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crwarren11

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Everything posted by crwarren11

  1. It does look to be in good shape. I don’t recall mine being yellowed. It was simply cracked and leaking annoyingly into the trunk. Mine lasted 8yrs and 80k mi mostly in Southern California. It has now been another 10yrs on the new one but only 30k mi. As for the running temp I would say that it runs cooler for longer at the start especially. It is usually right at the 180 mark on the gauge and after a long time it might creep up to that spot right between the 8 and 0 but I have yet to see it go higher than that after the new thermostat. I used to consistently run at the far right side of the 0, so guessing around 195F, with the old thermostat. It makes sense that eventually after a long run that the new thermostat is not going to do anything to help. Another important thing to consider for running temp is cleaning out the front radiators. It is easy to remove the front bumper to access them. There is a diy in this forum.
  2. Ok thanks. I did check them out but always hard to tell what the quality will really be like unless someone has some experience with them. My upholstery guy wants $2500 to do both seats.
  3. Ok thanks! I’ll probably just order pre-emptively. Is the part with the ball bearings inside (I forget the name) prone to failure?
  4. Thank you! I will check it out. Anything else to do while I’m in there? Bump stop, etc?
  5. I know it's been a while, but leatherseats.com no longer has a Porsche section. Any other resources that anyone would recommend for redoing seats? I see many doing a search, but it is hard to know which ones provide good products. Thanks!
  6. 2000 Boxster, 110k miles. Longtime contributor here and original owner. Hoping someone can help with this annoying issue. I have a recurring grinding noise (maybe it could be described as groaning) during steering which is coming from the front right of the car. I lifted the car and listened for the noise while having my wife steer...of course there was no noise, likely because there is no load on the front end when lifted. Duh. I can only hear it at very low speeds (pulling in/out of the garage; parking; etc.). I figured it was a bad ball joint so I replaced the control arm (996 341 053 17) and track rod (996 347 131 04) as most likely culprits. The sound seemed to go away for a couple of days, but it is back (well, I guess it never really went away). Should I just go ahead and replace the control arm link (996 341 043 06) as the next step? Any other ideas? Is this potentially an issue with the power steering gear? Any tips for further diagnosis?
  7. 1. Use gasket sealant or no sealant? No sealant when I did mine just the new gasket which you will need to cut off the correct section. I like to lube the gaskets just a bit with silicone but that’s just me. 2. Should I replace the coolant reservoir even though I cannot find anything wrong with it? Well, just depends on your philosophy. Wait until it goes or do it preemptively. Mine went some years ago and it is a bit of a pita, and since your coolant will all be drained anyway, I would probably do it. I'll replace the thermostat at the same time. 3. Should it be the 160 degree thermostat? Yes, that’s what I used. Car runs much cooler which is nice especially on hot days. I don’t think there is a performance benefit that I know of. 3a. I notice that the car runs between 190 - 210 degrees (using Scangauge) most of the time in warm weather, so will the 160 stat be a benefit? It will definitely run cooler. 4. Which hoses should be replaced? Just check for deterioration or signs of leaked coolant. I did not replace any at the time I did mine and all is still good at 18yrs and 110k mi. 5. Anything else? Get the latest coolant reservoir cap and follow the procedure for filling and bleeding. I like to use the vent valve open for a few days to bleed the air then refill after all cools off. Otherwise it can be a huge mess. Use the right coolant, doesn’t have to be Porsche but the correct type, which I cannot recall offhand. Someday I hope to do the new stalk as well but haven’t gotten there yet!
  8. Hi guys, Finally getting around to replacing the transmission mounts on my 2000 Boxster Tiptronic. I had priced this out a while back and had planned to buy the mounts only, without the brackets. The price for the mounts has basically tripled since the last time I looked and my usual sources are mostly out of stock. So, doing some digging and I hear that many people have replaced their 986 transmission mounts with the engine mount from a 993 (p/n 993-375-049-09). However, the only references I see are specific to the manual transmission and I do not see anyone who has confirmed that this would work on the Tiptronic. Given that the Tiptronic mounts are sold as Left and Right, I suspect it will not work (but I'm hoping, fingers and legs crossed, that maybe it will since these are 1/3 the cost)? Can anyone confirm if the 993 part will fit the brackets on the 986 Tiptronic transmission mounts? Also, has anyone tried the mounts from Function-First? It also came up in my search and $250 for the pair seems reasonably priced. Thanks!
  9. Agree with JFP. I have been down this path and it never worked out properly. I would also advise to go with the Porsche part on this one. I have tried the knock-offs and they also failed very quickly.
  10. Did you have the codes read? If you have durametric it will read the transmission codes if there are any. These won’t result in a CEL on the display but could still be stored. I would check that to see if that gives you any ideas. Could be a solenoid issue or one of the sensors on the valve body. Sometimes clogs on a solenoid or something as simple as a bad o-ring on the valve body can cause similar behavior. I would also ask if there was any fiber residue in the retrieved ATF which could indicate wear in the fiber discs inside the trans. Did he also change the trans filter?
  11. For me, I would say that the switch pulls out to two positions. One for front fog lights and then the second for the rear fog light.
  12. No pressure wash, just some engine cleaner and a hose to rinse. Wiped down the plastic and rubber parts with a maguire’s protectant after drying.
  13. On the cleaning, I really didn't have an issue with the debris getting in the car. Dropped a large blanket over the top and back window. Disconnected the battery before wash and waited until dry before reconnecting. That was really the only special step. Regarding your codes, I had the same codes in the past and it was small tears in the rubber intake boots, #28 in the diagram below (996-110-686-01). It was an amusingly frustrating process to identify. I finally found the small tear on one side, replaced that one with a new one, and in my infinite wisdom decided to tighten the ring clamps around the other one - causing that one to rip also. With the first, small tear, the change in idle/performance was unnoticeable, but enough to throw the codes. After ripping the second one, it was a very rough idle, nearly leading to stall. I mention this again because of the visible oil around your intake and boots. You might have some deterioration of the rubber there and small cracks/tears giving you the codes. Just a thought... If you do find this to be the issue, I recommend replacing all four of the rubber boots, 2x #28 and 2x #10 (996-110-685-01). Check the p/n's as these may not be correct for your model year. I highly recommend RMeuropean for parts, as they come to me tax-free in CA with next day shipping.
  14. Just in case this helps, I have a picture of my engine bay when my car was about 10yrs old (2000 Boxster). I did not have any of the signs of oil around the intake like you do, although it was not as dirty as yours which may actually help you in identifying a possible leak. I cleaned out my engine bay as well a couple of years ago. Picture also attached for reference.
  15. Simply in relation to the CA smog. Having gone through this before with other vehicles, I suggest paying your registration on time. You will get a notice saying smog still needs to be done but this way you will avoid the late fees or the fees to bring the car out of the non-operating vehicle category which can be a real PITA. Not that I would recommend it, but depending on your area you can pretty easily find some shops which are willing to pass you for a little extra coin.
  16. This is not something I’ve ever run into, so take this with a grain of salt, but you could try one of those battery chargers that run through the cigarette lighter receptacle.
  17. I'm about 4 months into my 2015 turbo. I really enjoy it. It's got incredible power. I wouldn't call it a downside but some may not like that you can't really feel the speed and acceleration. It is so smooth it is shocking sometimes to look down and see you're over 100. 100 feels like 50! The pdk is very impressive. My wife can drive it like a lady and I can push it hard and it handles both perfectly.
  18. Water pump and low temperature thermostat upgrade. Water pumps should be replaced every 30k as preventative maintenance. Update coolant reservoir cap to latest version. AOS may be an issue with your puff of smoke but doesn't sound serious by any means. I would just do it as needed. Highly agree on the debris removal from the front radiators and brakes fluid every two years. Some might also suggest an oil change once a year but if you only drive one month a year not sure that is necessary.
  19. Assuming it is the regulator, I recommend using the Porsche part. I've tried cheaper knock offs and they are pretty horrible. You don't want to repeat his job several times due to a subpar regulator
  20. I wouldn't suspect a bad switch yet. Maybe an improperly assembled switch or something in the wiring from the previous replacement process. Durametric will clear tiptronic codes and give you a solid read on the fault. As others have said sometimes just clearing the codes and making sure the battery is good will make it all better.
  21. Are you sure your leak is ATF? There is no source for ATF leak near the front of the car. It may be dripping from the back and pooling on the under cover but the actual leak would have to be somewhere in the rear if it is coming from the transmission. My other guess is that it could be power steering fluid.
  22. Electric whine sounds like it may be the secondary air pump. But if that were the issue I'd expect you to have a check engine light on.
  23. I highly recommend Durametric for scanning. Much cheaper and faster than going to Porsche every time.
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