Hilux2400

Try this, if it's a 996: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/376-opening-a-996-when-the-battery-is-flat/

When I reached a certain age I decided that an open top car was not for me. My last open top was a Morgan where elbows are at nasty dog level. There's a saying (Joan Rivers) that if you need to cover a bald spot buy a Porsche. I've decided that to cover by bald spot I need a roof, so for me the choice was a coupe with decent air con. City driving with an open car is no longer any fun, in my view.

Was the cap on tight or is the cap faulty?

Sugru is a great product for all sorts of stuff like this, but it is expensive. Look at the Sugru web site: www.sugru.com

Sorry, can't help with the Durametric. Have you thought of becoming a contributing member even for just 25$? Every little helps and this site is a great asset to Porsche owners. I might have given you the wrong answer as the M10 bolts are for the chrome trim. The bellmouth joint between the final pipe length and the exhaust needs an 8mm bolt. Here I used a socket headed bolt about 60mm in length with an aerotight nut and stainless washers. You can get these socket headed bolts in Metal Work Supplies, Hereford, but they don't have aerotight nuts. When you put this fitting on you will probably have the exhaust shield off to give you some space. You will need to leave the fitting slack so that you can line up the exhaust tips for a balanced look from the back. Although space is limited in this area, it is possible to tighten this clip when everything is back together, but you need to locate the bolt in a particular location to do this.

10mm dia and about 30mm in length. However, if you use a conventional bolt the hexagon head is within the tube and is a bit awkward to get at and the OE fitting is a flat head bolt with a square fitting under, much like a conventional coach bolt. I went non OE and used a stainless steel coach bolt about 30mm in length with a stainless washer and an aerotight or philidas self locking nut in stainless steel. These self locking nuts can be re-used, unlike nylock nuts which won't stand the heat. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-M8-M10-M12mm-A2-Stainless-Steel-Carriage-Bolts-Cup-Square-Coach-Screws-/311413018136?var=610483338657&hash=item4881a98e18 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M2-5-M12-Stainless-Steel-Aerotight-All-Metal-Locking-Nuts-Exhaust-Manifolds-/231323743168?var=&hash=item35dbf833c0

Thanks for the link.

It is also interesting to look at oil specifications. There are some manufacturers' recommended oils, but not Porshe approved oils, which meet the P40 spec. Comma make a fully synthetic Syner-G 5W-40 which has a spec that almost matches the Mobil spec in terms of viscosity index and viscosities at both 100 and 40 deg C.

I cleaned mine with a specific MAF sensor cleaner at about 55K. It comes in a spray can. I also did a diesel Toyota at the same time and noticed with both cars a mild improvement in fuel consumption. The exposed sensor parts are very delicate so don't be tempted to use a brush, just se the force of the spray.

If it's for indoor use why not buy a low cost one and replace every two years? They get pretty dirty and are hard to clean. A really expensive one both breathes and is waterproof. The one I have now is not water proof but it does keep dust and bird droppings off. It cost about £20 and is listed as medium car size.

I have just been out to check my car which has been standing overnight. When I turn the ignition on, without starting the engine, after a few seconds the pump starts cycling. It pulses at about 1 to 2 second intervals. I can hear it when sitting in the driver's seat. I assume it is responding to pressure sensors in the system. Knowing what you know so far it looks like a faulty pump. However, if I were you, to make sure I would crack open a fuel line so see if it is being pressurised. I would again also run a switched and fused 12v jump to the pump. It needs to be switched to avoid sparks, so don't wave live wires about. You don't mention the quality of the fuel in all this. Is there water in the fuel? Is it old fuel, as fuel loses its volatility when left in an unsealed container and eventually becomes useless for its original purpose?

Standard size tyre options for summer and winter tyres are given in the handbook for both 17" and 18" wheels together with wheel offsets.

If you are going to start digging I would give yourself some space and take off: back wheels, back cowl, exhaust heat shields, exhaust silencer boxes, plug sparking plug shields, inner rear alloy bumper bar and air filter box. With all those off its surprising how much space there is to get at stuff. Best of luck.

The coolant reservoir cap would be a good start. It's surprising how even a small pressure loss can bump up temperature. When I last filled re-filled my coolant I did it with the car pointing nose down with a difference front to back of about 300mm. This helps if you don't have a vacuum tool.

What I hadn't realised until reading your post and the Pelican Forum thread linked above (cross section through sump) is that the bottom part of the IMS bearing sits within the engine oil. Therefore, oil washing and pickup will always occur with a full sump. This will be even more the case if the car is often parked front down or under braking.

Great picture - thanks JFP.

OK thanks. I just thought that as this later bearing cannot be withdrawn from the flywheel side there would be insufficient space on the flywheel side to gain access to the seal. I still find it hard to believe that against the history of pre 2004 failures that the manufacturers would insert a limited life sealed bearing here, when an unsealed bearing could have an adequate splash lubrication source from the sump.

The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure. How many IMS bearings, with the seal in-place, failures are you aware of (997's with large bearing)? Only a couple, but both were definitely an IMS failure. As you may or may not know, I now own a 997 4S along with the 986 Jӓgermobile (now over 280,000 miles on original motor). I will definitely pull the IMS seal on my first clutch job on the 997. Thanks for the data. The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure. How many IMS bearings, with the seal in-place, failures are you aware of (997's with large bearing)? Only a couple, but both were definitely an IMS failure. As you may or may not know, I now own a 997 4S along with the 986 Jӓgermobile (now over 280,000 miles on original motor). I will definitely pull the IMS seal on my first clutch job on the 997. Thanks for the data. I can't figure out how you would do that on a 997, or late 996, with the larger bearing as this bearing can only be accessed from the engine side and not from the clutch side. There is no oil source on the clutch side. The oil source comes from the sump side. I have asked this question before as I have a 996 which had a Porsche replacement engine in late 2005. I have been unable to determine from the engine number the precise type of bearing, but owing to the lateness of the refit I think it's probably the bigger bearing of the style in 997 cars. I can see from the engine geometry that removing the inner seal from the "big" bearing engine would allow the bearing to gain splash lubrication from the chain drive next to it. Does this later type bearing have an inner seal? It is my understanding that access to this inner seal, if it is present, can only be achieved with the IMS removed. I have been told that It is not possible to gain access to the inner seal by just removing the sump cover. Is the reason for the success of these later bearings that they don't have an oil seal from standard and are therefore adequately lubricated from the start?

At present these five fledglings are the first brood of our summer swallow visitors and they are nesting above the roof of my 996 and just emerging from the nest. I have the car covered, but the mess is dreadful as it's pure digested insects. However, their acrobatic flight is astounding. They will probably bring up three broods and leave in October. The swallows are not the only problem as they have been noticed by the cat, who now wants to sit on top of the car.

I don't know what the tolerance is, but the handbook gives wheel and tyre sizes for road use in winter and summer. It's easy to calculate the rolling comparison. The second figure in the size gives the aspect ratio of the tyre as a percentage of the overall width. For example a standard 911 996 C2 fit would have 225/40 tyre on the front with a height of 90mm (225 X 0.40 = 90) and a 285/30 on the back with a height of 85.50mm (285 X 30 = 85.50). The tyre height off the rim back to front is within 5% and therefore the rolling circumference difference back to front is within about 0.6%. (Circumference = 3.142 x Diameter). It would seem from this that a 5% difference in tyre height is tolerable in terms of rolling circumference. Hope this helps you. H

What I can never understand about this later bearing change is why direct lubrication is not provided through the normal engine lubrication system. It is not unusual to find roller bearings lubricated with sump oil. It was being done with the BMC Mini which had a combined engine and transmission sump in 1959. Would it be possible to drop the sump pan and prise out the bearing seal to achieve this? I have a feeling I have seen this questions asked before, but can't remember the answer. Regards h

I would think about the coolant reservoir, coolant level sensor and a new pressure cap. My coolant tank started to give problems at about 9 years of age at 45K (2003 996 C2). Coil packs are also worth doing. One of mine started to split at 55K and at the same time I put on stainless steel silencer boxes by Dansk.

Try this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/376-opening-a-996-when-the-battery-is-flat/ I made this tutorial some time back. It's for a 996, but probably the same fro your newer car. Hilux

When the beep occurs the multifunction display changes and the selected speed appears within a double circle. This multifunction display has many features including an average speed check which is useful for travelling through average speed zones on trunk roads. It can be zeroed when passing the first camera and logs your average as you progress through the zone.

Almost all cars break down and there's a lot of doom about. I also own two Toyotas and a Merc. The Toyotas are bomb proof, but if you read the horror stories on the web you might be put off buying one. I have found my 911 to be reasonably reliable in three years of use. I had to spend a few thousand after buying it to fix things that previous owners should have repaired, but that's just my being pedantic. Had I not spent the money, the car would still be driveable and safe. All cars require maintenance and if you learn to do a few things yourself it can save a lot of money. The 911/996 is very easy to service and I assume the Boxster would be the same. I think the problems come for third generation owners. First owners get the car dealer serviced and this probably happens to second owners. After about 6 years the cars enter the price bracket of the person who likes to be seen in a Porsche but is perhaps a bit less fussy about maintenance. By the time the fourth owner gets it there will be quite a few things that need doing. I was the fourth owner of my 911/996 and since owning it I have done the following outside normal servicing and tyres: Air con rad, re-charging air con, new coolant reservoir and cap, suspension drop links on anti-roll bar ends, two exhaust boxes, new plugs and coil packs, air oil separator, oil filler tube, repairing leak on alloy coolant tube, putting the right size wheels on, serpentine belt, front apron off to clean coolant rads, new battery, cleaning bulkhead drain holes, fixing rear seats, repairing sagging front seat, adjusting headlights and replacing a few rusty hose clamps. That's all I can remember just now. I know this sounds a lot, but only the leak on the coolant tube was critical. Hope you find a good one and they are about.