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fpb111

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Everything posted by fpb111

  1. Little more then normal not catastrophic yet. Change the filter in 1k miles and see if more, or less debris.
  2. Oil pressure fluctuation with engine speed is normal. Temp gauge @ ~ 80 is normal. It will go a little higher when in traffic and fluctuate some as the fans cycle, low - high. Engine number is on the left side of the bottom on a slanted, machined boss. The number can be very hard to see/read as it is a series of punch marks.
  3. Do a web search you will find many others that have experienced the same problem. There is a plastic piece that breaks in the electrical part of the switch that often causes the problems that you are experiencing. That part is no longer available from Porsche. NAPA #4A0905849B ~$12 is one replacement for it. VW and Audi also have the same part, #s ??, that do the same thing for more $$$. See post 3 above DIY here http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/24-996-ignition-switch-replace-just-the-switch-with-pictures/
  4. Look at the date code on your fronts If older then 6 yrs. They have aged out replace them even if there is tread left. "How Long Does a Tire Last? Carmakers, tiremakers and rubber manufacturers differ in their opinions about the lifespan of a tire. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has no specific guidelines on tire aging and defers to the recommendations of carmakers and tire manufacturers. Carmakers such as Nissan and Mercedes-Benz tell consumers to replace tires six years after their production date, regardless of tread life. Tire manufacturers such as Continental and Michelin say a tire can last up to 10 years, provided you get annual tire inspections after the fifth year. The Rubber Manufacturers Association says there is no way to put a date on when a tire "expires," because such factors as heat, storage and conditions of use can dramatically reduce the life of a tire." http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html
  5. That would be pretty simple to make. Drill a hole through the center of a ~ 1/2 - 5/8" dia rod, dosen't even have to be exactly on center. Drill and tap a hole in the side for a set screw.
  6. You never know if it can be rebuilt until you do a detailed evaluation. Like this one: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/796170-my-996-engine-project-thread.html
  7. Pretty hard DIY to get the top on without wrinkles etc...
  8. Never heard if the other one got repaired. There are only two ways to activate the top. Rocker switch on dash and door key. I wonder if water or? in the door switch would activate the top. From the 2003 owners manual: "With the vehicle key: ~ Unlock vehicle with the remote control. ~ Hold the vehicle key in the unlocking position in the door lock until the convertible top has reached its final position or until the door windows are in the desired position. Re-lock the vehicle if necessary." Mobile Roofs 141
  9. If you aren't in love with Mobil 1, a group 4 oil, you might want to try a group 5 oil, like Motul 8100 5w-40. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Synthetic_oils ...Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III, Group IV, or some Group V bases. Synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV). Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has better mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a higher viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, synthetic oils need lower levels of viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils. However, they still fill up with particulate matter, although the matter better suspends within the oil,[citation needed] and the oil filter still fills and clogs up over time. So, periodic oil and filter changes should still be done with synthetic oil; but some synthetic oil suppliers suggest that the intervals between oil changes can be longer, sometimes as long as 16,000-24,000 km (10,000–15,000 mi) primarily due to reduced degradation by oxidation. Tests[citation needed] show that fully synthetic oil is superior in extreme service conditions to conventional oil, and may perform better for longer under standard conditions. But in the vast majority of vehicle applications, mineral oil based lubricants, fortified with additives and with the benefit of over a century of development, continue to be the predominant lubricant for most internal combustion engine applications.
  10. Put a new filter in with the flush. There is a Brit series where they buy a car cheap and then fix it up for resale. They recently did a Boxster automatic that would shift fine using the buttons but would hang up when in auto. They dropped the trans pan and changed the filter, refilled it and it worked fine again. found it http://www.streetfire.net/video/wheeler-dealers-porsche-boxster-s_part-1_2421732.htm
  11. 2" higher? Are you going to have them put a bump in the roof too!??!? ;-) I have a pair of "Seat extenders" that I will sell you for $100. They move the seat mounts back ~2-3". They go under the stock mounts, so you could have spacers made to raise the seat also. http://extendmyseat.com/porsche-911-1999-2005-996-driver-side-seat-brackets/
  12. Check the plastic covers on the tabs that go into the windshield header. If the plastic covers are broken/gone it leaves too much clearance and they can bump/rattle depending on how loose things are.
  13. You shouldn't even have to "slice" the adjuster. They come with a slot already in the nut and barrel.
  14. hydraulic lock? From oil/water/fuel in the cyl left during the rebuild?
  15. MM??? Please do a thorough search before you have MM do anything on your car. http://www.ripoffreport.com/r/motor-meister-roy-marks/downey-california-90241/motor-meister-roy-marks-ripoff-dishonest-business-practices-fraudulent-motor-rebuilding-186445 http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/911-forum/277806-motor-miester-and-ppi-question.html There are many, many more.
  16. Isn't there also a small fuse internal to the unit?
  17. It sounds like the latch needs to be adjusted. Do the guide pins have their plastic covers? One of mine broke off and the pin was loose/rattling in the slot.
  18. Read this thread. Around post 16 he pulls the clamshell drive out. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/690678-cab-clamshell-broken-hinge-arm-update-w-more-pics.html
  19. I already put the LN ceramic kit in. Just wanted some input on this one. I also like the Direct Oil Injection kit that TunerRS motorsports has next time i'n in there I want to add this. some discussion http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/757877-direct-oil-injection-2.html
  20. Something I found a couple of days ago. UK might have the switch. It is not just for safety. CLUTCH "Safety" SWITCH Here is a post from a user named Gator Bite "It's not only a "Clutch Delay Switch". A "Clutch Delay" would slow the release of the clutch, and it's usually a mechanical device like a manifold with a fixed orifice to slow the flow of hydraulic fluid from the clutch slave cylinder. BMWs (except M models) use a clutch delay to make the cars easier to drive / harder to stall. The switch you're talking about does one thing for several reason, one of them overlapping the benefits of a clutch delay. It retards the timing when you press the clutch, and for a short time after the clutch has been released. 1. Retarding the timing reduces shift jerk which makes shifts smoother, but more importantly protects the Dual Mass Flywheel from damage. 2. During take offs, retarding the timing reduces the chances of knock/ping on clutch release. This makes it much easier to launch without stalling (the overlap I was taking about). 3. By knowing when the clutch is being depressed, the DME can widen the range of acceptability in it's misfire detection module. Here's a quote directly from the Porsche Tech archives: "The program that evaluates misfire is complex. it has to be able to distinguish between deceleration caused by rough roads, potholes, shifting, and other non-misfire causes, and deceleration caused by misfire." 4. By knowing then the car is shifted (watching the clutch), the Torque Control can reduce engine braking during high torque downshifts. Here's another quote from the archives: "On deceleration with unacceptably high engine braking when downshifting, engine drag torque control (MSR) prevents the drive wheels from locking on a slippery road by slightly opening the throttle valve." So by removing that switch, you may in fact feel some added sharpness to throttle response when shifting. Because now you have a sharper timing curve. But you will be castrating all 4 of the benefits mentioned above. To summarize: 1. You may experience premature failure of your DMF 2. You may find yourself stalling your car more frequently, and you may find that your car has less power than before, because when it pre-ignites, the DME is going to pull the timing back and keep it back for a while. 3. You may experience a Check Engine Light, and investigation may reveal random misfire codes. 4. You may notice locking of the rear wheels after high RPM downshifts. This is most likely to be noticed on slippery surfaces like rain or snow, and it is likely to cause over steer."
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