JFP in PA

Time to run a parasitic drain test, which has been written up multiple times, but there are also a ton of online videos : . Basically, after the car has been sitting for about an hour or so, there should be a 45 - 60 milliamp current drain on the battery from necessary things like the clock and the alarm system; any higher than that and you have a parasitic drain on one or more of the electrical circuits.

Loren showed you a section of the exploded parts diagram for the vehicle, which you can find on multiple public websites such as board sponsor Sunset Porsche.

Passengers side footwell.

According to Porsche, item #24 in the pillar is the "antenna booster", while the item you posted the photos of is item #27 is the "Antenna Diversity Control Unit" for the PCM navigation

Ever think it could be the ignition switch? The antenna amplifier is located on the right A-pillar, behind the trim which is easy to remove

As the codes seem random, I would start by looking at the fuel trims and MAF signals.

Welcome to RennTech Without the actual codes the car is throwing, anything would be a guess.

Welcome to RennTech

Or whomever did the replacement did not torque the new units with the car sitting on its wheels.

When looking at the lower pulley on the front of the engine, which direction did you attempt to turn it, clockwise or counterclockwise?

Welcome to RennTech You have a potentially major issue here; if the crank cannot be turned by hand with a wrench, either the engine is seized, or something is mechanically jamming the rotating assembly (are you sure the trans is out of gear?). If the trans was in neutral, you need to do further diagnostics into why it won't rotate, which could get into serious disassembly, including dropping the engine out. In almost any permutation as to why this is happening, you are looking at some serious $, and trying to force it to rotate will only worsen the situation. Good luck.

Sometimes you simply have to go with the factory system due to what Porsche sees as "proprietary". Glad you got it sorted 👍

Depends upon why the compressor failed, and what it damaged in the process. At a minimum, the drier, and if metal is present, the expansion valve (after the system is properly flushed to remove the metal). You will also need the correct PAG oil for the new compressor.

If the compressor had seized, you would have no cooling, and when the clutch engaged, the pulley would simply stop turning and the belt would start slipping.

The AC system clutch can be replaced separately, project was covered previously: https://www.renntech.org/topic/32732-replacing-ac-compressor-clutch/

It is a very basic system.

You would need to check each of the four circuits for continuity at the DME, there is no voltage on the circuits, and I am not aware of any resistance ratings. Another way to find it would be to create a "jumper" that you could hook up at the DME end of each circuit, as soon as the bad circuit was replaced by the jumper, the signal should stop. It is really a process of elimination.......

Porsche brake pad wear sensors function on continuity; each wheel has a wire loop running to the sensor and back to the DME. If there is a break in that loop anywhere, not just at the pad itself, you will get the sensor warning. As this sensor system runs all over the car, and the insulation is a vegetable-based coating, it is a favorite "edible" for rodents, which leads to wires getting cut.

Welcome to RennTech and Happy New Year! For street use, semi rigid motor mounts are probably a bad idea; noise and constant vibration.

Yes.

It probably is the low-pressure switch, which you can unplug and jumper temporarily to get the compressor to run.

You can pressurize it with dry nitrogen or argon with the dye for testing to limit the amount of freon leaking into the atmosphere, unless you have access to a freon recovery system, then you could use freon because you can limit the amount that escapes the system. When we get a depressurized system in the shop, we do not use freon until we know we have found and fixed any leaks, and we have a freon recovery unit.

If you had no pressure in the system to start with, there has to be a leak somewhere that has vented the gas off. At that point, just adding gas is not going to work; the system leak has to be found and repaired, then the system needs to be evacuated to a high vacuum level to get the air and moisture out before recharging with both gas and the correct system lubricant.

Welcome to RennTech, and Merry Christmas Most times the sunroof related leaks start, it is because one or more of the four corner drains is plugged and it is retaining water that would otherwise be on the ground under the car. When the car is moved with the water still in the sunroof tray, it sloshes around and shows up on the headliner. I would start by blowing low pressure air thru the drains to see if they are plugged.

Further research with ZF on the topic indicates that you are correct: 970 generation Panamera PDK transmission info: ZF is manufacturer of PDK transmission for Porsche They make 2 PDK transmissions One for mid & rear engine applications (911, Boxster, etc) Another one specifically made for the Panamera Panamera PDK servicing requires two (2) fluids only (as compared to 3 fluids in other PDK car models at Porsche FFL3 fluid - Gearbox & clutches - need about 9 quarts Shell TF0951 - Front final drive - need about 0.4 quarts Here is the info dug up from ZF on this topic: "In fact, two separate DCT ranges or 'platforms' have been developed by ZF, both fitted with wet clutches, for use in Porsche's various longitudinal applications. The first is for use in the mid- and rear-engine sports cars (the 911, the Cayman and the Boxster), while a completely different platform has been developed for use in the larger Panamera. For each platform, two different torque options are available, with the 500N.m versions using an 'ND2015' clutch pack, and the 780N.m versions using an 'ND2216' clutch pack, both supplied by ZF Sachs....... In terms of the oil circuit itself, two completely different approaches have been employed for the two platforms. Non Panamera models: The 7DT45 and 7DT70 have two oil circuits, and hence two different oils; the first is Pentosin FFL-3 for the clutch and hydraulics, and the second is ExxonMobil Mobilube PTX 75W-90 for the gear-set and bevel gear. The oil levels have been kept as low as possible, to reduce churning losses for those moving parts that are immersed in oil. Panamera: Conversely, the 7DT75 has a single oil circuit and a dry sump (to minimize churning losses), with an 'active lubrication system' to feed oil to each gear-set and clutch. This version uses only the Pentosin FFL-3 lubricant, which was developed exclusively for the ZF DCTs. One of the main reasons for using a single oil circuit is that clutch cooling is required at both ends of the transmission, for the main dual-clutch module and for the hang-on clutch used in the four-wheel-drive variant. This would have presented significant sealing complications had multiple circuits been chosen." Bottom line: What this means is that the Panamera PDK uses transmission design which uses one fluid compartment for the gearbox and the clutches, and another separate compartment for the final drive. Two fluids total.