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txhokie4life

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Everything posted by txhokie4life

  1. Did you check the oil fill tube for vacuum?
  2. I keep hearing of folks that want to do Forced Induction on their M96 engines. I tell them for the price of what its going to cost you, sell the 996/7 and buy a 996TT. There any many little things in common with the 996, but like has been said the engine is not from the same base design. Any issues with the Turbo and cylinder head cracks or cracked cylinder liners? Mike
  3. Technically yes there is -- there is a tube that goes to your intake from the AOS. If you were to pull that -- plug the intake side -- you might be able to tell. But its also possible there is enough oil residue in your intake system that you'll be burning off oil for some time. however an easier method is to unscrew your oil fill and put your hand over top. If there is moderate to strong suction with engine running -- it's almost assuredly your AOS. Mine was terrible on quick left hand turns. Mike
  4. I was thinking the same thing -- last I heard you were ripping up asphalt and all was well. If you need help with the short block -- let me know and I can check my mechanic buddy's schedule. The tricky part is getting the circlips on the piston wrists on the 2nd block half. He created his own tool to do this. Or you can buy the Porsche tool. Mike
  5. Fantastic --- that's what these forums are for! Enjoy the snot out of that P-car. Then have a beer or three :-) you deserve it. Mike
  6. Just a thought -- and I'm assuming most of the bleeding is fuel, coolant and PS -- find something to plug the coolant hoses -- and figure out a way to seal off the fuel and PS (rubber gloves and some zip ties might work there). rubber or cork plug about the ID of the coolant hoses? heck maybe even a baggie and zip ties/hose clamps tightly around the hose ends? been awhile since I've pulled a M96 engine. Mike
  7. Sorry no offense -- just adding to my -- gee what would do that :-) My 951 FI's are a pain to get them to seat properly. Mike
  8. My mechanic basically built his own insertion tool using 1" (I think) copper pipe and just made it sufficiently long. Mike
  9. Great Holiday story! I got my new to me CTT just after Thanksgiving -- and have loved it. Mike
  10. Sorry -- CPS -- crank position sensor. If the DME doesn't get the right readings -- you won't get spark. Fuel pump might not run either (but I'm not 100% sure of that) Mike
  11. if you can get the water pump off and there is enough threads for two nuts -- then you can put one on, since down the second and then "remove" the first which will extract the stud. This is the equivalent of welding when you don't have a welder. mike
  12. Seems like a pressure test when the coolant is hot might help isolate if its a thermal related weakness. You might even consider ziptieing a couple shop towels around some connection points to see if you can pin point the leak. I would not worry too much about driving it. You are aware of the issue, keeping an eye on it and topping it off when you have some of the coolant leaking. It is possible that something suddenly gives out (like the expansion tank) and you might find yourself unable to drive it -- so do keep that in mind. hopefully you track it down soon. Mike
  13. Where is Texas are you? If you are near Austin, might be cheaper to just have it hauled to Silent Automotive. He's relatively cheap and very knowledgeable about Boxsters. Car haul is probably $750-1000. M
  14. We had an 03 S come in with a cylinder liner failure last summer -- Sent engine off to LN Engineering (actually Millenium Technologies does the work) and had it bored out to 3.8L. Stout engine -- but the rebuild isn't cheap as the Nickies (ring and pistons) will set you back 4K themselves. I've read there are one or two places in England that are doing something similar. H something (slipped my mind) and Autofarm? m
  15. I race a 88 924S pushing 5500-6000 RPM for 24 Hours. Surely thats gotta be considered pushing a P-car hard :-)
  16. You are right -- the 2005 has 276HP and the 2003/2004 S has 258HP. Anyone know what the differences were? It's possible that you just need to switch the intake or exhaust when doing the engine swap. Mike
  17. Sorry to hear about your loss. You can go from 2002 to 2008 (just as long as they have dual variocam). You might have to double check on the 2002. The early years could be even better because you can do an LN IMS Retrofit upgrade before installing the engine and significantly reduce or darn near eliminate the chance for another IMS failure. The later 2005 (at some point) and on have a revised IMS and cannot be retrofitted as the bearing carrier is larger than the block opening. Depending on how much damage was done when the bearing or in your case bolt failed -- your engine maybe rebuildable. However, it's possibly cheaper and quicker to find a used motor -- but they have their unknown question marks as you can imagine. good luck Mike
  18. What adjustments are necessary? I have a 82 Euro S and just acquired 95 GTS seats. thanks, mike
  19. what year is your 996? I have a 3.6L engine in search of a car. Mike
  20. Just because Chump cars can run 18-24 hours on the same oil -- doesn't always indicate things are good :-( I've seen a large attrition rate on the cars in this series -- many engine related (including ours). My Porsche 924S has run 18 hours on VR-1 at TWS (105 day time temp), but 12 hours into 14 at H2R (90-95deg) we lost the engine on fresh VR-1. We had 4.5bar after that 18hour run. I didn't notice anything unusual before the #2 rod bearing failed. This was a fresh engine that grenaded previously at H2R. Could be track related -- who knows. We've run that track 6 times now -- losing engines twice. Moving to Amsoil Dominator. Just not worth the $30 delta on a $4-5000 weekend. (and I'm cheap!) We've also moved to adding cross drilled crank and crank scraper AND a 2nd oil cooler -- previously we had accusump, one Turbo oil cooler, lyndsay baffle. My understanding is the M96 suffers from #6 rod bearing -- similar in the way the 944's #2 rod bearing. YMMV, Mike
  21. I have "burped" my Boxsters a couple times. They have the pressure relief valve on the back of the car underneath the plastic piece that sits across the oil and coolant fill caps. That being said -- do what JFP suggested. You don't want to leave the coolant in the oil because it can start to attack some of the softer metals (like bearings). So be sure to drain the oil quickly and completely. Then follow JFP's instructions. I do wonder why your coolant light was low in the first place tho. Once filled -- you shouldn't run across this unless you have a problem. mike
  22. Whats it worth? 2001 Tip S 26K miles Looking to buy Tip for wife. Listed at 20,600 on Autotrader. Edmunds suggests ~11.5k KBB ~ 18K That's a huge spread. Options are Lintronics. 18" rims, sport touring, headlamp washers mike Cars for Sale: 2001 Porsche Boxster S in Austin, TX 78730: Convertible Details - 314732250 - AutoTrader.com
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