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rb101

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Everything posted by rb101

  1. I would just keep watching the filter and change it again in a few months. With only 20K of mileage, I can still see a bit of crap from the manufacturing and breaking in of the engine still in the oil system. Are you sure the flakes are ferrous and are attracted to the magnetic or just not oily and sticking to the magnet due to oil?
  2. I think you had a cylinder wall failure in #5 and the piece was pounded around by the piston. Hopefully the engine has no other damages and can be sleeved.
  3. Mine has the port, it's in the same location as your 2000 picture. There should be a port on each head for the 1-3 is a solid plug, 4-6 is the oil pressure sender.
  4. Great to hear you and the car have fully recovered. If you don't mind me asking was was your total cost for the LN upgrades.
  5. I just looked up the tensioner blade and pad are the same from 98-07, so I don't know, it looked fully extended when I pulled the new style out after reading the TSB.
  6. When I did the major maintenance (Dec 2009), I put in all new units including the latest IMS chain tensioner. The 1-3 and 4-6 looked exactly like the older models except the 4-6 used a allen wrench instead of the 24mm or 32mm head (not at home at the moment to confirm the part numbers). Later on I saw the tech bulletin and talked to a few of the dealer mechanics and they cited the tech bulletin. I decided to order the older version and when I replaced the new version with old. When I pulled the new version, it looked like the piston was at the end of its bore. Just me thinking here, the new version is made for a newer version of the tensioner arm that sticks out closer to the tensioner. I know other people are using it, but the tech bulletin was put out for a reason. If some one has access to the new tensioner arm and old, it would be nice to get an actual measurement of how far the contact point extends.
  7. There is a aluminum crush washer in there. I would not think they would leak unless it has been messed with.
  8. Your oil pressure sensor has gone bad. Replace it. I doubt that transmission work could have damaged the wiring as it goes into the engine harness not near the transmission.
  9. You need to get a bigger cheater, like a 6ft piece of pipe. If you have to use an extension, try to support it so it will pivot and not want to push down. And finally good tools will pay for them self over the years.
  10. Have you checked the heater core? Do the windows fog up easily?
  11. Well I'd be concerned that the timing is off on one side as cyl 4,5,6 are miss firing, and I don't see all 3 coils going bad on that side at once. All the other codes are for O2 sensors.
  12. I know that gulf Fabrics in Tampa FL does have Alcantra. I can't vouch if it will match your color, buy give them a call http://www.gulffabrics.com/
  13. There is no way I would buy my 16 year old son a 996. Look back at your youth and see how much buffoonery you did at that age. I can remember many stupid events I did in a old car, if I had a 300+ hp car I would be dead. I was in 3 accidents (1 my fault) all while I was 16 (hit by a drunk driver, rear ended, and put a truck on it's side on the side of a mountain (driving to fast on gravel)). My almost 18 daughter drives my old 944 (and she has had two small accidents (backing into a car at school and taping a mail box). Get your son a SAFE/slow car (civic/focus) and let him get some experience in driving on a crap car before you get him a nice car when he graduates college. Just my 2 cents... Rick 99 996C4 87 944S
  14. +1 on tire rubber and perfectly normal. Rick 99 996 C4 87 944S
  15. I'm sitting at 116K miles. At 105K I replaced the water pump, AOS, clutch, IMS bearing, RMS, chain tensioners and cam chain pads for about $2500. This has been a very reliable car, never lest me stranded (knocking on wood now), even my daughters 944S (87 with 180K) has only needed a starter, A/C compressor and timing belts (X2) replaced in about the last 7 years.
  16. If you are still dripping coolant, then you still have a problem, and it's probably a cracked tank or water pump. As for the stuff inside the oil filler cap, it's condensation from water being cooked out of the oil. The coolest part of the engine is the oil filler tube and any moisture collects and condenses there. This is normal and the amount can be reduced by running the car longer to get the engine up to temp. Short trips allow water to build up in the oil.
  17. If you can push start the car then it's not immobilizer problems. Have you changed the starter yet?
  18. Rick, thanks very much for the info and the links. Since I am not experiencing the symptoms of a failed AOS, I figured that I would attempt simply replace the bellows and then replace the AOS in the spring when I am planning to drop the engine and transmission to do a IMS upgrade and various other tasks. Incidentally, I was quoted 8 hours of labor to replace the bellows at the time of my PPI... OUCH! Thanks again! Cheers, Tom It's about a 30 minute job if you can get underneath the car.
  19. You can replace the boot from underneath using standard worm clamps. It's a pain, but can be done, I did mine about 2 years ago and replaced the whole AOS last year. Here are a few links.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8834&hl=bellows http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=13011&hl=oil+separator
  20. Be prepared to replace a few spark plug tube o-rings. You should see oil in the tubes if they are leaking.
  21. Very true, the AOS is ondriver side front, but one of the lines (#4) from the AOS runs to head 4-6 by the A/C compressor and goes into a port with a vent (#6). Sometimes when the AOS goes bad, oil is blown from that vent. If you look around to the right side of the A/C compressor, you will see the vent
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