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986Jim

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Everything posted by 986Jim

  1. 986Jim
    I never take my windscreen out. I just leave it there all the time even when the top is down and sitting in parking lots. I have heard that people steal them but after two years and lots of leaving the top down everywhere I go nobody has ever touched my car. People stop to admire it but never bother with it. I have removed it once just to see how it comes out, other then that it just stays there up or down.
  2. 986Jim
    It always does that you probably didn't ever notice it before. Once you lock the car it will shut off, otherwise it takes about 20 minutes.
  3. 986Jim
    After having now been under the car on the hoist from putting on my muffler I got a chance to look at the headers clearly and photograph them. See the attached picture. The problem with the stock headers on the 97-99 particularly is the clear lack of a collector which works to scavenge the cylinders after each one fires, secondly the runners are not equal length. These are designed only to fit the space and budget of the car. It's no wonder the aftermarket headers make 10hp and 15ft/lbs of torque from simply changing them out. The 2.7 I believe got a proper collector even though there is a cat attached to it it's much better than the earlier design on the 2.5l. So not as much power was picked up on the 2.7L cars with a header (and 3.2 as they are the same) but there was still gains. I have ordered some 2.5l headers to replace what you see in the pic and I will report the difference / install shortly.
  4. 986Jim
    They sell typically around 400-500 bux for clear.
  5. 986Jim
    OK I have since done this and decided I would update this thread. I used this: http://www.duplicolor.com/products/caliper.html It's a brush on ceramic caliper paint. It took 4 coats on each caliper to really get them solid looking. I didn't have to mask anything and the paint dries really fast. I had my car on the hoist, pulled off all 4 wheels then just walked around painting. After I did all 4 calipers I could go back to the first one and it was already dry again ready for another coat. Dries in 5 mins to the point where you can touch it. I just kept walking around till it looked good, and 4 lap later here it is. I also put on the xenonmods caliper stickers from Ebay. It was streaky at first but once the paint was a few layers thick and it drys it completely smooths out. I have things powder coated all the time for my business and I swear this looks just as good.
  6. 986Jim
    Ahhh first one huh.. Well your second oil change will be much easier. I just changed my oil last week and I put the filter on by hand last year in the spring and it came off this year by hand again with no tools at all and it never leaked, so it doesn't take much pressure to seal it up. Try it by hand next time I'll almost guarantee you it will come off by hand. My VR6 jetta is exactly the same year but I change that car 3-4 times a year, again that baby comes off by hand no prob. I bought my CBR used and the dip**** who did the oil the last time did the same thing, but I couldn't even get a wrench on it. I had to puncture the filter with a screwdriver right through the side and use the handle to spin it off it was on so tight. I dunno what possess people to screw them on so tight.
  7. 986Jim
    Don't put it on so tight next time, it needs only about 20-30ft/lbs to keep it from leaking max. 20-30ft/lbs it just tight with your hand to the point where you don't have to really put any muscle into it. Just until it stops turning with your normal power. If you have to make a face, thats getting into 50ft/lbs territory and is obviously to tight, so no funny faces when tightening it on. I can do head studs by hand and be within 5ft/lbs with my Snap on torque wrench so you just get used to it after a while. Of course the last step in the tightening process I use a torque wrench, just figure I would say that so people don't jump all over me. Then again when you own an Eagle Talon and do 2 head gaskets a year because of 30psi of boost you get good at torquing a head on...
  8. 986Jim
    Dang my bad, I missed that in your post. Thats very odd then. Unfortunately it sounds like you have eliminated all the small easy stuff, guess what that leaves... I have a sneaky suspicion that it's something inside the motor now based on it being louder with the oil cap off and not the accessories. Unfortunately I think you had better go into a qualified mechanic (Porsche Shop) or to the dealership themselves as I'm not sure there is much more anybody can tell you without having it on the hoist and really pin pointing the sound. I could toss it up on my hoist at the shop, however I am neither local to you nor a "qualified" Porsche mechanic so that won't help you much.
  9. 986Jim
    Jim, From the clips, it sounds like it is a little deeper and bit more loud than stock. I like the stock tone, just does not have enough volume. Maybe this will work for me and from I can tell at $700, a second mortgage is not necessary. You happy? Warren Yeah at $599 plus shipping it was a steal. The sound is exactly how you describe, slightly louder but just the perfect volume, and a great tone. Its loud enough that you know its there but quiet enough you can ingore it if need be. I would absolutly buy again. Neither of my wives (dont ask) complain about it and love the sound. The other mufflers in the same price range $599-649 ish with the two seperate mufflers have had some droning and noise complaints. I'm not particularly fond of loud exhausts so im quite happy with it. If anything it could have been just a touch louder, but hard to say what that would do.
  10. 986Jim
    What wrong with this wrench? Worked for every oil change I have done to date.
  11. 986Jim
    Glad to hear! My clean up of the maf is still working and keeping the CE light away so that method worked for me. It seems that 1123 and 1125 area always the MAF for whatever reason.
  12. 986Jim
    A bearing is toast in either one of the idler pulley or an accessory pulley. I hear cars with that all the time, typically its the power steering pulley or the timing belt tensioner. In this case won't be the timing belt tensioner but quite likely one of the tensioner for the accessory belt. Have you had your belt changed yet? If not pull it off and start spinning things to see which guy is the culprit then order a new one.
  13. 986Jim
    Not at all to be honest. Other than the fact that the muffler is louder than stock, it behaves just like the stock exhaust does. There is no RPM or frequency where things are loud and annoying or it sounds particularly annoying at a certain RPM.
  14. 986Jim
    The switch over was easy total bolt on affair. Getting the tips lined up in the outlet straight with the two side pipes was a bit of a PITA but other then that, went on in about 1.5 hours start to finish including removing the rear bumper. It took me longer to paint my calipers than do the exhaust swap hahah. Next is headers, so stay tuned for that... Thanks to http://www.maxspeed-motorsports.com for the exhaust system. = YouTube Video.
  15. 986Jim
    How many miles did you get from the T1R? Its not my DD so I don't care about threadwear, nevermind the fact that I burn my tires out and hang every corner I possibly can... Regardless, how many miles did you get on them ?
  16. 986Jim
    link?
  17. 986Jim
    Yeah, that is what the bulbs are worth around here if you buy them from the dealer. A D2S bulb is a D2S bulb however, they are all the same hook up. You should be able to buy one from just about anywhere and get it pretty cheap. It should look like this: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?cPa...products_id=132 Those are 5000k and stock your lights are 4300k so you want to either buy two and replace them both from CQLight or buy one from somebody who has the proper temperature otherwise they will look different. You can also buy an OEM Phillips pair in exactly what your looking for here: http://www.hidplanet.com/philips5000k.html They are whats in your car now. They are sold as pair as these are color matched after a burn in period so you get a pair that really match. From this link: http://www.hidplanet.com/philips.html you can see they sell the 85122 and 85122+ I honestly dont know what the difference is but based on your model number you need the 85122+ Regards,
  18. 986Jim
    Sorry but thats is just awesome ahhahah. You bullseyed a turkey with your car, thats like shootin a fly with a bazooka. Somebody give this man a trophy or something.
  19. 986Jim
    Not only that, they are friggin heavy. Unsprung weight is everything, go and add huge amounts of weight to your wheel and tire setup (19" wow) and it will be like somebody just sucked 20hp out of your car. Even if the weight is the same as your 17" the 19" are larger and thus pushing the weight out farther away from the center of the wheel taking more inertia to turn. Even at the same weight the car will be slower. From a performance standpoint fit the smallest wheel you can (within reason) but one also large enough for visual appeal. On a boxster that magical number seems to be around 17" as you really can't readily get a 16" tire thats 265 in the rear. When you can find them they are super expensive. If you have to go larger than 17" then go to an 18" which even at that will slow the car down.
  20. 986Jim
    I bought Toyo T1R for my car, 225/45/17 and 265/40/17 and am really happy with these. I have had Rosso's and S0-3's before and the T1R are easily as good on this car. Many tires don't come in a 265 width for the back and the T1R did so I was happy about that. They look hella fine too on the car, very nice tread pattern.
  21. 986Jim
    What was posted in that ebay link is not a switch its only a light in a blank cover. I bought that thinking it was a switch with a light in it but it's not. I did install it and it blinks as the spoiler goes up and down and stays lit up when the spoiler is up and off when down. It's a neat item, but still be nice to have a switch. I'm 6.0' so I can't see the spoiler in my rearview as somebody mentioned, so the light is neat, can really see it at night. The wiring diagram for the spoiler switch is here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=7071&hl= You can buy the switch at Porsche for about $35. I'm buying the switch and will install it below the where I put the light (top right blank switch panel) should be cool to have a switch and matching light there.
  22. 986Jim
    he's a knowledgable guy. there are plenty of times i've read something, responded, and in retrospect realized i hadn't thought of something. anyway, the Mantis guys are in Oakville, Ontario. I'll have to look them up, thanks.
  23. 986Jim
    No surprise MNBoxster gets in there with his usual bs "expert" opinion.. :rolleyes: Good write up, should look these guys up, where in Canada are they? Maybe I can pay them a visit.
  24. 986Jim
    eshuber was correct. Anybody searching for this in the future, here is some info I have learned through this process. The oil in a boxster flows out of the engine to the outside of the filter. The oil flows through the filter to the center and back out to the motor from there. If that plug is not in the bottom of the filter plugging it up, the oil will flow to the path of least resistance and go up the center through the bottom and not be filtered. That valve is to plug the bottom of the filter so it forces the oil to flow through the filter then back to the engine. That valve is a oil by-pass valve which in the unlikely case the filter become totally plugged it will open from the underside like a thermostat and allow the oil to flow up the center from the bottom unfiltered but will not choke the motor from lubrication, dirty or not. It's basically a safety in case something clogs the whole filter up. Its just press fit into three little feet that are in the bottom of the oil filter canister. It can come apart and in my opinion now, would not be a bad idea to take it out and clean it up and check to make sure it's still together and working.
  25. 986Jim
    im running without it right now is that gonna be a problem? I saw tabs in the bottom of the canister for it but it didn't really look like it fit in there to be honest so I have left it out. Maybe I should jack it back up and put that back in the bottom of the filter. I didn't notice it when I pulled it out of the filter and I didn't wanna install it wrong and block the oil flow and smoke the motor. It was the last thing I was doing after installing my new muffler and painting the calipers. I was tired it just wasn't paying attention. When I went to throw the old filter out there it was..
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