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mattatk

Durametric & alarm module analysis

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G'day all,

I've disconnected battery -ve terminal on battery to remove seat to follow maintenance manuals alarm troubleshooting.

One step reqs checking for battery voltage from one pin to a ground point.

Does that mean I have to reconnect the battery so I can check for voltage? Is that a prob ref airbags?

Thanks in advance

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Thanks Loren. But am I at risk of setting airbag off if I reconnect the battery with passenger seat out & alarm module removed? I can't see why, but want to check first!!

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Never tried it without all the modules plugged in - you will likely get other faults connecting the battery with the alarm module missing.

Airbags are a separate control unit so you should be okay - just remember at least 5 minutes after disconnecting the battery for the airbag circuit to bleed off power.

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RoW cars are wired differently to US cars, and on the 986 and 996 you can remove the seat without disconnecting the battery, and you won't get an airbag light. The seat belt buckle on RoW cars isn't connected to the airbag circuit.

Edit: the exception being if you have the child seat arbag deactivation kit.

Edited by Richard Hamilton

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Wow thanks for the responses guys...

Reconnected battery to finish "alarm fault 59 - central locking limit switch not reaching safe position"

Troubleshooting by the factory manuals.

Phew, no airbag deployment, ended up getting battery voltage correctly displayed on the pin.

Test procedure failed at 2 spots.

1. Alarm module plug I pin 19 to door plug pin 9 only showed infinite ohms (no circuit?)

2. Alarm module plug II pin 8 to door plug pin 2 also only showed infinite ohms & 0 V

Richard, I guess along the lines of your ROW post, the passenger door plug had no pins at position 2 (& a few other spots)?? Must be a ROW issue. Repair manuals show RHD diagrams but I guess no ROW diagrams.

So I think there is a short(s) along the 2 lines mentioned above? Checked as much of wiring as possible, all looks brand new. Both wires travel together a bit & I thought maybe they are shorting to each other??

Having said that, I am wondering if Durametric's "secure doors" activation is not actually working. (Can't close door for test as the voltmeter has to touch the door plug pin)

Now confused, to pull wire out & rewire would be one hell of a job??

Any ideas??? Thanks to anyone reading this far!!!

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By RoW, I mean everywhere except USA & Canada.

"central locking limit switch not reaching safe position" is one of the classic messages you get when one of the door lock microswitches has broken or stuck.

What exactly are the symptoms? Doors locking and then immediately unlocking?

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The car can be locked by physically putting the key(s) in the door. But the key remotes won't do anything anymore (no lock/unlock, no boot or trunk opening). I've run through all the advice on this forum & in manuals for the remotes (apart from taking it to Porsche!). Remotes have new batteries, Their circuit boards look good. Their LEDs flash when operated (no response from car's LED).

Durametric pulls alarm fault code 59.

It's a problem you could live with, but it's nice to be able to use the remote.

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If you clear the fault code, does it come back? It could be an old fault, long since fixed.

The remotes on 9x6's are notorious for just stopping working. I had two go bad during my 996 ownership. One of them went bad just sitting in my kitchen drawer.

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I've reset the code too many times! It comes every drive cycle I think. Having said that the car alarm works fine by putting the key in the lock. I just want to solve the mystery! I don't think it's the door lock, as the troubleshooting is failing prior (upstream - electrically) to the lock. Somewhere between the door plug & the alarm module. I opened up the alarm casing & it all looked spotty dog. ???

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I assume you are getting a single or double beep when locking. Obviously the door lock motor is actually locking the door, but the error message would suggest that the alarm module is not getting the signal to say it has reached the lock position.

This is normally caused by the micro switch which senses the mechanism has physically reached the lock position, but it could also be a break in the wires to the micro switch. Unusual though.

Early 986's suffered from corroded connectors in the door plugs, but I guess you can rule that out if you have had it to pieces.

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Thanks again Richard. The door plugs & pins looked brand new. I'll have a look at the door lock module & try to find the micro switch.

Because I can't trust the Durametric's alarm system activations (there are no visible signs of them working when selected) & the fact that it may not work 100% for a ROW car, it is hard to use it to eliminate which signal is stuffing the alarm around. For example, if you open the driver's door (RHS) it shows the alarm horn "closed". I reckon their software is only set up for US cars?

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I think the Durametric is fine on RHD cars, but it won't read Actual Values on the alarm system, which is what you need. The Actual Values will show the state of (some of) the door lock microswitches, but you would need a PST2 or PIWIS to read tham.

The difficulty you may have is to determine on which side the problem is occurring....

I haven't taken a door lock to pieces myself, but I have heard people say that it is fairly easy to do. Some have even repaired or replaced microswitches once apart. There are 5 microswitches inside each lock.

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Thanks Richard, I'm going to see if the dealer will look at it for me but let me do the work if it's not too difficult.

Cheers

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Took it to the nice guys at NinePlus. Turned out the key head circuit board was failing (corrosion?). Bit the bullet with a new key & reprogramming, all works OK. Using the faulty key on the door lock was triggering the 59 code. No more reoccurrences!

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I'm not sure where to post this question so Admin please move if necessary.

Durametric - I'm considering buying a used Durametric reader, I don't want a knock off and i do want to be able to upgrade the software to latest version. So questions is, How can I tell if its an original Durametric and it is upgradeable? Do the non pro originals come with three licenses?

Thanks,

Pat.

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The Enthusiast version allow the use on three different cars, the Pro version allows unlimited cars. You need to be careful which version of the cable you are getting, the first generation is no longer supported with software updates. Durametric has an explanation on their website ( Durametric.com) on how to identify which cable is which, as well as how to upgrade from the first generation to the newer cable.

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Thanks JFP, got it.

For others here it is from Durametric -

Version 6 is only compatible with our second generation diagnostic interface cables. If you purchased your kit after February 2008, then it is a second generation kit.
If you aren't sure, check this list:

  • The cables with a box in the middle of the wire are first generation cables and not compatible.
  • Cables with the electronics in the connector can be either first or second generation.
    • If the cable has the light on the side that reads " Durametric," then it is a second generation interface cable and it is compatible.
    • If the cable has the light on the side that reads "Enthusiast" or "Professional," then it is a first generation interface cable and not compatible.
  • Customers with first generation interfaces can upgrade to the second generation interface for $150 USD.
  • For more information about why we are not supporting the first generation interfaces and details about upgrades, please see our Upgrade FAQ

Durametric version 5 and version 6 can be installed at the same time on the same computer.

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