Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Poze123

Porsche 2000 - 996 Carrera Battery Drain - Alternator Hums and isn&#39

Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

I started another post similar where I thought the Horn was the culprit of my battery drain, but it was actually the Alternator causing me a drain, so thought I would summarise the issue on a new post so that this might help other 996 owners and save them a lot of money and time!

 

This is the original post and is detailed, so take a look at this afterwards:

 

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48867-2000-porsche-996-battery-drains-the-alarm-horn-is-a-constant-3v-and-hums/page-3

Issue/Fault:

So my 2000 Carrera Cabriolet was draining the battery in around 6 days, I was showing around 390ma of draw with the car locked and powered down, it should be upto 50ma, so I'm draining a Lot more!

 

The drain was coming from the Alternators thin Blue wire, the one that goes to the regulator on the back of it.  The wire was showing 3.7v Constantly with the Iginition off/car locked and 10.8v with the Key On/car started.

 

I spent money on x2 Diagnostics, new ignition, I also removed all fuses, relays, Speedo Cluster, Blubs, ABS unit, PSM/ASR etc (All are linked to this Blue wire), but nothing helped, the fault seems to be in the middle of the Loom somewhere.

 

FIX:

I could not trace the fault to this 3.7v and I'm fed up of charging the battery and working on the car--- so I removed the rear passenger door panel, carpet and plastic cill tunnel to gain access to Connector "x2/3 black", the blue wire runs through this on Pin5. I unplugged this connector, I then Cut the blue wire as it went into the x2/3, I  lenghtned these wires by 12". I  then removed some of the sheathing on Pin 4 which is Black/Brown, I then soldered 12" of thin wire onto this, insulated all of these wires of course as cabled tied then neatly back up. I then installed a relay onto these 3 wires, and added a 4th Earth wire which I secured behind the door panel to bare metal. I also added a 5Amp fuse onto the relays power wire (the wire coming of the Black/Brown) .

 

I then mounted this relay behind the door panel, well below the speaker (so the speakers magnet does not interfere with the relay). I can then remove the speaker and access the relay Easily, should I need to in the future.

 

 

 

So Finally after months of research on the net, money spent and loads of evenings in the car, Its now Fixed!

 

I did have 390ma Drain, now its 30ma which is very low and awesome!! I don't think I will need to charge the car again as It should last ages and ages unused in the garage and start easily!

 

I would have loved to have found the actual Real fault but without stripping the dash off and hunting for these wires in this area, then I've done everything possible that I can access.  I'm just pleased to not need to charge the car and now I can actually Chill and just enjoy owning, driving and polishing my 996!

 

 

Hope this info helps.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Dlowe
      Hi everyone, I just got a set of gauges for a 2005 996. I'm building a simulator for PC and would like to wire the gauges to work with racing games. I am in need of the wiring diagrams for the cluster. If anyone has a picture or manual that can help me out it would be great! Looking for inputs, power, signal.
    • By Ravi Matharu
      Hi,
       
      My 99 996 has started beeping twice when I press the key fob.
       
      It locks and then immediately unlocks.
       
      Also when opening the drivers side door, the window goes down when handle is pulled but goes straight back up when the handle is released. So the window obstructs the door closing.
       
      I have the following Durametric Alarm errors:
        11
      Voltage failure during alarm
      output
      Status: not present
      Frequency counter: 1 10
      Voltage failure at terminal 30
      with alarm system active
      Status: not present
      Frequency counter: 1 46
      Control locking synchronization

      Status: not present
      Frequency counter: 2 49
      K lead

      Status: not present
      Frequency counter: 1 21
      W lead ( DME immobilizer)

      Status: not present
      Frequency counter: 1  
      What's the best way to proceed with fixing this?
       
      Thanks
      Ravi
    • By moondoggy
      hopefully simple question.  helping 996 owner on facebook 996 site.  he asks if rear view mirror for 996 and 997 interchangeable.  
    • By Michael hurta
      Hi - 2002 996: Scoured the lists but can't find this particular cluster problem anywhere.  In short, my salvage cluster shows a list of errors on start up but my original was fine....  Here's the details.  My current cluster shows an intermittent airbag failure warning on the led screen followed by the idiot light.  It usually occurs at start up, clears at the stalk and the idiot light remains on, but flickers on occasion.  My mechanic had ruled out everything he could related to the airbag warnings and since he didn't have a spare cluster, couldn't swap to test for that. I personally purchased a salvage cluster, removed the battery terminals, installed it and it came to life (I'm also having to buy replacement connector housings because mine disintegrated).  The problem is the info screen pretty much scrolled through a variety of issues like oil pressure feedback, temp feedback, fuel feedback, etc.  The oil pressure gage was also unresponsive.  I expected the odometer to be wrong, but didn't expect all the errors.  I also started the car and while it ran, it did run rough, sputtered a bit.  Do I have a bad salvaged cluster?  Does the cluster need to be programmed (beside the odometer)?  
    • By Kevin Bryck
      2002 996
       
      Welcome everyone to another installment highlighting the wonderful world of fragile Porsche parts!
       
      Have both 17" and 18" wheels and have recently lost the metal Center Cap logo medallion off of one wheel of each size.
      While removing the other center caps every remaining medallion fell right off in my hand.
      Metal medallion secured with a random dab of some type of adhesive.
       
      We have reached the end of lifespan of whatever adhesive the Center Cap supplier used to keep precious colored metal medallions stuck to those cheap plastic caps.
       
      Anyone know how to remove old adhesive?
      Anyone have any idea what adhesive to replace it with?
      Anyone know how much the Porsche/Piech families made selling replacement center caps last year?
       
      Remember when paying through the nose for your precious replacement Center Caps that the Porsche and Piech families are the 7th wealthiest oligarchs in the world per Wikipedia.
       
       



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.