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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. 5W-30 is a bit too thin, you should be using something that is "X"W-40. Look for a 10W-40 full synthetic with the right ACEA ratings.
  2. LN also has them available without the housing; provided you have the special tool to swap them out........otherwise buy it in the housing (tool cost over $100, but you can also make your own).............
  3. We use 10W-40 year round; the outside air temp at the shop is currently 22F.....................you will be fine with 10W-40.
  4. Basically, the top 3 inches down from the edge of the top windshield gasket are clear of the metallic film all the way across the glass................ So just mount the unit up high and you will be fine.
  5. Why not contact Jake Raby at FlatSix and find out who in your area has taken his training course on how to do the upgrade.................
  6. I respect the work you have done here. What brand would you recommend? Currently, and for some time now, we have benn using Castrol Syntec 10W-40. What I like is that the most recent UoA is as good as ones taken 3 years ago; the product continues to be a sound choice. And, by-the-by, we have no affiliation with Castrol; we can get just about any brand of oil out there, but settled on Castrol based upon its continued performance.
  7. We have been collecting UoA's on several brands and weights of oils for years. Mobil 1's problems began several years back when we began to notice lower initial TBN's, very high TBN drop off with low mileage, poor ability to "stay in grade" with light use & low street miles, very poor film strengths, as well as other issues. We also noted that several grades (15W-50, once a staple for the air cooled crowd) lost all ACEA ratings. So it's not just one Mobil 1 weight, it's the entire product line. Mobil 1 used to get great test results, but that is no longer the case. As the result of M
  8. "What is wrong with 0W?" Other than the simple fact that some 0W weight oils, and specifically Mobil 1 0W-40, demonstrate very poor used oil analysis data, particularly in terms of TBN fall off after 3-4 k miles of everyday street driving……………probably nothing.
  9. If you use an ACEA A3, B3, B4 rated full synthetic (preferably not a 0W-anything weight), you do not need additives. And no oil is any better than any other when it comes to the IMS bearing; that bearing fails because it is sealed and does not get lubrication from the engine oil......
  10. The reality is that even if the car is warmed up, and sitting level on a lift, it is still dribbling oil 15 min. after you take the drain plug out. As we probably do 75-100 oil changes a month, you can bet that we don’t go take a coffee break every time to let every last drop out. It simply is not feasible……….. Put it up on the ramps, pull the plug, and let it sit for 15-30 min. Put the plug back, refill the sump, and get on with life…………….
  11. Contact Sunset Porsche, just got one from them........................
  12. Kenn: If you get the LN Engineering Thermostat with housing, it only involves removing and replacing four 10mm bolts and the gasket. The most time consuming part will be taken up by refilling the coolant that was drained in the process. That's an easy task if you have a Ulift vacuum tool by Uview. If you can source a 160 degree thermostat directly from Mahler, it's the same process, but then you have to remove (un-spring) the old thermostat from your OEM housing and then insert the new thermostat in its place. This requires a "special Porsche tool", but it's a tool that you can easily i
  13. No; if anything, I would expect MPG to go up (slight mileage improvement has been reported but not confirmed) due to improved thermal efficiency. Before and after dyno runs have noted slight, but measurable HP and torque numbers as well. Remember, the reason for the higher temperature OEM stat is for emissions, not performance............... And, your DME has more than enough “bandwidth” to bring the fuel/air back into spec without out any emission of inspection problems.
  14. We have multiple customers running the 160 stat, and I have one in my own car as well. To date, I have not seen one downside to the lower temp stat, which also happens to be the same temp range used on the GT2 and 3 cars from the factory....................
  15. First, I would comment that whoever first told you about the ripped boots did not reinforce the potential damage that would occur. With the boots torn, the grease lubricating the CV joints can come out (an usually makes one Hell of mess under the car), after which water will get in and slowly destroy the CV. You should not have continued to run the car with the boots ripped. Second, it is usually cheaper to replace the axel assemblies once the CV’s have failed then to remove, disassemble and repair them; the issue is the amount of time it take to do the axel assembly rebuild. Now comes th
  16. On a lift in a well equipped shop, 4-6 hours total is realistic; if the dealer (who must be taking a nap during the process) quotes 17.6 hours, you need another dealer..........
  17. Porsche’s so-called approved list is the last place I would look for quality oils. Time, and time again, independent used oil tests have show what a load of crap their premier approved oil, Mobil1 0W-40, really is. I would look for a10W-40 or 5W-40 full synthetic (we don’t use any Mobil 1 oils, or “0W-anything”, haven’t for years, and our customer’s cars are all the better for it) for the M96 engine, with ACEA A3, B3, & B4 ratings. There are plenty to choose from, and most are actually cheaper.
  18. Problem is that you have a cable, a hunk of wire, but not the software needed; which only lives in the PIWIS........
  19. I have Red Tops in two cars; one is over eight years old and load tests just fine, the other is three years old, also test fine.
  20. That is the correct torque; best way to do it is with an inch pound torque wrench, 7 foot pounds = 84 inch pounds, which is about mid scale on most inch pound wrenches..................
  21. Do not attempt to remove the Tip without the converter; you are asking for large problems if you attempt this. :o
  22. Jake, do you have a decent source for the two locking pins (tool #9595) required for the IMS refit; or the flywheel lock (#9538/1 engine in the car)? Having one Hell of a time sourcing these................ I am making more tools... Forget trying to get the stuff from Porsche, they don't even know what engine the tools fit! Let me know when you have them ready..............and thanks.
  23. Jake, do you have a decent source for the two locking pins (tool #9595) required for the IMS refit; or the flywheel lock (#9538/1 engine in the car)? Having one Hell of a time sourcing these................
  24. You can do the work you describe with the engine in; however, considering that you apparently intend to remove the gear box, pulling the engine out (comes out the bottom) seem to be a good idea and does not require that much more effort. The M96 is much easier to work on when it is on a stand and you can rotate it to work on various components. Suggest this would be a very good time to nail some quality upgrades like the IMS retrofit, the larger oil cooler (if you don’t already have one), the 160 stat, perhaps a new water pump, and even the new oil pump drive that LN/Raby are working on. I
  25. Ah! So it did not come from Porsche, but from Bosch. As many of our clients do not use (or want) Bosch plugs; I still stand by my statement. And, in any case, using anti seize, even on Bosch plugs, does not cause any problems.....................it simply becomes a "belt & suspenders" application. I'll find one from Porsche - have some patience I have other things to do.... and this is not on the top of my list ;) Take your time, as I said, I've heard this before but have never seen any documentation to support it from Porsche, so I'm very interested to see what you turn up.
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