JFP in PA

I'm not sure you are going to be happy about this, but, if your cam timing is off too much, the computer will see an incongruity between the crankshaft position and the cam position, which will make the DME confused, throwing off the injector pulse and ignition systems. If the car was able to run, it would promptly throw multiple codes relating to the position sensors; without being able to start it, the DME may not be getting to that point yet. Do you have a scanner capable of reading "real time" data from the DME? That should capture the position sensors issues as well............ In any case, the computer "resets" by simply removing the + battery cable for about 2 min............

Both were customer's cars, both appeared to be IMS bearing failures that led to other destruction; very similar to the earlier cars. One was under warranty, the other was not. Basically, if your engine has an IMS, you are at some level of risk; I have no knowledge of if the later cars fail any less or more, but they do fail. There is a reason why the new 9A1 is a “shaft-less” design engine……………….

My thoughts on the subject are very simple: The belt is cheap, but often not easy to find (a lot of auto parts stores don't seem to carry it in stock). If it breaks, you are stuck; it the M96 overheats, you could be screwed. Why take chances with it? Considering the potential downsides to a belt failure, we change them more frequently than the factory suggests. Pull the belt, check over the pulleys for noise and "wobble". It is simple and quick to do. If you find that the water pump or idlers are loose or noisy, take action and fix it. The idlers can be rebuilt (check the archives for info); a noisy water pump, idler, or alternator are not going to heal on their own.......................

A thought to keep in mind about the poly rib belt: It is one of the cheapest parts on the car (~$25 for the OEM unit), and it can be changed in about 20 min. by a total novice with simple hand tools. It also can both strand you and do a lot of damage to your engine if it fails. Change it regularly, and keep the old one in the car as a spare, just in case (they are not the easiest thing to find in a hurry)……….

The car can run (albeit poorly) with the cam off one tooth on the chain. But you have to remember that these are "interference engines", meaning that at some point in the system rotation, two (or more) components (valves and pistons) enter the same physical space. Obviously, you do not want that to happen at the same time. And, with VarioCam, the actual timing setting is changing while the engine is running. If the cam timing is off too much, the results are disastrous. The real issue is that you have four cams that all need to be working in concert with each other. I know of only one "proper" (e.g.: the way it is listed in the 13 volume OEM service manuals) method to reset cam timing once the system has been disturbed, and that is using one of these tool sets. I have heard of shops that have manufactured their own version of these, but the issue remains that you have to lock the engine in one position, and then set one cam, lock it down, and then adjust the other cam on the same head to match, and lock it down. Then you repeat the process on the other cylinder bank. If you have ever wondered what the strange green plugs are on the ends of the cam covers, they are for resetting the cams………………

First of all, what is in there is not a "timing belt", it is a poly rib belt that runs all the accessory drives. Make sure you have all the bolts out, and then give it a firm tug (there is a seal on the back that tends to cause it to stick to the bulkhead)............

Trying to do this by trial and error is going to be a nightmare. First of all, there are several speical tools required to time (or "allocate" in "Porsche speak") the cams. Below is the "basic" cam tool set, and none of this stuff is cheap ($600-800 for what you see). You also need to be very careful, if the timing goes off just a tad too much, pistons start hitting valves, and you have a new boat anchor..............

A common volt meter is always a good starting point; however, a load tester can do the same things as a volt meter, as well as test the diodes and regulator under high current draw conditions, and can also put the battery thru its paces as it would during an attempt to start the car; things that a volt meter cannot do......... The load tester is a much more flexible diagnostic tool.

It is a common Bosch unit, used in several makes, including MB, Audi, VW and Porsches. Check dealers and auto parts outlets............

Check the level of the battery's charge with a cheap hydrometer (less than $5) from and autoparts store; and check the level of your electrical system's draw on the battery without the car running (should only be a couple of mAmps).

The best way to evaluate this is with a battery load tester. This is a device that can check the battery's static voltage (should be around 12.5V or so) as well as the system voltage with the enigne running (should be ~14.5V). Its biggest advantage is that it can apply a 130A load on the battery which simulates trying to start the car (you apply the load for 15 sec. and what the battery's voltage output). We recently had a 911 in the shop that was doing exactly what you describe, a dealer had recommended a new alternator, battery, and starter were needed (read big $). The battery static voltage looked fine, as did the electrolyte gravity (meaning it was fully charged), and the alternator was putting out ~14.5V. But the car periodically refused to turn over. The load tester said the battery failed under the simulated load (probably an internal mechanica fault that develops under the load). We put in a new battery and the car has been fine ever since. Find someone near by that has a load tester; or consider buying one (the only cost about $50 and work on anything with a 6 or 12V battery, so it's a nice add to any toolbox)....

In good shape, the engine should compression test numbers in the low 140's (PSIG)...................

8-12% would be an extremely tight engine, with that kind of mileage 15-20% would be realistic; anything over 30% would be an issue.....

No. While it could be condensation from sitting, it could also be a sign of oil/coolant mixing, which could be anything from a failing oil cooler to a cracked head. Proceed with caution.....................

About ten bucks at Harbor Freight....................

Rather than depend upon the "approved list", which periodically adds and removes products without explanation; as well as "unapproves" products that were once golden, but now are no longer acceptable (again, without explanations), you will still find your self without much guidance. There have been far too many discussions on this topic, some become quite heated (a lot like attempting to have civil discourse on politics or religion). I've already been down this road too many times to want to wonder through that mine field yet again. If you would like to know which brands and weights I think are good (and why), send me a PM and I will provide you with the benefit of my experience…..

Have you run a load test on the battery with the Snap On MicroVAT ?

I guess I've been hanging around the BITOG site too much and assumed everyone was familiar with the terminology. UoA= Used oil analysis. There are several commercial labs that run an extensive battery of tests on oil to help you understand how they are doing under use. ACEA= European Automobile Manufacturer's Association (http://www.acea.be/index.php) based in Brussels. They represent all the gas and diesel vehicle manufacturers in the EU, and set the standards for various technical areas, including oils. What is unique about their oil rating protocols is that you must become a member to obtain a rating, the ratings are only performed by independant outside labs they have approved, the ratings sytem only tests and rates finished products, and any formulation changes require total requalifying (unlike the API which allows self testing by the manufacturers and other more slack rating qualifiers). They publish "Oil Sequences", which describe all of the required testing and what each rating lable stands for: ( http://www.acea.be/i...7_LD_and_HD.pdf) Ratings basics (the full testing requirements are too long to get into for a basics discussion, but available on line): A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe (high temp/high shear) operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer. A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3. Big advantage of the B4 rating is the inclusion of direct injection, which tends to cause higher fuel dilution of the oil. So and "A3, B3, B4" oils are for "high performance" gas engines, can stand up to severe abuse and "remain in grade" (continue to demonstrate vis range characteristics as advertised) in applications like your Porsche................

+1 On Loren's comments. We have had more than one M96 flat bedded in with cooling systems full of partially gelled crud as the result of mixing coolants. Not all brands seem to do it, but when it happens, be prepared for hours of work to clear the system, or paying a lot of $ to have a shop do it. We handle these on a strict "time and materials" pricing basis because you cannot estimate the time needed. Once you see the bill for trying to save some money on antifreeze, the OEM coolant at $24 a gallon is a real bargin..............

A dealer or an indy with a PIWIS unit........................

Mike, I bought a 2001 2.7 Boxster last summer, and although it was shifting fine, I decided to changer the transmission oil. I went with the Amzoil 75/90 and ever since the car is difficult to to get into 1st and 2nd gear until the engine warms up a little. It's a little annoying, but I'm living with it. Next time I'll go with the Mobile One. I'm assuming that's what was in there before, but all I know is that the car had been maintained by the porsche dealer up until I bought it. Geoff The factory fill is a unique full synthetic product, produced to Porsche specs, which has no aftermarket equivalent. Gear oil manufacturers, at least the honest ones, have said repeatedly over the years that they do not produce an equivalent due to the unique specs. The rest say they "have something that works"............... We have only used the OEM fill in client's cars, and have never had any issues. We have also drained M1, RP, Redline and other makes out of cars that were having shifting issues, refilled them with the factory stuff, and all the problems promptly went away. Always be cautious when dealing with aftermarket blenders, to say the least, they tend to stretch the facts more than a little.........

Wow, talk about misconceptions! First, the IMS bearing fails because it is a sealed unit by design, preventing any engine oil from getting into it. When the bearing seals begin to die, the internal lubricant leaks out, galling begins, causing the failure. Oil contamination is not a factor in how it dies. One of the early "fixes" was to remove the OEM unit and pull the seals off it so that the engine oil could lubricate it. While this helped, the basic components of the bearing were both undersized and the wrong materials; which is why the LN unit uses ceramic balls rather than steel. As for oil and change intervals, this subject has been covered many times. Mobil 1 0W-40 is a poor oil choice for several reason, one being that it breaks down in a couple thousand miles. You should be using an ACEA A3, B3, B4 rated oil that UoA's have demonstrated holds up; there are 5W-40 and 10W-40 products readily available that more than do the job and fine for any climate other than the arctic, but should still be changed between 5-10K miles..........

Oil level is now perfect. Would still like to find a better dip stick, still very hard to tell the oil level on the stick. While the digital guage is good, there is no substitute for the dip stick. If that's the case, I'd suggest hanging on to your car, later models have no dip sticks..................

Other than to identify which type of bearing you have, without physically removing the unit (using the correct method which involves locking down the engine and releasing the tensioners) and examining it for play, looseness and wobble; you really have not learned much. Both LN and Jake Raby have a lot of information on what to look for when pulling the unit, including videos. If you are going in that far, you really should have replaced it……………….

You either need the OEM PIWIS/PST II computer or a Durametric software system; nothing else will do it...................