Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Locking Cams Really Necessary on an IMS Replacement?


Recommended Posts

  • Moderators

Came at it with a fresh head after a night of sleep and got the cam tool into place after just 15 mins.

I removed the coolant hoses that run in front of the cam plugs so I could see what I was doing, then jiggled the crank around the TDC point until the cam slots aligned and finally got the tool in place. Turns out that they align when the TDC crank mark is about 2 degrees past the mark on the engine case.

 

I could not tighten the allen head bolt that came with the LN kit, so I cut down and used a 13mm bolt and a cordless ratchet to bolt the tool to the engine case.

 

Onto the tensioners... let battle commence.

 

Glad you got the cam locking tool in place, but does this mean you do not have the TDC pin in place?  If so, you need to address that fact before removing the tensioners.

Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Strange, we still get them with the coating, but then we buy them in bulk.  In any case, the rule of thumb is simple:  Anything that rotates, vibrates, is time consuming to get at, or can come flying

In a 996, "head with tensioner accessed from underside of engine" = bank 1 (left of car) In other words, lock the crank and lock the bank 1 cams. Remove the cam plugs on bank 1 at the left rear of th

It is sounding like your cam timing is already off if you cannot get the cam locking tool in place.  Try rotating the engine 360 degrees (clockwise only) by hand and see if the cams line up better.  I

Posted Images

I managed to get the crank locking pin in place, just, it was right up against the holes and a really tight squeeze.

 

Did that before pulling the tensioners out. I now removed the IMS flange and realized that the old c clip holding the bearing in place is about 15mm wider diameter than the replacement one in the LN kit, and the old bearing itself looks 15mm larger than the new one. Is this just a shell / seal and the actual bearing in a smaller diameter shaft behind it?

 

ims_bearing_zpscbahgj7u.jpg

 

IMS_flange_zpsfxjh1i91.jpg

Edited by SpawnyWhippet
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

I managed to get the crank locking pin in place, just, it was right up against the holes and a really tight squeeze.

 

Did that before pulling the tensioners out. I now removed the IMS flange and realized that the old c clip holding the bearing in place is about 15mm wider diameter than the replacement one in the LN kit, and the old bearing itself looks 15mm larger than the new one. Is this just a shell / seal and the actual bearing in a smaller diameter shaft behind it?

 

ims%20bearing_zps1vpfka7l.jpg

 

You pictures are not showing, try that again with photos of everything you are referring to.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

Yours looks like the M97 larger bearing, which can't be extracted? Was the engine ever replaced?

 

That is exactly were I was going.  I'd also check the engine number for either "AT" or "X" in the sequence.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The engine number says a M96, there is no record of the engine being replaced. I can also wiggle the whole shaft around - it is not bearing play,

 

If this turns out to be a M97, I am going to cry. I spent about 20 hours and more than $1500 in parts and tools already getting to this point...

 

m96_engine_number_zpsmy04f26f.jpg

Edited by SpawnyWhippet
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

The engine number says a M96, there is no record of the engine being replaced. I can also wiggle the whole shaft around - it is not bearing play

 

m96_engine_number_zpsmy04f26f.jpg

 

The "AT" is the number means this is a factory reman replacement engine.  Sorry.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a reman engine! The good news is the IMSB failure rate seems to be much lower than the MkI's bearings as long as you don't track the car.

Edited by Ahsai
Link to post
Share on other sites

John, do you recommend removing the seal on the existing bearing? At least that way spawny can feel he has achieved something :)

 

Spawny, you can sell the IMSB, no? Why $1500?

Link to post
Share on other sites

$1500 was for the bearing, LN tool kit and other tools I needed, seals, bolts etc. I have a new AOS to install with the transmission out, that's about the only saving grace here. The most annoying thing about this is that I checked my engine number was a M96 before I started, as I knew the M97 engines were not serviceable.

 

Calling Pelican now to see if they can take the IMS bearing back.

 

Clutch, RMS etc were replaced only 10k miles ago by the previous owner. I wondered why they hadn't done the IMS then, now I know...

 

Learned a new thing - if there is a AT in the engine number, don't try to change the... :censored:  IMS bearing

Edited by SpawnyWhippet
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

Its 22mm. Does this mean I just wasted more than a week+$1500 pulling all this apart and now have to put it back together again with the old part in place?

 

The only factory IMS bearing that used the 22 MM center bolt was the last design, which unfortunately is the non serviceable unit.  While you have the car apart, it would be advisable to remove the IMS bearing rear seal (using something like a dental pick) so that the oil mist in the engine can lubricate it.  We have several customers running this way without any issues.

 

A couple of "take a way's" for those reading this thread and thinking about doing an IMS retrofit; first always check the engine number for the presence of either "AT" or "X", which indicates a replacement engine, which could mean a non serviceable IMS bearing.  Second, and this is a big one, unless you know for a fact the engine is pre 2000, or 2002 to 2004 (so you have a reasonable chance of which style bearing is in there), do not buy the IMS bearing before you take the car apart.  Many vendors of the LN kits will not take them back or even exchange them.  While you can always recoup what you spent for the LN tool kit, pre purchasing the IMS bearing can be hazardous to your wallet, as they make very expensive paper weights.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice. By "removing the IMS bearing rear seal", are you referring to the black seal at the forward end of the IMS that I can see now that the IMS flange is removed, or is there another behind that? Should I apply any grease after removing the seal, or would that just get washed straight into the engine oil?

 

There was only maybe 1/2 fl oz or 20ml of oil behind the IMS flange when I removed it, as there was nowhere for it to be retained, it all drained out in the slot in the engine case that the c-clip falls into when you remove it from the retaining groove.

 

While you have the car apart, it would be advisable to remove the IMS bearing rear seal (using something like a dental pick) so that the oil mist in the engine can lubricate it.  We have several customers running this way without any issues.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Moderators

 

Thanks for the advice. By "removing the IMS bearing rear seal", are you referring to the black seal at the forward end of the IMS that I can see now that the IMS flange is removed, or is there another behind that? Should I apply any grease after removing the seal, or would that just get washed straight into the engine oil?

 

There was only maybe 1/2 fl oz or 20ml of oil behind the IMS flange when I removed it, as there was nowhere for it to be retained, it all drained out in the slot in the engine case that the c-clip falls into when you remove it from the retaining groove.

 

While you have the car apart, it would be advisable to remove the IMS bearing rear seal (using something like a dental pick) so that the oil mist in the engine can lubricate it.  We have several customers running this way without any issues.

 

 

Yes, you want to remove the black seal that surrounds the center bolt on the IMS bearing.  In doing so, the oil mist that is circulating in that area will constantly lubricate and cool the bearing.  You do not need to apply anything to the bearing.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • RennTech.org Store at Amazon.com



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.