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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Being second to market is not as simple as it looks. It is often quite easy to copy a proven solution to a known problem and offer it a lower cost; the hard part is usually the associated support required (special tools, technical support, training installers, remotely trouble shooting blown installations, etc.,). The second part is where you both earn (and typically spend) the profits garnered in the first section................
  2. If you suspect the fuel system (pump. etc.), it is a 5 min. test to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the test port and check it . A quick scan with either a PIWIS or Durametric system should also tell you about any pending codes that might be related, as well as test just about everything else you have mentioned............
  3. I don't think they make one.
  4. I wuold still take the time to check the cables; bad cables will not only continue the problem, they can also hurt the new alternator. A few min. with a multimeter is all it takes to test the cables for excessive resistance.
  5. You can use any dielectric grease (couple of bucks at any auto parts store), which is nothing more than a silicone grease that is compatible with plastics and rubber. Works fine.
  6. I'd also take a look at where the cables attach to the gearbox, they are held in by clips that sometimes pop open, resulting in the cable not moving the selector. Quite often, they can just be snapped back into place and everything is fine.
  7. I'm not sure if they can be obtained by themselves. I'd give someone like Sunset Porsche parts a call.
  8. Simple, one of the largest threats to these engines is an IMS bearing failure, which starts by producing significant amounts of a very granular ferrous debris before the bearing itself actually fails and kills the engine. Because the oil system in these engines routes the oil through the oil pump before it goes to the filter, this granular metal wreaks havoc on the oil pump gears, sometimes even totally jamming the pump and shearing off the oil pump drive, ending any oil circulation in what was up to that time still a viable engine. Because the LN magnetic drain plug uses a large and very powerful neodymium magnet, it can collect even small amounts of this debris before it gets circulated and alert the person servicing the car that further investigation is required.
  9. Do you have a recommendation for a magnetic plug?Thanks! We like the LN Engineering unit; very well made with a strong magnet.
  10. Next change, add a magnetic drain plug; cheap insurance and a diagnostic tool all in one.
  11. I checked the cam deviation values. Both are steady at 0 degrees. With that being the situation, most likely it is not the IMS bearing. To find the source, you are going to need to do some digging. Have you pulled the sump cover off yet?
  12. There are a multitude of potential ferrous sources in these engines, but I would pull the sum cover and also check the cam deviation values as well.
  13. Oil temp is the most important of the two. Because these cars use an oil to water oil cooler system, and the fact that oil will always take longer to warm up, the oil temp will always lag the coolant until everything is at full temp. Then the oil will always be hotter than the coolant.
  14. Every time someone calls the shop about removing "a simple broken bolt", I cringe. As Mike noted, this job could go either way: simple or horrific. You never know why the bolt broke; was it the wrong bolt (very common on these water pumps) and it bottomed and also cracked the case before breaking? Was the bolt the wrong thread size/type, and buggered the hole before failing? Basically, you have no idea what you are going to get into until you get there……
  15. the letter is written in a typical Japanese business letter format and Porsche Japan is used in the body of the letter as well as at the top right corner. the phone number in the letter corresponds with Porsche Japan's customer care center. my car has been to the dealer and the contents of the letter confirmed with them. I see the use of Porsche Japan on the letter head, but could you highlight where it appears in the text? Perhaps I missed it.........
  16. Actually, the “official” PCNA position remains that you cannot replace any IMS bearing without splitting the cases…….. What intrigues me is that all “official” letters from Porsche I have ever seen always reference the authority issuing the notification (Porsche Cars, Porsche Cars North America, etc.) somewhere within the body of the text; this one does not.
  17. With the car at idle, try and remove the oil filler cap; if it is extremely difficult, your AOS is dead.
  18. You should be able to get at that and remove it once the water pump is out of the way. Before considering dropping the engine, I would buy either a right angle drill chuck adaptor or a right angle drill (cheap one from somewhere like Harbor Freight), which would give you access without moving the engine.............
  19. Not sure on that one, may want to do a DIY search here to see what others have posted.............
  20. Depends upon which cable is bad, none of them are any fun to change, but you can ususally get at them without dropping the entire engine. Small hands, patience, and getting some things out of the way helps. Not a difficult process, but a time consuming one.
  21. I'd be looking at those cables, we replace them fairly frequently due to high resistance; plus they are cheaper than a new alternator, which still would not work properly on bad cables.
  22. A perfect (e.g.: brand new or totally rebuilt with new diodes, etc.) will idle over 14+V with nothing on. As more stuff is switched on, it starts to load the alternator and pulls the output down until the voltage regulator kicks it back up, but it still would stay in the high 13's to low 14V range. Your alternator sounds like it is OK, but not fully up to snuff as it is dropping the voltage down to near battery only voltage levels (12.4V) with a heavy current draw on it, or 13.5V after the car is warmed up, but without load. 13.5V is right at the bottom of the acceptable range. I would be taking a look at both your power and ground battery connections, looking for signs of corrosion or any significant resistance (use a digital multimeter to test); these cars are well known for having cable end problems. If memory serves, I think there was a TSB on the subject as well as "improved" battery and starter cables released to address the resistance problem.
  23. Guys, aren't you making this just a little over complicated just so you can use your iPad? I mean, a computer talking to another computer just so the data looks pretty? At the end of the day, if the software says "P0491" on a Turbo car, it does not matter if it came from a Cray super computer or a yard sale laptop, question becomes what do you do next to fix the car. With the world going more towards tablets every day, Durametric will follow suit in some fashion eventually.............
  24. I, for one, would love to see a translation from Kanji. If this is correct, and from a legitimate Porsche authority, it would be the first time I have ever seen their acceptance that there really is an IMS problem. Most dealers here will not discuss the matter, and many still claim that it is not possible to update the pre 2006 IMS without disassembling the entire engine (PCNA's "official" position).
  25. Most of the start up related noises in the M96/87 engine family have typically been related to the cam drives. Some have had cam follower (read lifter) problems, but that is a noise that does not always go away. Do a search on the subject of the paddle wear pads, it is a common item that causes noise, cam deviation values out of spec, and debris in the oil filters. Sometimes they even totally fail:
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