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9A1 105 308 03 VVS (02 superseded by 03 variable valve system actuator)

Anyone replace one?
What are the symptoms?
How do you identify which one may be lazy?

How many per bank?  The PET digram denotes (1) so I assume that is one per side no?

These appear very easy to replace as the sit next to the spark plugs.  I will be doing my plugs in a few months, early spring so I am thinking of just swapping these out.

 

The reason is that pesky hesitation I get under moderate load at around 2800 RPM.  The dealer, as others on various boards, think it is the variocam transition.  This looks like about a $150 dollar each part.  I am willing to throw $300 at this issue.

 

I do have the Durametric Pro.... but no clue as to what to look for regarding these actuators.

Peace
Bruce in Philly
2009 C2S Coupe

Edited by Loren

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9A1 105 308 03 VVS (02 superseded by 03 variable valve system actuator)

Anyone replace one?

What are the symptoms?

How do you identify which one may be lazy?

How many per bank?  The PET digram denotes (1) so I assume that is one per side no?

These appear very easy to replace as the sit next to the spark plugs.  I will be doing my plugs in a few months, early spring so I am thinking of just swapping these out.

 

The reason is that pesky hesitation I get under moderate load at around 2800 RPM.  The dealer, as others on various boards, think it is the variocam transition.  This looks like about a $150 dollar each part.  I am willing to throw $300 at this issue.

 

I do have the Durametric Pro.... but no clue as to what to look for regarding these actuators.

Peace

Bruce in Philly

2009 C2S Coupe

 

 I would start by looking at the cam deviation values on both banks; as the VarioCam+ kicks in, the deviation values should both be moving in the same direction by approximately the same amount with climbing RPM.  If the suspect bank is not following the opposite bank, the actuator's are probably on the way out.  I would, however, expect the car to code if one actuator is problematic. 

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 I would start by looking at the cam deviation values on both banks; as the VarioCam+ kicks in, the deviation values should both be moving in the same direction by approximately the same amount with climbing RPM.  If the suspect bank is not following the opposite bank, the actuator's are probably on the way out.  I would, however, expect the car to code is one actuator is problematic. 

 

 

Thanx JFP,  I think you mistyped that last sentence and I think you meant that if one actuator was a bit lazy, it would throw a code.  It is not throwing any codes at all. 

 

This issues is the classic hesitation at around 2700-2800 RPM that various folks have complained about...  I know of no one who replaced these actuators.... I was just thinking of a hail mary pass and was thinking of trying it.

 

Thanx for the advice.  Using the Durametric for this advanced stuff makes me nervous but I will give it a try when the weather improves here in Philly.

 

Peace

Bruce

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 I would start by looking at the cam deviation values on both banks; as the VarioCam+ kicks in, the deviation values should both be moving in the same direction by approximately the same amount with climbing RPM.  If the suspect bank is not following the opposite bank, the actuator's are probably on the way out.  I would, however, expect the car to code is one actuator is problematic. 

 

 

Thanx JFP,  I think you mistyped that last sentence and I think you meant that if one actuator was a bit lazy, it would throw a code.  It is not throwing any codes at all. 

 

This issues is the classic hesitation at around 2700-2800 RPM that various folks have complained about...  I know of no one who replaced these actuators.... I was just thinking of a hail mary pass and was thinking of trying it.

 

Thanx for the advice.  Using the Durametric for this advanced stuff makes me nervous but I will give it a try when the weather improves here in Philly.

 

Peace

Bruce

 

 

I don't see why you should ever be afraid of the Durametric Pro system; you are not altering anything, you are just reading data that the car is generating.  I would also warm the car up fully before testing it by taking it for a 20 min. or so drive first.

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