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It was recently brought to my attention that the heads of the wheel lugs in my car are 17 mm instead of 19 mm (factory lugs). Is there any problem with that? Is it possible that also the length of the lugs is not standard?
I am going to get rid of the lock keys. Therefore I will need to buy 4 new lugs, if I keep the other 17 mm lugs. Any chances that lugs with same diameter and length, but made by different manufacturers, may have different weights , which would affect the wheel balance?
I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work?
List of what was replaced:
All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease
All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots
All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue)
All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units
2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto.
2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units.
2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto.
2 Inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color
4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units
Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings
factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
By Bobcat Sig
If my interwebbing is at all correct, there seems to be some differences between the 955/7 and the 958 wheels. I know they are interchangeable between vehicles, but I suspect there's some difference between the backspacing and offsets.
I'm trying to get some some proper and semi-aggressive AT tires fitting to my CD. While I know the OEM 255/55-18 tires will fit with no issues, I'm wondering if I can't get a slightly taller and/or wider tire on my rig. Having access to OEM wheel specs should help me in that quest.
Can you point me to a resource for OEM wheels specs? Specifically, the 18 inch wheels?
I'm new to the forum here. I have a 1998 Boxster which had been lovely to me until recently when I began experiencing issues with the top. Same story, different time... one of the cables broke, didn't realize it, something got bent. Don't know what. So.. I've disconnected the front arms from the convertible top, and also taken the push rods off of the clamshell so that I can operate it manually. Even with the clamshell operating manually, the clamshell sits ~1-2" too high on the right hand side, and must be forced down! Please don't say the transmissions are not in sync, as this is without even hooking up the transmissions!
I have already replaced the guide arms on both sides as well as the clamshell slides. Is it really possible that the clamshell itself bent? I have already tried loosening all of the bolts that hold the clamshell to the guidearms, and even with shifting that the situation does not improve. The eccentrics on the sliding rails only slightly help it. Can anyone please help? The vehicle has been down for two months as I try and get to the bottom of this.
I did my first track day in my 997.2 S, and am hooked. Next up is to avoid grinding down my street rubber, and move to DOT approved dry tires and wheels. I currently have 19" wheels on the car, but am thinking of going to "-1" or 18" wheels as there seem to be more tire options, and they are a bit less expensive. I've got the following questions:
1. What wheel widths should I be looking for?
2. What is the corresponding tire sizes?
3. What offset is 'right' and if right is different from 'acceptable' what's the range?
4. Any tire recommendations (folks at the track were raving about the Nittos)?