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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You could start with a leak down test to check the sealing condition of the rings. You could also take a peek at the turbo to see if it has oil inside of it on the intake side.
  2. You’ve answered your own question: You unplugged the device and the drain went away; it is the device. As for living under the thumb of the insurance company, that is your call.........
  3. Welcome to RennTech There are four sensors, two ahead of the three way cats, two behind them. P1275 is for the sensor ahead of the three way cat on bank 1, and says it is aging out.
  4. Porsche never published any information about rebuilding these engines as they did not want that done in the field. Jake Raby runs online and in person schools on the subject, and is the only source for printed material on the required torque specs, etc.
  5. Sure: Throw away the insurance device. Besides killing your battery, anytime you drive the car anywhere near like it was meant to be driven, they will raise your rates because you over accelerated, over braked, or cornered too quickly. These things are "big brother" in action...…….
  6. The timing is controlled by software in the DME.
  7. Not necessarily; check your crank position sensor. When the CPS stops registering rotation, the DME shuts off the power to the fuel system and the ignition because it thinks the engine is not turning. And a bad CPS will not always throw codes.
  8. Refer to my July 19th posting above...……….
  9. Appears to be L/s squared, or liter per second squared, which would be a volumetric measurement.
  10. Need to see an image.....……………..
  11. I'd also be looking for wires damaged by mice.
  12. It is a UK car, which came with sirens, which also had their own batteries, which is probably the issue here. The black box is the siren, the lower box is a tilt sensor, which is apparently well known for causing problems. The unit sits next to the main battery, under a cover. Here it is out of the car:
  13. The aftermarket definitely made them in flat black.
  14. Are you sure they weren't flat black to begin with?
  15. We have worked with both the Schnell and the B&M units, personally I find the B&M unit better made and have seen far fewer problems with it.
  16. Anytime. As often quoted, the devil is always in the details...…………….
  17. Possibly, but the leak also looks pretty small.
  18. You need to wait 45-60 min. to allow the normal shutdown of systems in the car that do that to reduce drain. That process is completely normal.
  19. You need to run a parasitic drain test. Put a digital multimeter in between the battery positive terminal and the disconnected positive cable, with the meter set on mA. Wait at least 45 min. and it should read 40-60 mA. If it reads higher, start pulling fuses one at a time until it drops into that range; the last fuse you pulled is the source of your drain.
  20. Check the cable at the transmission end, those ends are known to come loose.
  21. Problem is that the fourth stalk moves on two axis; forward and back, and up and down. If the mirror switch can mimic those motions, and generate momentary contact, it might work. You would need to research the wiring as I have no experience trying to do it this way.
  22. Probably not, the stalk functions as a momentary contact switch, if the mirror selector switch is on/off in two of the four positions, that would cause the OBC to continuously cycle in those position. You are also going to either purchase a premade aftermarket wiring harnesses for the cluster to function with either a dash switch or with the fourth stalk, or make up your own. Fabing your own is going to require finding specific size pin connectors to match the connectors already in the dash. VW used to carry them. It is much cleaner to use the fourth stalk, which can actually added without taking the column apart, or simply source the four stalk multifunctional switch and replace the three stalk. We have done several of these, but always replaced the multifunction switch with the four stalk version to retain the clean factory look to the conversion. If your dash displays the outside temp, the system is active.
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