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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. The "Northwest Passage" in the heads is a critical component in the X51 package, the pan a baffle alone really don't add much other than a small increase in total oil capacity. I'd also suggest doing some searching, another shop (EBS) recently released a very nice looking stainless steel baffle assembly that has gotten some good press.
  2. When checking the heads, be sure to closely look at the small diameter freeze plugs under the cam covers, they can be a major source of headaches to the point that some shops are machining and threading them to accept screw in replacements.
  3. It just pops off; made out of rubber, it just snaps over the bleed valve.
  4. If your car is still the 01 Boxster in your signature, it is an e-gas car, so the pedal is bolted to the floor and attached to a small electronic unit that sends a signal to the DME. Perhaps it is binding or the module has an issue?
  5. There are three purge valves; the cannister purge valve, the air purge, and the operating purge valve. All of these should be under the emissions components.
  6. I have no idea, I do not use that version of the software, and I have no issues resetting the service reminders. To my knowledge, version 5 is not the most current “enthusiast” software. It sounds as though the version 5 is resetting the DME, but not the physical display in the dash for some reason. Pulling the fuse will force the dash display to reread the DME when it powers up, and will find the alert gone and stay clear. You might want to drop Durametric an email for further explanations; they have been pretty responsive in the past.
  7. P21S gel wheel cleaner; spray on, rinse off, wipe dry; done.
  8. When the slave fails, they sometimes leak internally. When this happens, insufficient hydraulic pressure is developed to operate the clutch, but there are no external signs of leakage. The slave simply no longer pushes hard enough to work the pressure plate and release the disc.
  9. You may have a dying slave cylinder, not totally uncommon. A realtively simple DIY project to replace, you may want to search the archives for write ups......
  10. Did you hold the clutch pedal to the floor while bleeding the slave cylinder?
  11. Do you know which valve it is and the part number ? There are multiple valves in the system, you need to check for pending codes and do a little diagnostics to see what is up.
  12. Try research "EVAP system" for the car. It carries a charcoal cannister and series of valves and lines that capture fuel vapors from the system and route them into the intake to be burned. The system noramlly operates under vacuum, which is probably the source of the sound, although I'm surprised it has not thrown a code............
  13. The is a unused plug and harness behind the center console that is for the OEM telephone, it has both switched power and a ground if you need one.
  14. Usually, it is only the voltage regulator, but you sometimes encounter bad diodes as well. The correct diagnostics would be to load test the battery, then load test the alternator (requires a load test tool), which will evaluate the regulator as well as showing the diode activity (or lack there of). Tool cost between $50-100 US and works on any car. I am also not sure of what you are saying in you post about running the car with the battery "plugged", but I can assure you that if you run the car and disconnect the battery while it is running, you are in for trouble........
  15. No, only a PIWIS unit or the Durametric software can do it; nothing else works.
  16. A brownish tan to light grey color is indicative of a slightly rich than normal combustion condition. Darker colors (dark brown, grey, or even sooty black) indicate a possibly slightly over rich condition on that bank. If the color change is limited to one bank only, I would be looking at potentially “aged” O2 sensors on that side (it is highly improbably, but not impossible, that all three cylinders are suffering injector issues or some type of oil leakage simultaneously). Fortunately, testing for aging O2 sensors (they become “aged” when they lose their response rates, causing the air/fuel ratios to go slightly out of range) is a simple task using a PIWIS or Durametric system, which can quickly pinpoint which sensor(s) need to be replaced.
  17. The car has too many "concerns"; RFM is correct, there are many others out there to choose from that would have no concerns. I'd pass on the car............
  18. More than just a couple hours, and I doubt the OP would be doing it himself, so there would be considerable expense involved....
  19. Without a proper check out, I do not buy "catastrophic failure" has occurred. No intermixing has happened, so the water jacket must be intact. As far as "the car must not have compression", prove it. I'd bet it still does, and in spades. If it had no compression, it would spin over very quickly and sound funny while it was doing it, which you have not mentioned. Have them dump and save the oil and filter, if they look good, I’d still bet the engine is intact. Big time failures leave evidence. Have them test the coolant for freeze point, take about 1 min. and most shops do it for free. If it isn't at least -10F, you may have momentarily overheated the car due to poor coolant condition allowing a freeze. Have them put the car up in the air and show you where the coolant is leaking from; unless there is physical damage (cracking or a hole), it can still be a freeze up. You may just have a blown hose or water pump, and nothing else. The hard start may or may not even be related to the overheat.
  20. On what basis are they saying that the engine is "shot"? We get a couple 986's a month that come into the shop after the water pump quits, and there is rarely anything more to it unless the car was severely overheated, or shows signs of intermixing. There is no such thing as a coolant pressure sensor, the pressure is regulated by a valve in the coolant cap, and there is nothing in the car that will turn it off if the cooling system is open to the atmosphere. I am also concerned about your comment that coolant was leaking at the passenger's side front of the car, which is a sign that one of the radiators or hoses has let go, possibly due to freezing if the coolant protection level is not correct. That may not be a good sign as freeze ups can cause localized overheating, which these engines do not like, but which is not always fatal either. I am not over impressed by your shop's approach. While a compression test is a good idea, I would also be pressure testing the cooling system (takes about 15 min. or so) to determine what and where the leakage is, as well as testing the coolant to see if a freeze up was even possible. If your shop cannot map out a more reasonable diagnostic pathway, and continues their scare tactics, I think it may be time to take it to someone that has some idea what they are doing...............
  21. At this juncture, he has little to lose, but is considering spending a lot money to replace an IMS bearing that may not be bad or the source of the knock. The cam deviation values at idle only take a couple of seconds to acquire, and could totally eliminate the IMS as the source of the issue. If the deviation values are steady, it is time to shut it off and pull the engine...........
  22. You need to get the DME scanned and post the codes, without them, anything would be a pure guess..........
  23. If you have significant ferrous metal in your oil filter, either from the IMS or another source, just swapping out the IMS bearing is not a good idea as you need to get all of the debris out of the engine before it starts tearing up other things. Unfortunately, that means pulling the engine and disassembling it for a total clean out and rebuild, which should include the IMS update along with several other updated components. Just one piece of iron circulating with the oil can start a process leading to some serious heartache in these engines. Some people have gotten away with pulling the sump cover and cleaning out all the crap when an IMS goes bad, but they tend to be the exception; the IMS retrofit was designed to be done before the bearing is toast, not after. I am also concerned about what you describe as a “knock”; typically an IMS makes a metallic rattling sound more akin to a coffee can full of bolts being shaken rather than a knocking sound; I think you may be facing a more serious issue like a rod bearing on the way out. If it is, and you updated the IMS, the rod would still fail anyway, and probably ruin the new IMS bearing as well in the process, even if it did not destroy the block, which is very common. If your car was in my shop, I would check the camshaft deviation values at idle to see if they are stable an within spec; if they were, indicating the IMS was still good, I would recommend pulling the engine before the failing component turns the assembly into a boat anchor………
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