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Hi all

I am going to re and re the spark plugs on my 2008 V6 Cayenne. I have the shop manual but was wondering about the technique for pulling the coils...I don't want to break them.

Is this a straight out pull and how much force would be required. I do not have the special coil puller tool but was wondering if a coat hanger wire tightly wrapped around coil will work...I'll report on that.

Thx for any info.

Rick

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The force required will be different for each cylinder. The tool used to remove the coils is not needed but does work very well but I have used angled needle nose plier as a lever on the bottom of the coil to GENTLY lift the coils out. Be sure to used compressed air to clean the spark plug area before and after you remove the spark plug and I use dielectric grease on the area where the coil seals against the cylinder head and where it engages the spark plug to aid in future removal. Have your torque wrench handy to install the new plugs, sorry I don't remember the spec.

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Will you use an anti seize lubricant on the threads as well?

The force required will be different for each cylinder. The tool used to remove the coils is not needed but does work very well but I have used angled needle nose plier as a lever on the bottom of the coil to GENTLY lift the coils out. Be sure to used compressed air to clean the spark plug area before and after you remove the spark plug and I use dielectric grease on the area where the coil seals against the cylinder head and where it engages the spark plug to aid in future removal. Have your torque wrench handy to install the new plugs, sorry I don't remember the spec.

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I'd very strongly suggest never to use anti-seize on any fitting where the manufacturer doesn't specify it's use. On spark plugs it's a bad idea because it can change the effective force when torquing the plug in place, allowing for much higher force on the plug threads for a given turning force. This leads to stripped heads. It also works as an insulator - undesirable when it's in the heat-path used to cool the plug (ie - threads on the plug to threads on the head.) Insulating the heat path will lead to overheating and possibly melting down the spark plug. A bad thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd very strongly suggest never to use anti-seize on any fitting where the manufacturer doesn't specify it's use. On spark plugs it's a bad idea because it can change the effective force when torquing the plug in place, allowing for much higher force on the plug threads for a given turning force. This leads to stripped heads. It also works as an insulator - undesirable when it's in the heat-path used to cool the plug (ie - threads on the plug to threads on the head.) Insulating the heat path will lead to overheating and possibly melting down the spark plug. A bad thing.

I've used it on spark plugs in aluminum heads for years with no problem at all.....on both racing and street engines. Just sayin'.......

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I'd very strongly suggest never to use anti-seize on any fitting where the manufacturer doesn't specify it's use. On spark plugs it's a bad idea because it can change the effective force when torquing the plug in place, allowing for much higher force on the plug threads for a given turning force. This leads to stripped heads. It also works as an insulator - undesirable when it's in the heat-path used to cool the plug (ie - threads on the plug to threads on the head.) Insulating the heat path will lead to overheating and possibly melting down the spark plug. A bad thing.

I've used it on spark plugs in aluminum heads for years with no problem at all.....on both racing and street engines. Just sayin'.......

And I haven't for years. No problem at all. Just sayin'.. and that's anecdotal - which is always open to questioning..

Can you show us any documentation where Porsche recommends it's use?

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I'd very strongly suggest never to use anti-seize on any fitting where the manufacturer doesn't specify it's use. On spark plugs it's a bad idea because it can change the effective force when torquing the plug in place, allowing for much higher force on the plug threads for a given turning force. This leads to stripped heads. It also works as an insulator - undesirable when it's in the heat-path used to cool the plug (ie - threads on the plug to threads on the head.) Insulating the heat path will lead to overheating and possibly melting down the spark plug. A bad thing.

I've used it on spark plugs in aluminum heads for years with no problem at all.....on both racing and street engines. Just sayin'.......

And I haven't for years. No problem at all. Just sayin'.. and that's anecdotal - which is always open to questioning..

Can you show us any documentation where Porsche recommends it's use?

I can't seem to find the link now, but Porsche apparently have a TSB stating that anti-seize paste can insulate the spark plug, preventing a proper ground connection and therefore causing potential misfire issues. I'll post if I can find.

Mark

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I can't seem to find the link now, but Porsche apparently have a TSB stating that anti-seize paste can insulate the spark plug, preventing a proper ground connection and therefore causing potential misfire issues. I'll post if I can find.

Mark

Hmmm.. seems Porsche was thinking along the same lines as what I'd read on other vehicles.. :clapping: :thankyou:

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I just replaced my original Beru's with the Bosch FGR6KQE, which are 4 electrode surface gap plugs, and what the dealer just sold me. Car seems to run about the same as before but on my 50 mile round trip drive to and from work I have have now driven twice since the plug change and averaged about 1 mpg better than before. This could be attributed to the 53K on the original plugs though and not on the Bosch/Beru comparison. The dealer said the are both OEM plugs from Porsche, and that they have seen the Bosch to be a more common replacement in the last year or two compared to the Beru.

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