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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. You should always include the year and model when asking these type of questions as the diagnostic's can differ. Several possibles: Low fuel pressure or delivery volume, possible pump or fuel line issue. Early cars also had a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail that could cause issues, as well as an external fuel filter that can clog. Another would be a failing crank position sensor; when they go off, the DME does not see the engine turning and shuts off the fuel pump. You are going to need to dig in and do some testing.
  2. Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different. What you're trying to say is that finding a used identical box is impossible? No, I am not. Using your picture above: You have to find one with the exact same 3D0 909 601 D part number; the serial number (*0036 Q 002CM1T*) is does not matter as the only one with that number is the one in your photo. I apologize if I'm nagging. I'm just trying to learn as much about my box as possible. However, you can clarify your last post, I would be very grateful. it is enough that I can find a box from a Porsche Cayenne S 4,5l 2004 model with the same 3D0 909 601 D Part Number. The serial number is thus unique to each box and is only one of each? That is correct. The serial numbers are unique to each box, so they do not matter, you just want to exactly match the part number.
  3. Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different. What you're trying to say is that finding a used identical box is impossible? No, I am not. Using your picture above: You have to find one with the exact same 3D0 909 601 D part number; the serial number (*0036 Q 002CM1T*) is does not matter as the only one with that number is the one in your photo.
  4. That terminal lug is part of the starter's solenoid unit, which may be difficult to source separately from the starter. It would be worth a search however, as the solenoid is a fraction of the price of a complete starter.
  5. Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit. all the numbers on the box must therefore match? The part number must match exactly, the serial numbers (between the * *) are unique to each box and all are different.
  6. Hi Loren. Are you able to look at my picture I've attached in this thread? I would appreciate if you are able to tell you which number combinations to match. I have managed to find a couple of boxes on ebay but are unsure which numbers must conform? Have found a box where all the numbers shown true except that which stands between the "stars" With respect / Alex, Sweden The new box must have all the same exact same part numbers as your original unit.
  7. Welcome to RennTech :welcome:
  8. The special adaptor is only needed if your engine stand head does not adjust enough to accommodate the smaller shape of the M96 bell housing. Many engine stands will work just fine.
  9. Lowering the engine makes the AOS much more accessible.
  10. Some oil consumption is not uncommon on the M96, but yours sounds excessive. First thing to check is the AOS, try removing the oil fill cap while the car idles; if it is very hard to remove, you are sucking oil in through a bad AOS, which you can change out. The M96 is also known for wearing the cylinder walls on the thrust side of the pistons; if yours has gone that way, a total rebuild is the only cure. You can usually detect cylinder scoring with a simple compression test, or by using a bore scope.
  11. First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Some of the earlier PDK cars suffered what has to be described as "teething pains" that were corrected (as much as possible) with some software updates. Have your dealer check to be sure you have the latest software.
  12. You want an OEM cap whose part number ends in -04 or higher.
  13. There are several type and sizes of pin extraction tools: Amazon, amongst others, sells several of them
  14. All coolant system combustion gas tests require a running engine to get accurate results. The Lisle tester works fine, but it can be fooled by coolant getting into the tester which can lead to strange results. If you use the Lisle tester, follow the directions very carefully and watch to see if the test fluid level increases, which would be a sign that liquid coolant has gotten into it.
  15. Other than the ground fault Loren mentioned, I am also not aware of any "catastrophic failure" issues with these cars.
  16. 10% is pretty much the limit on leak down tests, so your one cylinder is highly suspect. A combustion leak tester is a good idea, I prefer the two stage Uview unit, which tends to be more accurate than single stage devices, but also costs more.
  17. A good start to getting into this is to have the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool (Durametric, PIWIS, PST II) and write down all of the codes, then let us know what you have found.
  18. P1551 is a signal interruption in the IAC; most common causes are wiring breaks, bad IAC, or a problem with the DME.
  19. Please do not quote your previous posts to try and "bump" it, that is against forum rules.
  20. That's the bit that concerns me. Is it like my 911 where it's basically 2 bolts and support the engine on a jack? Any opinions on the Numeric cables and SSK. I promised myself I was going to leave this car stock, but if I have to get in there and replace stuff, I might as well go for a mild upgrade :) Yes on the front engine mount. The after market (Numeric & SSK) cables have a lot more metal in them than the OEM does, which tends to make them much more durable and somewhat improves the shifter feel, but that move away from plastics decreases sound isolation a bit and some have complained that while the shift feels better, they are getting noise transmitted into the cabin; so they can have some trade offs.
  21. Well, like I said, it's not difficult, but it takes time; lots of time.
  22. The cables set is a bit over $400 alone, and I believe it is about 4-5 hours to change them out (it is not hard, but you need to pull the car's interior apart to get at the inside bits, lower the front of the engine, and then route the cables through the rear bulkhead to the gear box as they are one piece). The job is more aggravation and time consuming than hard.
  23. and this, Ladies and Gentlemen is why I'm not an auto technician :) Diagnosis is the thrust bearing. They also mentioned my shifter cables are very worn. Was quoted $1200 parts+labor for replacement. That seems awful high. Is it hard, or just time consuming? I'm off to go look for a good writeup... To do the thrust bearing, they have to pull the gear box out. If it were in my shop, I would recommend renewing the clutch while in there, and removing the rear seal on your non serviceable IMS bearing. $1200 is not that bad a price to replace the throw out bearing.
  24. Based upon the excessive deviation on the bank 2 cam, I would say that the P0021 code is real. What concerns me is the value as your engine would not run with a cam deviation of 90 degrees.
  25. Supposedly, on the 997, you unplug one of the two wires (I do not know which) and then you still have to fabricate a new on/off circuit to control the exhaust.
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