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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Thank you, very helpful. I got the fitting loose and was able to drain it. I had someone hold the clutch pedal in for about 30 seconds, then pumped it a few times until all bubbles were clear and then tightened and was done. Is that about right? As long as it was being "pumped" with the bleeder closed, yes.
  2. Your best option is a very short double box wrench, I have a Craftsman wrench that is about 3" in length that works perfectly for this; pull the rubber cap off the bleeder, put the wrench on the fitting, then the drain tube. This way you can crack open the fitting with the wrench on it in the limited space available. Tighten the fitting when you are done, and remove the tools in reverse order.
  3. A quick caveat before we get started: Multiple codes can become a bit of an "Easter egg hunt" as two different codes alone may indicate two separate issues; but the same two codes appearing together may indicate a third and totally different issue. That said: P0150 indicates a short in the wiring for the O2 sensor ahead of the cat on cylinder bank 4-6. P1128 & 1130 indicates that the O2 sensors have reached their limit of enrichment (overly lean conditions) P1128 for bank 1-3; P1130 for bank 4-6. P1123 & 1125 indicates that the o2 sensors have reached their lean limit (overly
  4. We do it all the time, makes future service events a snap. Just be sure to use a proper tool (we use a metal panel punch) and de-burr the opening when you are done.
  5. A couple of small, but eminently salient points: 1. I did not see any "personal attacks", but I did see an appropriate reminder of the forum guidelines concerning posting protocols and decorum. 2. Everyone is entitled to their opinions, but at the end of the day, Loren's count a bit more; he owns the forum. Have a nice day...................:rolleyes:
  6. He already owns the solution to one of the major issues, the LN upgrade bearing. You can pull it from this engine and install it in another one without any issues, making the replacement basically bullet proof. If you did this swap, you would not be the first, several owners have moved the LN bearing from one engine to another without issue; in fact, some LN bearings are on their third "home". If it were mine, and as nice as you say it is, I would start looking for a good replacement engine.................
  7. First check under the car, this is a common problem area. Also below the console, check the small plastic ball that snaps on to the shifter (it can crack or split), also check the cable mounts to see if they have come loose.
  8. Seems strange that it would say the pressure is both low and implausible (does not understand the input signal). First step would be a fuel pressure test to find out where the pressure really is; if it meets specs, clear the codes and see if they come back. If the pressure really is low, further investigation will be required, possible pump replacement.
  9. Have your system pressure tested; takes 15 min. and will confirm if there is a leak, and may even be able to see it.
  10. More to the point, if whatever Jake developed actually works, and I have no reason to think it does not, it would be very useful to anyone with an M96/97 from late 2005 on until the introduction of the shaft less replacement. On these engines, the IMS bearing cannot be changed without totally disassembling the cases, which ain't exactly cheap, pretty much eliminating "preemptive" IMS replacements. But if you owned one, and there are a fair number of them, and this system has warned you of an impending failure, you would be thankful for the information, and then able to take appropriate step
  11. At one time, PPBB was probably the most Boxster focused; but with its founder's death, it kind of went off the beam and eventually was shut down. I'd have to agree that from an even handed technical perspective, RennTech is probably your current best bet, although there are other "pretenders" to the title.................
  12. That's what I was thinking; if any of the plugs in the engine came out, there should be "consequences", but you haven't mentioned any. I wonder if it was an "extra" left in there when the unit was assembled?
  13. For general use on multiple vehicles, look at Actron, great value for the money. For the best data and utility on a Porsche, go Durametric.
  14. Two things: Where have you mounted them? What pressure do you them for? I'm new to forums. Do you own / work at a Porsche repair or engine building business. I ask because of the reference to customer's cars. Thank you. In the rear boot. Slightly above max oil pressure ~60-80 PSIG. Yes, I own a business.
  15. P0600 is a Tip code, indicating that the CAN bus cannot communicate with the Tip's control module. Could be a harness unplugged, broken wiring, or the Tip control module itself.
  16. Check and make sure you did not dislodge or damage the leads to the crank position sensor (on the bell housing). If the CPS is disconnected, the DME does not know the engine is rotating, and it will not fire......
  17. The software system is reading the cam position sensors vs. the crank position sensor to determine the cam positions. I'd be looking at the VarioCam reluctor, the cam sensor on that side and the VarioCam solenoid on the same side. With the Durametric system, you can trigger the VarioCam solenoid with the engine idling, and should see the cam angle jump when you do; if it does not change, it could be at least part of your issue, as it may be stuck in one position. These, along with visually checking the cam slots can be done with the engine in the car. If the cam has mechanically jumped tim
  18. If the cam time has actually moved, it is both "not a good thing", and somewhat complicated to correct. Can it be done in the car? Yes, depending upon why it jumped, and in any case is a nightmare to do. One of the common causes of strange cam timing issues is a wobbling IMS bearing; typically the beginning of the "death dance". The cam deviation values should be rock steady at idle, as in the posting above; if they are not, it is usually the IMS on the way out. Cams do not bend, they break; the VarioCam flange bends, throwing off the cam position sensor. This can be a relatively simple
  19. I'd bet more on the drain being blocked by either debris or mold, common on these cars in very hot, humid climates. Wurth and others make some stuff that you can spray into the system that will both clean it and kill any odors at the same time. You can see the drain line from below the car and can blow some air through it to clear it before spraying in the cleaner.
  20. The sensor has a test diagnostic (voltage should read between 100 and 800 mV, ohmmeter on pins 1 & 2 should read 1.8-2.5 ohm, pin 1 to sensor housing should read infinite ohms ), test it to see if it is good or not; if it checks out, you probably have a wiring issue elsewhere.
  21. To my knowledge, Flat Six (Jake Raby) keeps records on the cars they actually do. LN may have records of who they sold the bearings to, but without verification by the shop that actually installed it , anyone can claim to have the upgrade. We get requests for this from time to time and provide a written record of when it was done. And, no, there is no way to verify if a car has one without pulling the gearbox, clutch and flywheel out..................
  22. Most good auto parts shops carry them, and they can help you with the size. Shops like Fastental (all they sell is fasteners) are an excellent source as well, and the inserts are also available on line.
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