Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,584

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    189

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    The car has too many "concerns"; RFM is correct, there are many others out there to choose from that would have no concerns. I'd pass on the car............
  2. JFP in PA
    More than just a couple hours, and I doubt the OP would be doing it himself, so there would be considerable expense involved....
  3. JFP in PA
    Without a proper check out, I do not buy "catastrophic failure" has occurred. No intermixing has happened, so the water jacket must be intact. As far as "the car must not have compression", prove it. I'd bet it still does, and in spades. If it had no compression, it would spin over very quickly and sound funny while it was doing it, which you have not mentioned. Have them dump and save the oil and filter, if they look good, I’d still bet the engine is intact. Big time failures leave evidence. Have them test the coolant for freeze point, take about 1 min. and most shops do it for free. If it isn't at least -10F, you may have momentarily overheated the car due to poor coolant condition allowing a freeze. Have them put the car up in the air and show you where the coolant is leaking from; unless there is physical damage (cracking or a hole), it can still be a freeze up. You may just have a blown hose or water pump, and nothing else. The hard start may or may not even be related to the overheat.
  4. JFP in PA
    On what basis are they saying that the engine is "shot"? We get a couple 986's a month that come into the shop after the water pump quits, and there is rarely anything more to it unless the car was severely overheated, or shows signs of intermixing. There is no such thing as a coolant pressure sensor, the pressure is regulated by a valve in the coolant cap, and there is nothing in the car that will turn it off if the cooling system is open to the atmosphere. I am also concerned about your comment that coolant was leaking at the passenger's side front of the car, which is a sign that one of the radiators or hoses has let go, possibly due to freezing if the coolant protection level is not correct. That may not be a good sign as freeze ups can cause localized overheating, which these engines do not like, but which is not always fatal either. I am not over impressed by your shop's approach. While a compression test is a good idea, I would also be pressure testing the cooling system (takes about 15 min. or so) to determine what and where the leakage is, as well as testing the coolant to see if a freeze up was even possible. If your shop cannot map out a more reasonable diagnostic pathway, and continues their scare tactics, I think it may be time to take it to someone that has some idea what they are doing...............
  5. JFP in PA
    At this juncture, he has little to lose, but is considering spending a lot money to replace an IMS bearing that may not be bad or the source of the knock. The cam deviation values at idle only take a couple of seconds to acquire, and could totally eliminate the IMS as the source of the issue. If the deviation values are steady, it is time to shut it off and pull the engine...........
  6. JFP in PA
    You need to get the DME scanned and post the codes, without them, anything would be a pure guess..........
  7. JFP in PA
    If you have significant ferrous metal in your oil filter, either from the IMS or another source, just swapping out the IMS bearing is not a good idea as you need to get all of the debris out of the engine before it starts tearing up other things. Unfortunately, that means pulling the engine and disassembling it for a total clean out and rebuild, which should include the IMS update along with several other updated components. Just one piece of iron circulating with the oil can start a process leading to some serious heartache in these engines. Some people have gotten away with pulling the sump cover and cleaning out all the crap when an IMS goes bad, but they tend to be the exception; the IMS retrofit was designed to be done before the bearing is toast, not after. I am also concerned about what you describe as a “knock”; typically an IMS makes a metallic rattling sound more akin to a coffee can full of bolts being shaken rather than a knocking sound; I think you may be facing a more serious issue like a rod bearing on the way out. If it is, and you updated the IMS, the rod would still fail anyway, and probably ruin the new IMS bearing as well in the process, even if it did not destroy the block, which is very common. If your car was in my shop, I would check the camshaft deviation values at idle to see if they are stable an within spec; if they were, indicating the IMS was still good, I would recommend pulling the engine before the failing component turns the assembly into a boat anchor………
  8. JFP in PA
    The single largest 9A1 change was the removal of the intermediate shaft, which was the direct cause of many engine failures in the M96/97 units due to rear IMS bearing failures that led to catastrophe. The 9A1 is also a direct injection engine, with significantly higher cylinder compression ratios, but this does not apply in the 2.9L configuration which still uses port injection and lower compression. I have also read that some of the castings were changed to address repeated cylinder head cracking issues that were common in the M96/97, but I have not seen a cutaway of the 9A1 to confirm if this is correct or not.
  9. JFP in PA
    You did not get all the air out of the system, which is what caused the "dump". The preferred method of refilling these systems is under vacuum, which only takes a couple of min. and totally eliminates any issues. If you do not have access to a vacuum fill system, do a search for the "burping" proceedure (it ihas been posted several times on multiple sites) and re-purge the system. It takes a while, but eventually gets the job done................
  10. JFP in PA
    Before anyone can offer any useful help, the year and model of the car would be a good idea, as well as having the DME scanned to see what tfault code(s) triggered the display.................
  11. JFP in PA
    Your are correct; however, even with the bad thrust bearing issue, you currently have a viable core (read worth some serious money to an engine rebuilder); blow it up, you have nothing. I'd strongly think about getting a replacement while there is still some value to your current unit, which will help offset the replacement costs...........
  12. JFP in PA
    The cat is directly in the way of removing this switch; it either has to be removed or loosened enough to get around it. The easiest thing to do is just pull it.
  13. JFP in PA
    There is a very large difference: If you fix it now, the engine can be saved and go on for many years; if you don't, it could very quickly become a boat anchor requiring a much bigger expense to replace....
  14. JFP in PA
    Most of the PDK related issues we are aware of have been software related, but there have also been a couple of abuse related issues (heavy use of the "launch mode" causing overheating). One of the biggest issues I see going forward is that even the dealers cannot service these gearboxes; if oil changes and software do not correct the issue, replacement of the trans is their only option. And only the latest version of the PIWIS can diagnose these transmissions. While the car is under warranty, this is obviously not an issue; but if the car is out of warranty, you had better have a healthy check book balance as a new gearbox, in a crate, is in the $20,000 range............
  15. JFP in PA
    If the crank is moving that much along its axis, you have a thrust bearing issue, item #17 below: If this bearing is failing, the engine has to come apart.
  16. JFP in PA
    Living in the former "Arnold-Stan", your fuel choices are limited by what the "authorities" allow the stations to sell, particularly in major metropolitan areas. That said, your DME is fully capable of dialing back the timing and fuel curves to deal with as low as 83 octane, but will obviously not produce maximum performance at that level. At the other end of the spectrum, going nuts with overly expensive high octane racing fuel, or additives, will not buy you much additional HP either, as the DME can only crank up the curves so far, making the “high priced spread” a waste of money. On 91 octane, you will not be giving up much compared to 93, so I would not be overly concerned about it.
  17. JFP in PA
    As strange as this is going to sound, swapping out the pump is the cheapest part of doing one of these. The time (read labor) to make sure the tank is fully empty, then refill it with a precise amount of fuel, and do the recalibration is going to be a couple of hours of shop and diagnostics time. Pulling and replacing the pump is about an hour. Unless you have access to everything you need, swapping out the pump and then towing the car to the dealer is most likely going to end up costing you more than if you just let them do it…….
  18. JFP in PA
    To do it properly, cleaning and repacking the CV bearings as well as installing new boots, pull the axles on do them on the bench. Once you disconnect one end, you are 75% of the way to taking it out of the car.........
  19. JFP in PA
    +1 on Loren's comments; far too many parts (O2 sensors and MAF units) get changed without doing proper diagnostics, only to be found not to be the issue......
  20. JFP in PA
    First of all, stop randomly changing parts and find out what is causing the alarm fault. These cars store the last ten alarm faults in computer memory, scan the car with a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software and you will know for sure where the issue lies. Quite often, the two favorites are the armrest contact switch, or the radio security ground wire.
  21. JFP in PA
    I just love it! Then charge inflated prices, and we are supposed to resort to bribery to gain relief? Yikes!
  22. JFP in PA
    Not at all surprising. When fuel pumps crap out, slow and almost unperceivable changes in performance are typical; many customers comment that after we changed out their pumps their cars felt “lighter on their feet” or “more responsive”. Not surprising as the both the fuel pressure and delivery volumes dropped off as the pump deteriorated, and then suddenly returned with the installation of a new unit. As these cars are equipped with a fuel system test port, periodically checking the pressure and delivery has caught pumps on the way out before any problems were even noticed.
  23. JFP in PA
    Just watch out for cheap aftermarket "knock off" axles coming in from over seas. While some are pretty good, many are vastly inferior to the OEM units, not just in the steel, but the CV joints and boots as well. As replacement OEM unit are rather pricey, you can rebuild your current units for low bucks, and you end up with solid quality at a very reasonable price. Another option is to find a local axle rebuilder that will overhaul your units; not a cheap as doing them yourself, but still better than replacing them.
  24. JFP in PA
    Along with the $400 oil changes.............. :eek:
  25. JFP in PA
    Stories like this are what keep independents in business………… Granted, dealers have higher overhead, but there are limits to how much the slick waiting area, free coffee, and bagels will cover.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.