 mA) current drain due all of the electronics; over time, it runs the battery down. Try recharging the battery, but then have it load tested as this condition is sometimes fatal to the battery. Then go out and buy a good battery maintainer (not a trickle charger) such as the Ctek units, and when the vehicle is going to sit, plug it into the cigarette lighter and it will keep the battery(s) fully charged.
  3. I own an independent shop, and we pull out a fair number of M96/97 Porsche alternators just about every day; we have never had to heat up an alternator case, or pound on it with anything. Loosening the bolt and giving it a tap or two is all that was necessary in all the years we have been doing it; the bushing only needs to move a thousandth or two for the alternator to come right out. I have no idea why you had such a problem, but we never have seen the need to risk heating up an alloy housing or beating on it.
  4. By going earlier, you get to correct the IMS issue, versus a few HP for considerable potential G&A (grief and aggravation)……….. All depends upon where your head and wallet are at.
  5. Unknowns: Are the journal and pin bores the correct diameter and width? Is the the length correct? Do the journal ends clear the crank carrier and cases? Is the weight the same or less than the OEM rods? If the answers to the above are mostly "No", it would be cheaper to go with quality aftermarket stuff. Not cheap, but well made and they at least fit..............
  6. Open the link in Loren's original posting and read item #7; that is all you need to do to move the bushing rearward and remove the alternator..................
  7. When considering a “non-conventional” fuel conversion, you need to first calculate the all in costs for doing the conversion, and then calculate the payback period to recover your out of pocket expenses. Quite often, this conversion ends up not making any sense on that basis. A second consideration it the availability of the new fuel type; some have found post conversion that long distance travel becomes problematic as you need to route your trips around the fuel source infrastructure locations.
  8. Never hurts to ask, but I seriously doubt that PCNA is going to come through on a car that is approaching 8 years old and that far out of warranty. We have a couple of customers with relatively low mileage 2005, 2006, and 2007 cars suffer the same fate, and even though they were multiple new car purchasers from the same dealership, PCNA only offered them a small discount off the replacement engines, none of them got the replacement costs covered. As for replacement engines, I'd look for a nice one in the 2003-2004 model time frame. Many of the 2005 engines came from the factory with the "final solution" unserviceable IMS in them, so I would also be looking at the last two years before the 2005's to be on the safe side. If you do find a 05, look at the IMS center bolt, if it is the 22MM unit, it is the one that cannot be replaced. If you find one with the smaller center bolt, it can be updated with the LN Engineering unit. Anything later than 2005 is not easily updateable without spending nearly as much money as buying the engine from PCNA. As for your experience with after-market warrantee coverage, you are not alone. For the most part, concerned owner’s would be better off putting the same funds in a “repair fund” account, or spending it on getting the engine updated with the LN unit. A lot of independent shop owners, myself included, will not deal with them on any repairs.
  9. The Durametric software would see it via cam deviation values. I'd start by checking fuel pressure and look for a bad crank position sensor (they can stop the M96 engine cold).
  10. In general, the IMS tends to fail while the engine is running, but there is nothing that would prevent it from "buying the farm" while trying to start.. That said, you issue could be any number of things: bad fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay, crank position failure (always a favorite), bad ingnition switch, etc. When the crank position sensor goes out, the DME thinks the engine is not turning, so it shuts off the fuel and spark; no start. Some diagnostics are in order; you need to determine if you have fuel pressure. If you have access to a Durametric system, it should be able to not only see any codes, but it could also run cam deviation values to see if they are where they are supposed to be (dead give away is if the cam timing has jumped).
  11. Here is a cleaner photo of the slots in a three chain motor, and with the locking tool in place. The slots have to be in line with the cam cover parting line for the tool to seat correctly:
  12. The cam deviation specs are +/- 6. We have seen engines that seemed realtively fine that were as much as +/- 8-9, but they needed to be looked at to find out why (parts wear, bad position sensors, VarioCam issues, etc.). When the engine is locked at TDC, the slot on the cam on both banks should look like this (ignore the comment in the upper right of the photo, it concerned inserting the P253 cam timing tool so the cam cover could be removed, which was a bad ides in the first place because it is not the correct tool for the job):
  13. The battery is not replaceable. The sensor looks like this (color and shape can vary with model and year): You will also need a stem, gaskets and locking nut for each unit.
  14. The batteries cannot be replaced; and shop around for the new sensors, they can be pricey...........usually a bit north of $110 each.. :eek:
  15. That does not sound good.............
  16. No, it is not "OK" as delivered, everything needs to be dynamically balanced as the pistons alone will throw everything out of balance, plus the factory balance ain't all that swift to begin with...........
  17. Are both of the cam locking slots sitting dead vertical when the engine is at TDC? If not, at least one cam may be out of time. This is exactly why we run a cam deviation value check with the Durametric software before and after doin an IMS......
  18. If you have the full LN kit, it should contain the following: If you note that there is a five chain and a three chain cam tool (one of each), and that the LN instructions (item #6) says that if you have both tools, you can modify one so that both cams can be locked. Get a hack saw and a file and have at the three chain cam tool and turn it into a five chain tool..................that simple. If the kit you bought did not contain both, either try LN to see if they will sell you another one, or get a local fab shop to knock one out.
  19. A lot of that has to do with were you buy them; OEM filters are expensive, quality aftermarket units (e.g.: Wix/NAPA Gold) are about $16 and probably better made than the OEM units............
  20. We use the LN procedure, locking the engine at TDC first (absolutely critical), locking the cams, and pulling the three tensioners (we remove them as they are quite often shot and need cleaning or replacement anyway); never had a problem with the shaft not being centered for the bearing removal and reinstall. We get calls from IMS DIY’s gone badly; and most of them, and in particular the ones that have really “gone off the reservation” involve using the setscrews. The ones that involved the LN procedure that went bad happened because someone decided to skip a step of two and ended up in deep yogurt as the direct result. This process is not difficult, but it does require two things: some special tools and the ability to read and follow the directions………….
  21. I’m going to probably start a firestorm here, but here goes: Stop following Wayne’s procedure’s and download a copy of the LN/Flat Six instructions: http://www.lnenginee...imsretrofit.pdf We have seen too many issues with using the set screw approach on DIY installs. The LN/Flat Six procedure works every time, if you follow them to the letter. I know that Wayne was trying to come up with a cheaper alternative method and component’s, but the rear gear on the IMS shaft is a press fit and can be moved inwards by the set screws. When that happens, it cannot be re-positioned without taking the engine apart. You also need to remove at least three of the chain tensioners or the shaft will pull off to one side, severely hampering the installation of the new bearing.
  22. Problem is that while in theory, a smoother transition plenum should have a positive impact on intake flow, cylinder filling, etc.; in actuality, the larger questions are at what point in the RPM curve does this improvement occur and how large an impact does it make? Unfortunately, many of these devices do little until the engine is at the far end of the RPM curve, so whatever “gains” there are to be had are often minimal under everyday driving characteristics. Some intake mods also have the effect of yielding some level of HP gains at extreme RPM’s, but also move the torque curve in such a manner as to have a negative impact on the low to mid RPM range drivability of the car. Same type of thing can occur with adding larger diameter throttle bodies; some increase seems to improve performance; but going too large tends to slow air velocities in the intake to the point that negative things begin to happen. These engines are a “system”; changing just one component does not always result in a positive, regardless of how much it costs. This is why such alteration’s need to be accompanied by several dyno pulls; as with most things in life, not everything works well together…………
  23. As we rarely see immobilizer issues unless they get wet (and even then most can be dried and recover), what is causing you to kill so many? You also need to realize that exactly what you are asking for is what a thief would need to steal your or any other Porsche out there, so I suspect a "public" response will not be forth coming...............
  24. There is nothing wrong with the stock style filter, and they never oil the MAF. The K&N fiter really adds nothing other than expense.....................
  25. The tool in the illustration is actually one of Porsche's nearly unobtainable $1,000 special tools. :eek: We use a long, thin "electrician’s screw driver" that we found at Sears, works fine.
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