crwarren11

I finally got some work in on this and replaced the rear control arms aka control arm link / track arm (986-331-043-07). Solved the popping/cracking issues and resolved a lot of the other vibrations and rattling. I have not seen other posts that talk about these symptoms being caused by the control arms, so just wanted to pass along.

Wow, look at that masking job!

Try using the 993 module instead of the 986. It has worked for me but technically speaking it comes with some risks from what I have been told. I have read and cleared codes on my 986 with the 993 module in durametric and the 986 module has never worked for the airbag.

Not sure this helps at all as I am more familiar with bmw ecu and programming but in most of the obd2 software for bmw you can set the ecu to ready for all necessary conditions. I haven't seen this option in Durametric, but maybe someone with more familiarity with the Porsche programming could comment on if that exists. It would help even in terms of you being able to look at the obd2 to see if all shows ready condition before you go back for another smog check.

Trying not to write a long response on how ridiculous the CA smog check has become...I agree with JFP, sometimes these cars take a long time to reset to ready. I would give it at least a week and 100mi before trying again. If you don't pass next time then PM me. Also don't forget about the bar snap test they do for smoke. They technically should let the car idle for 15min and then rev it to floor three times. If there is any smoke at the exhaust they will fail you for that as well. Visual test so completely subjective to the tester. Brilliant method.

Hmmm, well that might crush my theory, but I'd say probably still worth checking the switches, relays, and fuses to see if something is wrong there instead of with the alarm itself.

I would check this switch (assuming you have a left-hand drive car) "window drop down microswitch on door handle": 996-613-126-00 (#14 in the image below, ~$40 part): Also, read both of these links first (at least the parts about troubleshooting the switches, relays, and fuses): http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/76-BODY-Door_Panels/76-BODY-Door_Panels.htm It doesn't look like the image link is working, try this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/uploads/downloadedimages/window%20switchjpg.html

Based on the issues with the window not going down, I'd say to check the door/window switch that indicates to the car if the door is open or closed. Sorry I don't recall off-hand the p/n, but I will look into it further and post what I find. It sounds to me like the car doesn't know that the door is open/closed...but it thinks that the door is open which is why the alarm is beeping during arming. A closed door would typically make the window go up; the open door would make it drop. Is the window at the fully closed position or in the "open door" position (~1" drop)?

Agree, check the cap and the tank for cracks.

Where did it throw up from? Expansion tank in the trunk or underneath the car? What did the coolant look like? Normal color? First thought is heater valve 928-574-573-03 but depends where it came from.

2000 986 Tiptronic, nearly 99k miles. I am getting an annoying popping/cracking sound coming from the left rear. While driving it sounds like it is high in the suspension, possibly related to the shock absorber, shock absorber mount, or spring. I only hear the noise at low speeds - going over speed bumps or backing out of my driveway in the morning. I know it is difficult to pinpoint what the issue could be by just my description, so I am hoping that someone else has heard this noise and it is obvious to someone who has experienced it before. It could be as simple as a bad shock/strut, but I've never had one go out so I don't know what it sounds/feels like. The car seems to respond correctly to the push test (push down and it reflexes back to height). I also checked the nut at the top of the tower which I saw on several posts could be loose, but it was completely tight. Sway bar, bushings, mounts, all appear to be good. I took several videos hoping that it might help identify where this is coming from. I can replicate the sound by jacking up the rear end and then lowering. You can actually hear popping on the way up too, but it is very noticeable on the way down. Please let me know what you think could be the culprit! Lowering the back end: http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_4889x.mp4 Lowering the back end, view2: http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_4895x.mp4 Jacking up the back end and lowering (notice clicks/pops on the way up): http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_4894x.mp4 From inside the car, going over a speed bump (sounds more like a squeaking/cracking at 4 seconds): http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/9BCBAE06-7C41-4BB3-A592-EAD3997C58F4.mp4

Yes

mikefocke, interesting comment and I know you follow these issues closely. I could be confused or may have been mislead. I don't have the service records on me, but in my electronic log I have it noted as "rear main seal and intermediate shaft leaking, both replaced." It has been a while since I revisited the record, but I remember it being very vague. I do remember, though, the service advisor saying "you won't have to worry about that IMS bearing now." Since then and after years of reading about the IMS bearing issue, I always believed mine had been resolved. But maybe not? Service bill was $4,700 in 2001, covered under warranty. I might have to refresh my memory on the IMS bearing symptoms as I'm nearing 99,000mi. covertaxn, sorry it didn't work out, that seems like a high price to pay for a '99 with issues.

I agree with most of what "nut" said and maybe can provide some more input. If seller has maintenance records, you should be able to see if the IMS issue was previously dealt with before running into problems. As the original owner on my 2000, they performed that service under warranty pretty early on to avoid future problems. Valve covers isn't something I've done yet on my Boxster. Most people recommend dropping the engine for that or just living with it. It can be done in the car, but I hear it is a pain. You might see if it is just the spark plug tubes that need replacing...those are pretty simple to do and it is probably due for a spark plug service anyway unless it has been done recently. There would be a pretty big cost in doing the valve covers at a shop, but if you DIY then it's just your time and not a lot of expense. I've done them on my BMWs and it isn't a fun job, but doable for sure. I just did the window regulator last week. I got a $150 part from rmeuropean. It was a reasonable job and a few hours of my time. I have replaced oil fill tube on mine and it was pretty straightforward for the "upper" portion. It just snaps into place and it resolved my leak, so I didn't do the lower portion which appeared to be more effort to get to. The parts were pretty cheap as I recall, less that $50 each, so less than $100 total and even that may be a stretch. Fuel cap is $12. The visor mirrors frequently break. I went through at least two on both sides while under warranty and they were replaced for free. Since my warranty has long run out, both of mine are broken again. Depending on what is broken, you can just get the inserts, otherwise it's about $100 for each one. I have seen some on ebay for $50. Tires are a big expense, I always get good ones, though, Z-rated Michelin or Pirellis. Rears run $300+ea and fronts usually $200+ea, so easily $1000 for all four. Many times the fronts don't need to be done, though, so just take another look at those before replacing...assuming you get the car. I also wrench on BMW's so many things are similar between the makes. Boxster access is usually a lot more cramped, but it is a fun car to work on, and they really made a lot of things very simple to service compared to the equivalent job on the BMWs. Good luck with your offer...let us know how it goes!

http://s779.photobucket.com/user/crwarren11/media/Porsche/9BCBAE06-7C41-4BB3-A592-EAD3997C58F4.mp4.html Here is a link to a short video of me going over a speed bump.

2000 986 Tiptronic, nearing 99,000mi. I replaced the front engine mount about 2,000mi ago which made a signification improvement in vibrations, noises, etc. that I was having then. I have lately been experiencing what I would call drivetrain sway at shifting, basically like I can feel everything continue to rock back and forth after a shift, either up or down, or during a quick acceleration it feels like things are still moving behind me. I'm thinking maybe it is the transmission mounts, but I have read all the posts and it sounds like it is rare that these go bad on a 986. Another symptom I have is that there is occassionally a clunking/cracking/creaking noise that sounds like it is right behind my head (left side, U.S. car), especially when I go over speed bumps or back out of my driveway, so apparently when there is some uneven load on the rear wheels/suspension. Thoughts? Transmission mounts or something else?

Agreed, definitely the regulator. I just did this job last weekend. Not too bad, really. A couple of finicky things, but you did the most time consuming part in getting the panel and foam off. One tip that really helped me was to put blue painter's tape to mark where the window should line up in the regulator - put it both on the top edge and one of the side edges of each bracket. This completely eliminated all the fiddling with aligning the window after you get the new regulator in. I used the Uro replacement, cost ~$150 on rmeuropean, works and sounds great. One other note...don't forget to plug the sensor plug back into the connector where the latch pull connects (small, black two-wire plug). I did this the first time and it makes the car think the door is open...duh. There is not much lead on that plug, though, and it disconnected by itself when I pulled the panel off, so I wasn't aware of it when I put the door back together. There also isn't much lead on it, so it's a litte bit of a pain to plug back in as my hand barely fit behind the panel to access the plug due to the short lead. If your clips are old or broken/brittle, order those too since they're cheap. 99950750540. I also used a door panel removal tool, but you already did that!

Yeah that's true. Wishful thinking.

Does anyone know if a 997 tiptronic steering wheel is compatible with a 986 tiptronic? This one came up on craigslist, so just curious...

I have a question about the "stop" p/n 986-375-255-01. When I removed the carrier/mount assembly, there was only one of them on mine on the "nuts" side of the bracket: There wasn't one on the "bolts" side: The parts diagram shows one on each side (#3 in the diagram), but as you can see above there was definitely only one on mine. Should I have two? Should I add another one? My mount was completely shot...the guts literally fell right out when I took out the bolts... http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_3314.mp4

That was it. Switched it out today and it feels like new. No thump, less vibration, smoother shifting. Took me a few hours and had to take the carrier to a shop to press out the old and in the new, but well worth the $25! Thanks for the advice!

Ok great, thanks! I actually have a new one already, been sitting here for months looking for the time to put it in, but my wife's smoking X5 took priority.

Hi guys, I have a 2000 Boxster Tiptronic with almost 97k miles. Over the past few weeks a "thump" has developed when I accelerate quickly from a stop (sitting at a stop light or stop sign). It feels like it is inertia related, like something is moving back, when I punch it. I feel the thump, don't really hear anything. If I do fast start in 2nd gear, I still feel a thump, but it is much less. If I accelerate at an average rate then it doesn't happen in either 1st or 2nd. At first I thought it was maybe a slip in the transmission, but since then it really feels more like something is actually moving to create the thump. Car is running great otherwise, no CELs, no leaks, normal temps, etc. I did rebuild the transmission in Oct 2013 and have almost 5k miles on it since then so I am probably overly sensitive to things that seem to be transmission-related. Please let me know if this sounds familiar to any of you and what I can look for in diagnosing the problem. Thanks!

Great thanks. It just looked a little odd and I haven't had time to get the old one out yet for a comparison.

I just got one of these recently, but haven't had a chance to install it. Just out of curiousity, does yours have a gap in the rubber between the metal thing in the middle and the metal ring on the outside? I glanced at mine when I received it and I thought it looked a little strange, but maybe this is how it is supposed to look. When I get around to doing it, it will be my first engine mount replacement.