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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Sounds like the most likely possibility from what has been said so far. It may in fact be unrelated to the IMS retrofit work if the tensioner guide simply failed. Actually, they are somewhat related as you have to release the chain tensioners to do the IMS, then reset them afterwards………..
  2. Reason I ask is because the failure of a tensioner guide will result in one bank jumping time.................
  3. Why not just go back to the OEM unit; they work pretty well and would address all your issues?
  4. Good luck with it Fred, you've got it in the best hands possible.. These are the kind of issues that keep some people awake nights................ Is Jake refering to the chain tensioner guide?
  5. Yes, it is possible for only one bank to have jumped time. Each bank has its own chain run off the intermediate shaft, so if one chain became too loose during the IMS change out, and the cam was allowed to move due to valve spring pressures, it could jump time. This is why the engine is "locked down" prior to doing the IMS. As mentioned, the five chain motors are less prone to doing this than the three chain models, but they can still do it if the proper precautions are not taken……….
  6. As I mentioned, going after the actuator is a time consuming job; that said, $1300 to just look at it is more than a bit much.................particularly when to check the allocation, all you need to do is set the engine at TDC and pull the two green plugs…………
  7. You shouldn't be running 18's on a 97 in the first place; the later cars had to be reinforced in several critical areas in order to run 18's...................
  8. seems odd the cam timing would be off after 200 miles - it was a rather sudden event - one minute, it was fine - the next, rough idle. Had the IMS been done incorrectly, wouldn't have the engine thrown a code and started rough idling immediately? one other question - if this were a faulty sensor, which sensor would I be looking for? Thanks Normally, I would agree that it is a bit odd, however the 1340 code is pretty specific to the issue. What has me intrigued is that all the codes are to one bank, which means the relationship between the intake and exhaust cams on that bank is outside the limits. On a five chain motor, that is pretty much impossible as there is a short chain connecting the two cams on each head that should have never had tension relaxed during the IMS install, which is why the IMS upgrade is less problem prone on 2003 and earlier cars. I think it would be useful to have the car run on a PIWIS or Durametric system to see where the cams actually are; could be that the one bank has a dying VarioCam actuator, or a position sensor that is causing the problem. Hopefully, that is the problem, but if it is, you are not out of the woods just yet because the actuator can be fun to replace with the engine in the car…..
  9. Retiming is not required if the IMS change out is done correctly. As yours is a five chain motor, it should have been a relatively simple job to lock the engine down before changing the IMS. Without a full analysis of exactly how the service was done, it is difficult to positively connect the two incidents; but I have to add that if your cam timing is off, it would not be the first time I've seen this happen...............
  10. Actually, any water cooled system can benefit from a vacuum fill, which is why many OEM's such as Nissan are now recommending it for all cooling systems. While other designs are not as prone to the issues Porsche sees, they can still get air pockets in them. Vacuum filling eliminates any chance of that, and typically also reduces the total service time as well............
  11. Check the OBD II manual for codes associated with the EVAP system, they have the test procedures for the valves.................
  12. Usually it is not the cannister that is the issue, it is more often one of the control valves that acts up................
  13. I hate to say this, but you are probably not going to find all the bits. We see broken impellers blades from time to time, and I'm resonably sure we rarely get all the bits out..........................not a good thing, but without disassebling the system, I'm not sure you can.
  14. Interesting, I'll have to look into that......................
  15. I was referring to which system is capable of test cycling the VarioCam/+ technology to see if it worked correctly. I am aware of the capabilities of the PST II (or the Durametric system) to see the cams relative angles change while the engine is running, but was intrigue by Dharn55's post implying that there may also be a diagnostic method to test them to see if they are working correctly. I read his attachment, which is informative concerning how they function, but could not see anything about a way to electronically (or manually) evaluate their function to see if they are operating in range. Obviously, that ability would be of great value when trying to sort out diagnostics on a relatively stock setup. That said, with all of the additional complexity of your specific combination, I can understand your reluctance to thru all the effort required in pulling the actuator in hope that it is at least related to your problem. Unfortunately, without a proven electronic diagnostic procedure, I don't know any other method than pulling the actuator and replacing it. Jake Raby recently had a post on another board concerning what sounded like reaching the limits of the intake port flow at higher compression ratios than stock. Assuming that you have evaluated and eliminated every other possibility (electrical, vacuum, fuel delivery, etc.), I have to wonder if your higher compression and unique intake system somehow enters in to all this. Have you considered contacting Raby?
  16. I'm not particularly sure that you can, unless either the PST II or PIWIS has some way of causing the solenoid to function as a test. Generally, when these units go bad, they tend to totally crap out or they become obvious (poor performance, codes, etc.). I have not seen one that ran well or didn’t throw codes............
  17. You do not have a "rust or corrosion" problem, you have peeling paint; two entirely different things........................
  18. Yes, you will need to pull the cover. You are going to need to lock the cams down prior to pulling the actuator. Before reinstallion, you need to compress the valve using a special tool , or I've also seen it done with an improvised C-clamp setup. More nit-pickey than difficult, but dealer get a ton of $ to do this, I've seen quotes over $3K.....
  19. On the M96 engine, the oil cooler sits on top of the engine, making it the highest point in both the oil and cooling systems (it is an oil/water heat exchanger). As such, draining either system (just pulling out the drain plug) fairly completely drains the cooler without any other effort..................
  20. At cost, there is less than $75 for parts in an oil/filter change for an M96 car (small independent, big dealers actually pay less); you do the math................
  21. I cannot remember how many of these installs gone wrong have come into the shop in the last couple of years. Noise in the stereo, MIL lights on, one or both lights that would only fire up some of the time, all kinds of electrical issues, car won’t pass inspection, etc. etc.; I have really begun to wonder why people even bother………….
  22. Loren, I believe the most current RMS seal (the PTFE unit) is actually part number 997.101.212.00; and requires a new design installation tool 9699 and insert guide 9699/2 (the earlier tools cannot be used on the poly tetra fluoro ethylene seal).
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