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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You are correct that the 202 is compatible (they are only slightly different in viscosity), but the TSB came out at a time when the 11S was unavailable to buy (a Pentosin decision), but that was subsequently reversed and the product is available again. My Pentosin suppliers had jacked up the price for the11S when supplies dwindled (some cars do not like the viscosity difference, particularly in colder climates), but pricing has also reverted to normal.
  2. Along with the clutch (pressure plate and disc), throwout bearing, all new fasteners, IMS, RMS, check the flywheel for twist, and do the AOS while it is out in the open.
  3. Messing around with damaged cooling systems on these cars has worse odds than Russian roulette. There is a poster on another site outraged because shortly after having a car serviced, he had and overheat complete with a flashing cooling light, but still drove the car home. Now he is in the market for a new engine that exceeds the resale value of the car and is griping about suing the shop that did the work. Nevertheless, as he inexplicably drove the car with the light flashing, I would be willing to bet any legal action would go nowhere. At the first sign of cooling system problems, shut the car off and call a flatbed; the tow will end up being the cheapest thing involved in getting the car back on the road………….
  4. Also be aware that bottoming out the nose on your car can also crack the radiator mounting "ears", causing leaks, and forcing you to replace the radiators.
  5. P0506 is usually associated with a sticking idle air control valve, which bleeds air into the intake to control idle speed conditions; sort of “controlled vacuum leak”. The IACV can often be cleaned of accumulated crud and placed back into service, but that does not always work and replacement becomes necessary. That said, considering your vacuum booster issues, you should also be checking it to be sure you do not have rust out problems causing a vacuum leak there that is upsetting the IACV.
  6. Pull the spark plugs and look at them; one or more may exhibit a very clean look. If they do, run a leak down test those cylinders; you may have a cracked head.
  7. I believe Loren is correct; the problems with the “under the car” short shifter was that it was “infinitely adjustable”, which ended up meaning there was one way to install it correctly and an infinite number of ways to screw it up. Because of the way it worked, it also had multiple fasteners and adjusters that tended to come loose, usually at the most inappropriate time. Not one of B&M's better moments..............
  8. Check here http://www.permoveo....he/Default.aspx I have to agree with Loren on that code. The factory OBD II diagnostics manual code lists for a 2001 Boxster does not use that number, nor does any Porsche using the 5.2 or 7.2 DME. I do not know where that site gets its info from, but I would recheck the car with a proper system to confirm the actual code(s)
  9. There is a small threaded bushing in the rear mounting flange of the alternator that moves slightly forward when the bolt is tightened, clamping down on the bracket. If you thread a bolt into that side (item #7 in Loren's DIY), leaving it loose, and then tap the bolt with a dead blow hammer, the bushing will release the mount and the alternator can be removed (after removing the bolt). You can see the bushing in this photo on the rear "ear" of the alternator, near the Bosch box:
  10. Replacing the M96 water pump has been written up on multiple sites, with some variations due to model year, etc. It is pretty straightforward. Do a search, you will probably get more data than you really need…………
  11. Sounds like the pump is already dead and needs to come out. Do not run the car in this condition as the pump could fail and cause catastrophic engine problems.
  12. Just about everyone on Earth, except for Porsche, sells the voltage regulator; it is a common inexpensive part number to Audi, VW, MB, and even some Fords. Replacing the regulator is usually an easy fix for many alternator issues short of bad bearings, and one Hell of alot cheaper as well. If nothing else is wrong with the alternator, just do the regulator.
  13. Without the reading the codes, it is always a bit of a crap shoot; but your car is displaying the type of faults often associated with either a battery or alternator issue. Get the car scanned for codes, have the battery load tested and check the voltage of the alternator under load, you could just have a voltage regulator on the way out (pretty common).
  14. Just in passing, if you do not know what brand is in the trans, drain it and fill it with the factory gear oil. Many of the complaints we have heard about using aftermarket gear oils involved strange noises; it may not be the entire issue, but it could also be your cheapest solution to at least some of the problem. You should also stay away from light weight flywheels unless you intend to rebalance the entire rotating assembly; lightweight flywheels do not dampen any of the rotating assembly’s harmonics, but a dual mass will.
  15. With enough money, welding equipment and duct tape, anything is possible. That said, what you are suggesting would overly complicate a normally completely functional A/C system, as well as significantly reducing the car’s resale value……
  16. If the AOS is functioning correctly, there should be a low vacuum signal at the oil fill cap, in the range of 5 inches of water. Any higher and the AOS has to be changed as it is on the way out. Most shops have a modified oil cap that connects to either a low range vacuum gauge, or a slack tube manometer for checking the AOS; the slack tube manometer is something anyone can jury rig using some clear flexible tubing and a ruler for the purpose.
  17. Start by checking all the heavy power leads from the battery to the starter and the battery to ground connections, they are a common corrosion point that causes no end of hard to find electrical issues. Even if the cables ends are clean, check the cables for resistance, there should be almost none; if you find resistance, replace the cable(s). All of this can be done with the engine still in the car. You should also be running in the high 13 to low 14V range with the car idling.
  18. Both, the brakes suffer due to lack of vacuum (provides the "power" in power brakes) caused when the AOS craps out, the smoke is oil being pulled into the engine through the failed AOS. It is also why you have a rought idle.
  19. Low vacuum because of AOS failure. Try starting the car and let it idle; while it is running, try to remove the oil filler cap. If it is very hard to remove, your AOS is toast and has to be replaced (do not drive the car in this condition as you could easily hydraulic the engine). Do a search; this is a DIY project................
  20. Yes, that looks like a sensor, as you can clearly see the locking/sealing nut on the stem. Just about every type of shop has TPM system tools these days, particularly tire shops. Many will test for little or even no charge as replacing just one of the sensors is going to generate a lot of revenue for them......
  21. Try: Denny's Driveshafts 1189 Military Road Kenmore, New York 14217 They balance.
  22. I'll repeat what I said about a week ago in reference to an equally bogus PIWIS system............. "From time to time, someone shows up claiming to have an "inexpensive PIWIS clone", usually from China. The funny bit is that the ones that actually work (many simply do not work at all) turn out to be using a ripped off copy of an old Durametric system. With Porsche charging near-housing prices just to lease a PIWIS for a year, people should both be glad that there are entrepreneurial firms like Durametric out there, and supportive of the fact that provide quality products at reasonable prices." How about instead you support the people that support us.............
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