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By Schnell Gelb
I need some advice on what further tests to do before I start disassembling the camshaft.
The code is "1341 = Camshaft adjustment Bank 1 below limit value." But I think this is misleading. Normally , this would be just a failed Solenoid or Variocam actuator. Btw ,these comments apply equally to a Bank 2 fault.
But if you look at the Durametric data below ,there is a hint of a cheaper but much more stupid error.
I recently rebuilt the engine. It runs beautifully. But has only run a few hours because I can't get rid of the 11341 fault code to get a Smog Test.
The Actual Values alone are clear but not when you look at the Deviation, not so much. All values are with a warmed up engine(fans kicked in several times)
1, Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 1, 0.3 to 0.8 deg. At 3000 rpm only 2 degrees ! Bank 1 solenoid measures 13 ohms(perfect) but will not activate with Durametric , nor with the Ahsai 12v battery test.
2. Actual angle at idle rpm, Bank 2, 0.02- 0.2 deg . At 3000 rpm 20 degrees - perfect. Bank 2 solenoid can be activated by Durametric or by the external 12v source.
3, Deviation Position 1 at idle is 14.9 deg and stable - it should be +/- 6 deg !
4. Deviation Position 2 at idle is zero and stable- 0.00 ,nada .
Please check my logic/knowledge here because I need help.
My theory is that I must have failed to time Bank 1 correctly. It is so far out that the Camshaft Advance will not activate ?
The stable deviation is because of new chains,IMSB , chain rail pads and tensioners.
So I need to re-time Bank 1. If it seems to be perfectly timed - look for a Camshaft Position Sensor problem ?
I'll bench test Bank 1 Actuator to see if it has a firm 1/16" 'jump' .If it is doubtful I'll replace it because of the time involved.
Fortunately I have the cam tools and Insite's helpful classic post on timing the M96.
Before I start dismantling , what else to test?
Maybe connect between the Bank 2 harness and Bank 1 to try to activate the camshaft advance (Jake Raby suggested this in a related Thread)
I get no reading on the Multimeter when I connect to the Bank 1 harness but do get the correct voltage (10V) on Bank 2 . No, I did not connect to chassis ground(thanks Ahsai!)
This is an interesting example of needing to use 2 different(but related) readings from Durametric to make an accurate(??) diagnosis. If I had just fitted a new Actuator +solenoid($1000 ! ) ,the basic fault may still be present.And I would have to repeat all that dismantling again !
So thanks for any suggestions of more diagnostic tests.
If I run the car at less than 1/4 tank full it's very smooth great acceleration and responsiveness. With engine running I went and filled up with 99 octane as usual and straightaway the engine stutter comes back!!!!!!!! Fyi it is NOT fuel quality.
I've started a new thread for this but it's an old problem mentioned in previous posts and unresolved.
Basically the ctt 06 with 114,000km has been hesitating and stuttering for a while when accelerating particularly under boost in lower gears through the rev range of 2k 3k 4k ish rpm, it also will vibrate and stutter revving the same rpm in neutral/park when stationary. (which is very weird).
So after a lot of finding issues which helped the car overall none of them sorted this stutter out.
New oem Coils, plugs, n75 valve, air filters, purge valve, and Dv's,
Fixed a lot of vac and pcv pipes which leaked
Smoke tested intake no leaks boost is +0.8
Head Gaskets done a few 1,000 km all new parts gasket Seals etc. (problem was present before and after head Gasket work).
I had a suspicion that the lower fuel level was playing a part in this but I can't work out why a fuller tank would cause running issues?
2007 Carerra S 114,000 miles
I have had a roller coaster ride of dealership attempts to find and repair a hunting idle, hesitation at low-mid RPM range and now a interrmittant intense fuel smell emmitted from right front fender area. If you refer to my previous Tech question you will see multiple parts have been replace trying to find this problem. Throttle body, MAF sensor, Crankshaft sensor, Oil seperator and now the car is back in again for all the same problems. They now have done a fuel system 'smoke' test and did not find any leaks. The mechanic now thinks the Charcoal Fuel Canister feels too 'heavy'? and thinks it might be over saturated with fuel and not purging properly? He thinks this might be causing an OVERLY rich gas mixture 'possibly' contributing to the idle, running and performance issues AND at its extreme moments of further gas fumes induced into the canister it is then purging out to the atmosphere.
Does this all make sense? I guess the fuel smell from this over saturated canister is possible.... but what about the performance, idle hunting, hesitation... etc issues? I should also note that the problems are usually intensified more when the engine is hot. The dealer has had the car on/off about more than I this past month. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
2007 Carerra S
Firsly, my apologies for the long account of events, but my car has been in/out of dealer about 6x in 2 months. They can't figure this out.. so i'm hoping someone out there can shed some light on this.. thank you!
I have had an ongoing and increasing problem(s) for about last 6 months. Not sure if these issues are related or coincidental, but here goes....
Started out with the car dieing out upon its first startup every morning. It would always start up perfectly the 2nd attempt and then a little rough but then even out and be great after that. Dealership said to run a can a seafoam through the gas every other fill up. This would slight help reduce the problem to intermittant but not complete improvement.
Then I noticed the idle becoming a little bit rough at times and gas mileage reducing from about 16 mpg to about 11mpg without any change in driving habits. I also would occasional notice it difficult to smoothly start moving off from a stop because of a slight engine hesitation and found myself giving it more gas that usual to start off the 'line'. (Never felt like a clutch slipping issue). Also cruising between about 3000-4000 rpm I could feel a slight infrequent 'hesitation' in the acceleration.
Then I started to develop (what dealer calls) a 'hunting' idle when stopped with engine running. I also noticed a drop oil pressue to near minimal to what looked like zero at times on the gauge. Then one day the a/c starting blowing warm air along with significant drop in Oil pressure. Dealer replaced the Oil pump.
The 'hunting' idle continued whereas I would be sitting still with engine running and see the rpm fluctuate from about 750rpm and rise up to 1200 and drop to as low as 300. The odd part is this would happen at EXACTLY 20 second intervals. If i gave it some gas.. it would stop for a few moments then start again. (NOTE.. I NEVER HAD ANY CODES or ENGINE LIGHTS).
Dealership replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor ( MAF) .. of which did not help and 2 days later not only did it still hunt.. but actually died out sometimes while idling. I took it back in and dealership said it was the Crankshaft sensor causing the hunting and carbon buildup causing the initial startup problem. They did a engine decarbination and replaced the Crankshaft Sensor.
I received the car back again and STILL had the hunting problem along with the 'hesitation' feel with low speed cruising.
Seemed to be worse when engine was hot. Then one day during the crazy hunting / hesitation issue i pulled into my garage and opened the drivers door and smelled an intense FUEL smell which was coming from the right front fender area.
Took it back to the dealer who swears that there is nothing wrong with the fuel system or vapor canister, etc. (note.. the fuel smell only happened 2 or 3 times and dealer could not reproduce it). HOWEVER, this time they noticed when they gently rested their foot on the gas pedal the RPM when into a crazy constant hunting mode from 750rpm (up to about 2000 down to about 400). Again a ECU code still has NEVER came up.
Dealer disassembled the Throttle body and cleaned it up, then reistalled. Still had the hunting problem and hard 1st start issue. So they ordered and installed a NEW throttle body. Still no change int the problem. So he put the new Throttle body back on and (oddly enough) discovered it was nearly impossible to remove the oil cap while the engine was running. So he determined it was the Oil Seperator that was bad. NOTE: It never had smoke emmiting from tailpipe or any CODE thrown.
So.. they replaced the Oil Seperator which appeared to stop the hunting problem, rough idle and hard start problem. HOWEVER, THEY NEVER FOUND THE REASON FOR THE FUEL SMELL?
I picked up the car 2 days ago.. This is the current status of things...
The hard initial start is much better.. so far has started up on first attempts... and Resting idle is pinned at about 750rpm and doesn't move.
However, I still feel a slight intermittant hesitation when slowly accelerating or trying to maintain about 3-4k rpm.
AND... at idle.. if i rest my foot gently on the gas pedal.. (for example.. trying hold about 1,000rpm, I still get hunting significant hunting oscillating the rpm from 750 up to about 1200 and down to about 500)
The service manage said this is normal because the car thinks i'm moving and i'm not?? huh?? If i try doing this when engine is cold or warm (just after intial warmup) it doesn't do it... but will do it badly when hot. NOTE this is the Arizona heat! Service manager feels this is normal and stated it was hunting much higher before with light pedal touch, but says this is normal.
Can you PLEASE let me know your thoughts on this? I do not think a light touch of the gas pedal should cause a crazy oscillation of the RPM's. Also the car still feels like its hesitating during slow, smooth acceleration.
Like its trying to take a breath while its increasing speed?
Does it sound like a fuel issue? They stated fuel pressure was good, but they still do not know the cause of the fuel vapor leak/smell from before? The gas mileage is still at around 12 mpg (with standard driving)
The one thing the service manager also cant understand is why the ECU still hasn't thrown any codes during any of this?
Could the ECU be bad?
Can a worn clutch cause any of these symptoms? (its never during shifting)
Why the gas smell/bad gas mileage, etc?
Please... any suggestion would be greatly appreciated!! THANK YOU!!!
My 2004 CS seems to be a little weak to get up & go since I got it last summer, but still much more power than the car it replaced. I wrote it off thinking, "it's not a turbo, so what do you expect?"
I did the plugs and air filters in the fall, and replaced the valve cover gasket on the driver side where it leaked the most. Still no major differences, not that I expected any.
Went out to buy some throttle body cleaner the other day, and on my way to the store I got a phone call which prompted me to turn off the climate control (click the fan speed down to 0, temperature display shows 'OFF'). On my drive home the Cayenne drove *totally* differently. Really ballsy on the pickup, tons of pull.
A few days later, I realized the car was especially chilly / foggy, so I turned the climate control back on. Sure enough, she was sluggish again to get going!
Anyone see this kind of thing before, and know what might be causing it? As far as I know, most cars "back off" on A/C and heat when the driver calls for acceleration, but that's definitely not happening here. Also, with the colder weather I'm not sure whether the Cayenne is engaging the A/C in addition to the heat.
Any insight would be appreciated!