fpb111

Also look at the transmission mount. When that goes bad it lets the tail shaft move quite a bit and the clunk when you get on and off the throttle is loud. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/5029-engine-and-transmission-mount-replacement/ https://importecautoparts.com/parts/part_number/996%20375%20055%2005/3

If you speedometer indicated 45 when you were doing 50 the manufacturer could be sued and NHTSA would love to sock them with a $$BIG FAT fine$$. Manufacturers are just protecting the posterior. And of course saving your life because, "SPEED KILLS"!!

Tap the next larger Torx bit into it. Then take it out. The LN magnetic plug uses a larger allen wrench. That makes it harder to strip the head.

As the clutch wears you lose some mechanical advantage and it gets firmer, harder to push down. Not to be confused with "someone took the helper spring out and now I look like a Harley Stroker owner" one leg bigger than the other. See this thread on Rennlist for info on the helper spring http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/343297-improved-clutch-action-dramatically.html

I slept in. :notworthy:

Try this quick test. Start the engine let it run for a minute take the oil cap off. If it is hard to take the cap off very likely the AOS. If not doesn't mean it isn't but probably leak somewhere else. Maybe the oil filler tube is cracked?

May be some litigation involved? LN bearing kit ~$600 x 7000 kits sold (I read that somewhere) = $,$$$,$$$

Where did you find the casper labs kit?

Odds and evens - same torque :huh: ??

Also try cleaning both sides of the battery with an ink eraser. I had that problem on two new batteries. Tried both neither worked cleaned one, works fine last two years

Post 23 here might have something you can use. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/35841-headlight-trim-boxster-1998-a-2.html

I think the HP gains are "Nano" gains. :cheers:

I have read that the older double row bearing was stronger then the 2002 - 2004 single row bearing. And that the "updated" larger (non removable unless split case) is as strong as the older dual row. That said some larger bearings have failed as JFP has stated. Change your oil at 7k miles or sooner to help keep your bearing healthy. Use a class 5 oil if you can get it there. Motul 8100xcess 5-40 is one. Porsche approved oils http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Porsche-Approved_Oils.html Not all synthetic oils are equal. Some give better protection and last longer than others, depending on whether they're formulated with Ester or PolyAlphaOlefin (PAO) stock. Synthetic oils made from the ester class are much more expensive, but are more durable and hold up under hotter temperatures. Synthetic oils have different base stocks, which comprise some 90% of the oil. The base stock is the actual lubricant The other 10% or so is the additive package. The relative ability of oils to lubricate is determined by the components of the base stock. There are two principal classes of base stocks used in real synthetic oils: synthesized hydrocarbons (PAOs) and organic esters.PAOsThe base stock materials used today many popular synthetic oils are made of carbon and hydrogen molecules. Theseare synthesized from ethylene gas molecules into PolyAlphaOleflns (PAO). Almost all the synthetic oils sold in the stores are made with PAO base stocks. PAOs provide better viscosity characteristics, are more resistant to oxidation and have much better low operating properties than petroleum oils. PAOs are cheaper synthetic oil base stocks, and aren't as durable as the ester class of synthetic oils. Some of the popular brands of PAO oils include Amsoil and Mobil-1.These are known as a Group IV oil. ESTERS (Polyolesters)Organic esters are made by reacting certain acids with alcohols, forming acid esters. There are alcohol diesters andPolyol esters. This process uses expensive materials and results in lubricants that cost many times more than PAOs.Only esters are durable enough to withstand the rigors of jet engine operation and they are used in racing and high performance cars. These oils can cost $8 dollars or more a quart. Redline is an example of an ester synthetic oil.These are known as a Group V oil. http://www.waynesgarage.com/docs/synthetic_oils.htm

One of my friends had his clutch replaced ~20 k miles ago. It was replaced with a Sachs clutch kit. His clutch did the same thing as yours. Sometimes it would squeak during release at higher rpm. He decided to live with it until it slipped or showed some other sign of failure. He just replaced that clutch kit and the DM flywheel with a Light weight flywheel and new clutch kit. The pressure plate and clutch disk looked fine. The disk measured ~8.7mm thk after ~20k miles. The pressure plate also looked ok. We figured the squeal was just that disk at certain rpm/pressures, like disk brakes squeal sometimes. Just an aside don't slip (squeak) the clutch for 2 seconds at 2-3k rpm. That is needlessly heating up the clutch, PP & flywheel. Maybe that is why it is crying.

I just saw a pic of someone that did that on Rennlist. I just use the Ultimate cup holder http://www.ultimatecupholders.com/

What was it?

The amount and type of junk that gets between the evaporator and radiator is pretty amazing, Cigarette butts and feathers?? This is after 3 yrs ~ 12k miles. Bumper removal is a straight forward operation. .

If you would just like a sporty sound there is a "hack" that works well for ~$300 look into FisterD. If you do a search you will get many hits for this mod. http://fdmotorsports.net/fister-exhaust-996 There is also a hack called "the orange cap mod" that disables the heimholtz resonator in the intake that adds a little bass to the flat 6 symphony. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/42335-can-i-completely-remove-the-hemholtz-resonator-on-stock-airboxintake-hose/?hl=%2Borange+%2Bcap+%2Bmod#entry226640

I wouldn't panic with only 1 high reading. I had a reading over 100ppm copper and high iron. The next reading after 3k miles was 6ppm, as have been subsequent readings.

Check out this thread. The coupling is for sale for ~ $90 http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/36862-cardan-shaft-rubber-bushing/ http://www.koperform...-Flex-Disc.html2002 Porsche Carrera, C/4 (996) >> Drive Shafts, Axles, Differentials > Driveshaft Flex DiscMake & Model Search...Below are the results for: Porsche >> 2002 >> Carrera, C/4 (996) >> Drive Shafts, Axles, Differentials >> Driveshaft Flex DiscSelect your Make: ...Porsche Select your Year: ...2002 Select your Model: ...911 Turbo (996 Turbo)BoxsterBoxster SCarrera, C/4 (996) Select Part Group: ... Drive Shafts, Axles, Select Part Category: Driveshaft Flex DiscFlex Disc -Part Search Results...Part number: 10 2539 005 options include...Item # < 1 > Qty Part #: 102539005-57 KO Price: $84.06 Shipping: $0.00 - FREE Shipping! - & *Ship Group Stock Status: In Stock - Ready to Ship!

That girl , my lord, in a flat bed Ford slowin down to take a look at you...

Teddy is always sneaking out for joy rides. :drive:

I will have to get a better pic, the second shows it in sunlight.

Don't keep us in suspense, how did it go?

Look under your gas flap. 17" = 36 F & R 18" = 36 F & 44 R 2003 C2 Cab 18" rears, at ~12k miles = inner ~1/3 worn to 1st layer of cord outer 2/3 just about to the wear bars with factory alignment. Fronts ~25k inner at wear bars, outter just about to wear bars This for the last two sets of tires. Michelins and Kumhos.