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kbollaert

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About kbollaert

  • Birthday 07/19/1952

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    Brandon, MS
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    91 911 Targa
    99 996 Coupe
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    997
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    964

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  1. Followup: This problem was caused by a fuel injector that apparently stuck open, dumping a lot of gas into the intake. A warm start a few minutes later was enough to ignite the fuel, causing an explosion in the intake system. Replaced the injectors, gaskets, an intake runner tube, my shorts, and all is well.
  2. Possibly the conecting link between the lock assembly and the door handle: check the other sites, searching door locks, etc.
  3. It's been reported that these cars will show up with several anomalies like yours when the ignition switch is failing/about to fail. I don't encourage throwing parts at a problem until it goes away, but at the price of a replacement switch, it's a "start". I keep a spare switch in my car: it failed once before and stranded me.
  4. engine mounts. check your exhaust pipes for differences in height. thatll tell you which one has failed. possibly the transmission mount, but much more likely the engine mount(s). if you see a liquid coming from the mounts, thats a sure indication.
  5. Cranking motor after a five minute cooloff after a 120 mile drive. Nothing out of the ordinary noted. Engine cranked over normally about 3 revolutions (or so), when BOOM!! and a big cloud of bluish smoke came out of the rear of the car. Thinking that there was pissibly an induction fire (a la airplane piston engines), I continued to crank for a period of time to put out the possible fire. Very strong misfire, with minor pops for appx 1 minute. Let the motor cool for 2 hours, pulled the air filter. No damage (lots of leaves though). No oil behind the butterfly noted. Pulled the MAF (carefully) and inspected with no damage noted. Reassembled everything and tried to start the motor with the MAF disconnected. Durametric codes of P1602 and P0102 pulled and cleared. Disconnected the battery for 30 minutes. Instantly tried to go full throttle. Probably got up to 5000 rpm before I could react. Shut down, inspected the throttle cable, with no defects noted. Reconnected the MAF connector. Tried another start. Serious misfire, minor backfiring. Will not accelerate much beyond 1000 rpms. No further codes came up, no indications from the Durametric-which I had to uninstall, reinstall and install another Windows driver. BTW I borescoped around the intake runners, and didn't see anything unusual. Any ideas? Fuel delivery seems ok, based upon the rapid rise in rpms with the MAF disconnected. Don't understand why that happened, though. Background: 16k miles after overhaul. No detritus noted when I removed the oil pan for a repair last week. Normal cranking/operation since overhaul. New AOS, Oil filler cap seal/tube all filters, etc. More than half full of fresh fuel.
  6. Definitely the fogs, but looking at the diagrams, that would turn on the rear fog light also. For now, I just turn on the parking and fog lights.
  7. Looking at the last picture, the fuses are inserted into a6 and a9 (a6 providing switched power to a9). By the wiring diagram, that seems to only power up the lh low beam headlight. Am I missing something?
  8. All I can recommend is to disconnect the battery Friday night (if this is a dd), let it sit overnight, then drive it over the weekend. This hopefully will let the computers relearn. I don't know, but it's worth a try, I think.
  9. Any luck with your purge valve? I'm having the same problem. changed the valve at the charcoal canister, with no luck.
  10. Me too, while turning left. I've looked at the entire system, with no obvious defect. Totally, like, puzzled....
  11. Though I'd pass on my experience with a misfire after maintenance. Changed plugs, cleaned the engine, changed the clutch. After maintenance, everything is normal-until the engine hit 180 degrees on the gauge. Then I';d get a missing cylinder. Every time, it was fine until the engine warmed up to 180 degrees. Trouble codes gave me P115 MAF sensor, P124 Intake air sensor, P 257(?) Misfire detection, and P 507 Misfire #6 cylinder. BTW, this was the final set of codes that the car threw. Other times, it would just tell me about the MAF sensor. Listening to the exhaust pipes, I could tell that the problem was on the right side (left exhaust sounded rougher), and finally isolated it to the r/h forward (drivers view) cylinder. Putting my hand close to the pipes, I could tell which cylinder wasn't firing by the difference in temperature. Solution: connect the d#%@ed lead to the coil pack properly! Apparently, the connector was making enough contact to fire the plug when cold. When the engine warmed up, I guess the increased cylinder pressure was enough to stop the plug from firing using the reduced input voltage to the coil, caused by the poor connection. Smooth motor, no codes, everything is "groovy"...
  12. Looking for the code: 1999 C2 CDR-210 Model: R3297 Serial #: W501581 Thank you
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