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318touring

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Everything posted by 318touring

  1. Doing my usual Saturday morning check-under-the-car routine, and noticed that something might have been seeping/leaking very slowly. I was investigating what could be making the noise referred to in this http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44468-auto-noise-when-stationary-and-in-gear/ Nothing on the ground. Did the most sensible thing, and pulled the cover off, and cleaned it up (pic below) Checking around, it seemed that the area around the transmission oil pan is a bit grimy, like being caused by slowly escaping oil. Interestingly, one of the bolt's head was filled with oil. Definitely not engine oil, so would it be that the pan's gasket is leaking, or the pan hasn't been tightened correctly causing it to seep oil? Or is it something else? Car is 2003 C4 Cabriolet Tip
  2. Lucky chap (in a way). Now, did you change the IMS bearing on your new engine?
  3. Wow that's crazy, I've never heard of a cracked engine block before. You definitely want to find out how this could happen. Where did you get the new engine, and how much did that cost you?
  4. My dealer indicated that it is possibly the valve body or servos filling up. Advise a trans service, although its fluid was replaced 3 years ago.
  5. Thanks Joe, that was what I thought. Sending it to the dealer tomorrow to get confirmed, I told them to spend an hour max looking for the cause. Car is not being used regularly anyway so it's not a hurry to get fixed but I like to know why. UPDATE: the dealer put the coolant system under pressure for 2 hours, and ..... no leak. They didn't charge for anything, and I'll mark this solved and keeping an eye on the car.
  6. Waterpump and thermostat (low temp) changed a couple of months ago. The drips were from the other side of the engine where h20 pump is located. Reading through what Google comes up seems that it might be AOS?
  7. I was checking under the car and saw drops of coolant from the middle-ish of the engine (see attached picture). The car hasn't been used for the last week and a half. The bolt next to the text in the picture was damp, also up the engine block based on what I can feel, and it was coolant. Car is 2003 996 C4 TipWhat would this be?
  8. In my case the noise only coccurred when I put the car into gear, D and R. Only on these occasions. The dealer can't figure out what the problem, had its oil replaced 2.5 years, 10,000kms ago. No error code that was related to the noise.
  9. Can't your insurance go after her for the repair of your car with zero contribution from yourself? That'll teach the hippy girl that real life is not about weed and love, it's hard and you gotta be responsible of the consequences of your actions.
  10. Seems the tech is sure that 99% the top idler pulley is the cause. However annoyingly the car fails its MOT due to torn top struts, http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod13732/Shock-Absorber-Top-Strut-Support-Porsche-996-C4---Turbo/ And there is excessive play on the lower arm ball joint, http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod126919/Control-Arm-with-Lower-Ball-Joint--Coffin-Arm--Porsche-986-Boxster-and-996---04_2/ I am looking at the right replacement parts, correct?
  11. Thanks guys. I'm sending it back to the garage who did the WP change, the car needs its 6-monthly road-worthiness testing tomorrow anyway. I'll post here what they found out. I ended up not taking the belt out due to the above.
  12. LOL, youtube offered an enhanced version of the video where it wasn't shaking. It was my hand shaking not the belt :-) I'm going to take the belt out on the weekend and move the pulley one by one. It's getting darker and colder earlier now since it's autumn at this part of the world.
  13. Seems that one of my pulley is noisy. I have just changed the water pump-last week (hopefully NOT the new water pump making this noise), and belt was replaced 2000 miles ago. What do you think? Or maybe alternator bearing?
  14. Good points, from a quick phone conversation their advise was not to touch it if it isn't misbehaving. PM me when you're next in Wellington (coolest little capital in the world).
  15. Yup JFP, I'll be talking to the indie where I've just booked my car for water pump and low temp thermostat replacement. While they've done LNE bearing replacements I don't think they had done LN's courses out there in Georgia(?). Wellington (NZ) is such a small place (pop 400,000) and it might not make economic sense to invest so much money with such a small Porsche population here.
  16. It's all very well there is the $1400-$1500 Solution + install, but it has to be installed by authorised shops. What about Porsche owners outside the States? I'm stuck with 'lifed' LN's IMS at $650 for 40,000 miles/4 years, or using KK's method (Pelican + CH bearing) which might cost up to $250 with the same replacement period. Note all costs quoted above are in US dollars, which has an exchange rate of US$0.8 to NZ$1
  17. They would have to replace what was there with equal or better quality product as specified by the manufacturer. If the coolant they are using is approved by Porsche then it's fine otherwise insist that they talk to your dealer before doing the work.
  18. +1 ^^ Looks like the water pump's going. It's a DIY-able work, but I haven't done it. It's greenish in colour.
  19. Just did the rear pads. Only issue was one of the dampener separated itself from its backing plate (the plate that glues itself to the back of the pad). At the end I put the old plate back with the new pad. will try to get the old dampener out when doing rotor change. Used brake cleaner to get the pin out and the sensor. I broke the sensor through the old pads. just move the sensor sideways and use a screwdriver to clear its way through the old pad. Total 2 hrs for me, using Textar bought from Design 911 in the UK.
  20. Mate, I bought all my parts from the UK. So far I had two shipments from Type 911, and just last week a set of rear pads + fitting kit from Design 911. The fitting kit is missing one clip, after I emailed Design 911, I think they're sending 1 clip my way (based on their shipment notifications email). Everything work out to about 1/2 price to what they would cost me in NZ, and of course no GST!!
  21. To keep cost down, supply the parts after paying half off dealer's prices at some online stores. Including oil.
  22. This topic has been covered quite extensively here, do a search. As a starter here's a diagram showing the drains what I've done is to take the rear wheels off, take the plastic cover off, you'll be able to see the drain. Clean it off and you'll be fine.
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