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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. No, it will not fit. There is a specific tool for the M96/97 engines.
  2. The cable Richard is referring to is just that, a cable that has no idea what is on either end of it. It also does not have an electronic interface in the middle of it, like the main Durametric cable does, so there is nothing to get in the way of it making a connection with the PIWIS.
  3. The only source for the service manuals is the factory, but they stopped printing them over a decade ago. You can still find the 13 volume three ring binder sets running around on the internet for reasonable prices:
  4. Where to begin.......... Yes, you should lock the flywheel when removing it, even though the crank is locked at the pulley end. The front crank locking pin is only 5/16 in diameter, and inserts into an alloy boss on the engine cases, so the torque to loosen the flywheel bolts could damage the pin or boss. Lock the flywheel end before starting. The “cam allocation” procedure to retime the cams to the engine runs some 12-14 pages in the service manual, so I would suggest you need to get access to this information before starting this project. We have often been brought cars where the owner’s thought they knew what they were doing, but really didn’t. The result of a small error in this process can have catastrophic results on the engine, so you need to completely understand the process and tooling required before even starting this process. Good luck.
  5. As the car is a 1999, you have a cable driven throttle. I would suggest starting there, disconnecting both ends of the cable and seeing if the problem is in the cable, the pedal, or the throttle body.
  6. OK, here goes: P1117 & 1118: Circuit resistance high on the sensor's heating elements, interruption in the heat circuits, interruption of the sensor's signal wires. P1130: A/F ratio is rich at idle on bank 2, MAF signal issue, high fuel pressure, leaking injector, EVAP purge valve stuck open. P0139 & 0159: Both sensors are not changing values as they normally should. I would do the following: Using your Durametric, check to see if one sensor on each side is show the normal voltage oscillations at idle. As you seem to suddenly have sensor signal issues on both banks, I would be looking for a wiring issue.
  7. If the system is set on automatic, this is normal behavior based upon what a sensor in the cab sees.
  8. Try listing them, the photo is very small and my eyes very old...……….
  9. Two things: We often use small nylon tie down straps to help pull stubborn bolts into alignment, and we cut a 2 1/2 inch hole beneath the drain plug to eliminate having to pull it again on manual gear box cars, but that won't help you with a Tip.
  10. Unless the plugs are properly torqued, with a dab of anti seize on the threads, they will come loose. Your message contains the magic word: "Aftermarket". We have had very inconsistent luck with aftermarket coils, and have stopped using them.
  11. The only things affected by not have TPMS sensors is your sanity from the warning messages, and the car will not pass inspection that way. Nothing else is bothered by it.
  12. Go back to the first page of this thread, the procedure is covered there. Basically, once warmed up to the correct temp range, and the PIWIS system is active, you remove a plug and wait until it stops coming out.
  13. Leak additives are band-aids, often ending up causing clogging issues in the radiator and heater cores. If your pump is leaking, replace it.
  14. Remove the muffler brackets and you should be able to get to them. Use a small dab of high temp anti-seize on the plug threads before you torque them to spec.
  15. Denso Iridium's will work fine.
  16. We stick with the Porsche branded or approved fluids. As Loren mentioned, some people have had some success with other brands, others were not so lucky and ended up with some experiencing significant issues. Porsche is a little odd in the specs they use for their transmission lubes and fluids, and I can honestly say that we have never had problems by sticking with what they recommend.
  17. It could be done from below, but you are going to need the cam retention tool set to do it, and it is going to be a whole lot of fun in the process because it is pretty tight in there. A better approach would be to drop the engine and do it on a stand, particularly as you are doing the IMS and RMS at the same time. All of these are much easier on an engine stand.
  18. Welcome to RennTech Oil in the cylinders can come from several sources, the bigger question here is are you ready to buy a car that you may have to pull the engine out of for some potentially serious work, or would your time be better spent looking for another car? If this were in my shop, I would tell the potential buyer to look elsewhere unless they are getting the car really cheap and are ready to take on a possible major engine overhaul.
  19. The spoiler issue is not related to the alarm system fault. Under the dash, to the left of your left foot is the fuse panel for the car; in the center of that panel is an up and down switch for the spoiler. Normally, the spoiler warning light comes on to indicate that either the spoiler has not extended when it should, or has not retracted when it should; and these actions are controlled by signals from micro switches in the spoiler assembly that indicate the unit's physical position.
  20. It should not have caused any damage to the gear box, just to your dignity and wallet for towing. We see this more than I would care to admit. Proper torque and some medium strength (blue) Loctite will prevent it from happening again. I would suggest also replacing all the shaft bolts and running a thread chaser through the bolt holes while it is apart. Should be a simple fix. Glad you got it sorted.
  21. Check that one or both half shafts have become disconnected. We see the bolts falling out of these after a clutch job all the time; no one seems to understand what a torque wrench and Loctite are for.
  22. Simple: Before your car was even built, Porsche had stopped producing any service information in print. The only place you can find a legitimate 2006 service manual is within the PIWIS system.
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