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I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
List of what was replaced:
All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
2 Inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
By Andre Kristian
Hi guys, Newbie to the forum here. I have a 2002 996 C2 Cab new to me and been enjoying it since I got it 2 years ago. Mostly trouble free until two weeks ago when the cab top started to acting up and then quit all together. I had to do the emergency manual procedure, after checking all the obvious stuff (i.e. fuses, relays, micro-switches all tested and works). I started taking the mechanism apart, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, put it back together, run the calibration (Durametric), things start to work again wonderfully (or so I thought). The clam-shell lid started to hesitating and eventually got stuck halfway. I had to do the manual emergency operation again. Durametric gave a timeout error, the problem seems to be the clam-shell lid. Removed the motor and turned the mechanism manually it moves smoothly. Removed the lid motor by connecting it directly to the AC battery it's humming but the gear seems to turn hesitantly. So I took the motor apart and I found out that the plastic gear got chewed on one area (see attached pictures) where the worm gear rotating. I tried to rebuild the gear teeth by using JB Weld (and all kinds of epoxies brands and types), it's always working for a while and then same thing at the same area got chewed again. I guess it's not strong enough to hold the metal turning screw. My question now is, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor or do you guys have any recommendation if I can get this gear fix or custom made obviously within reasonable price (scratch that I just check with a CNC machine company it will cost roughly $300-$400). The price of a new motor is around 600 dollars at Sunset Porsche, a used one at eBay maybe around 300 - 400 dollars with the whole mechanism (which I don't need). Any suggestion is appreciate it. -Andre
All of a sudden my top is not sitting flush with the body when the roof is open
The light goes out indicating that the car thinks the top is all the way down. The clamshell goes down evenly, not askew. The front is aligned correctly, but the back of the clamshell just sits proud of the bodywork by maybe 1/2". Enough that it's visibly not fully closed when seen in my rear view mirror. I cycled the top up (works fine) and down (same problem). Had someone try to help it down that last little bit, to no avail. No unusual noise when operating the top
Any thoughts on what's wrong and how to correct it. No recent work has been done on the top, but it is a milder version of what I saw when I had the immobilizer replaced (2 years ago for water intrusion) and the Porsche dealer failed to fit the top back on properly.