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Recommended Posts

2012 Cayenne S.

Car just won't start with the battery fully charged. When I try to start I hear a single click.. nothing else. I checked the battery and it shows 13.89v. All the lights inside including the dash, blinkers, tail light, headlights work just fine... but the engine is not getting any power I think...

I tried to jump start the car, but the car is getting no power whatsoever when I connect an external battery via the jump start terminals. Not even a single light... it's completely dead.

 

I think there is a disconnect between the main power distributor and the fuse box in the engine compartment. Could it be the relay 433 in the engine bay fuse box? If the relay goes bad, would it completely cut off the power to the engine? 

 

 

Anyone has the wiring diagram? I'd greatly appreciate any help on this. Thanks!

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Hope these diagrams help, but as Wizard suggested, I would be double checking all connections (particularly grounds and grounding points). I have had this same problem (click...but no start) recently on two separate vehicles--each had a bad ground that turned out to be the culprit. These problems are a pain to troubleshoot because in my cases they were "hiding in plain sight":

Case 1: Battery post clamp seems to be tightened properly, but closer inspection reveals a cracked post clamp and insecure connection.

Case 2: A loose connection between 2 grounding cables attached at a plastic junction block caused arcing/heating which caused melting plastic to form an insulator between the two connections.

Both cases allowed enough current to run most electrical things except the very high current required by the starter.

 

Starting-Charging-4.8L.pdf

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Hope these diagrams help, but as Wizard suggested, I would be double checking all connections (particularly grounds and grounding points). I have had this same problem (click...but no start) recently on two separate vehicles--each had a bad ground that turned out to be the culprit. These problems are a pain to troubleshoot because in my cases they were "hiding in plain sight":

Case 1: Battery post clamp seems to be tightened properly, but closer inspection reveals a cracked post clamp and insecure connection.

Case 2: A loose connection between 2 grounding cables attached at a plastic junction block caused arcing/heating which caused melting plastic to form an insulator between the two connections.

Both cases allowed enough current to run most electrical things except the very high current required by the starter.

Thanks guys. I really think it's the power distributor connections. When I replaced it, I must have missed some connections or something is loose. The car gets no power when external power is connected at the jump terminals...so there is a disconnect between the engine power bay and the distributor... just can't figure it out yet. Could it be the relay in the distributor? The 40Amps fuse on the top of the distributor looks good but when I unplug it, nothing happens.. what is that fuse for?

 

IMG_20160510_213508704_zpszzkzxjqh.jpg

Edited by Nixer
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I have figured out what the problem is. It's the pyro fuse link in the distributor. When I remove the link and short circuit the terminals, the car starts just fine. 

 

Here is the history of my car and what I am doing. My car was in an accident and the driver side airbag got deployed. So the pyro fuse link in the distributor got destroyed and the shop that was working on the car soldered the terminals to bypass the link.

here are some pictures showing that.  It is also referred as BATTERY OVERLOADPROTECT FUSE AUTOMAT and battery main switch. I can't find much information on it online.

 

80-img_20160510_213508704_zpszzkzxjqh_19

 

80-80_img_20160512_240720301_5058985acc7

 

However the shop that was working on my car is permanently closed and I have the car in my garage. I was able to find an used distributor with good pyro link(at least that's what I thought) and put it on my car. Now the car won't start. Here is a picture showing the pyro link

 

80-80_57_184793576ff7e6533e1a3d4b93b1c81

 

Today I removed the link and connected the 2 terminals using a solid plate which I took from my old distributor. The car starts just fine and has about 12.8v in the jump terminals. I put the pyro link back again to check...0v at the jump start terminals. The car interior lights and headlights work just fine... just the engine bay is not getting any power. I am glad at least I know the problem is with the fusible link. 

 

I am not sure if there is a fuse that also got destroyed when it blew the pyro link. I am going to get a new one to see if that will help.

I need to get the wiring diagram and see if there is a fuse attached to the wires connecting to the link... I visually checked all the fuses and they all look just fine. Unless the shop removed the one off of fusebox, I don't think there is a bad fuse.

Edited by Nixer
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usually the pyro switch knocks out the power supply. It would be ideal to have a PIWIS tester and even after replacing the pyro switch, I still might need access to the control units to reset everything... I dont have access to PIWIS..can durametric reset all the warnings?
Edited by Nixer
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