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By Scott Clinton
I have a 2002 Porsche 996 Cabrio and earlier this year the immobolizer under the seat got wet. I purchased a used immobilizer, key for and ECU behind the rear seat. All of the parts came from the some year model etc. I put the parts in myself and everything worked great. Now i need a new key fob or atleast I think i do. The remote work sometimes and most of the time is doesn't. When its not working I cant lock or unlock the car with the remote and the front trunk will not open with the fob or the switch inside the car. When the fob works everthing works as it should in the car. Do you think this is a key fob issue or something else? Can i even get a key head programmed since these part are from a donor car? I do have the vin of the donor car.
By Philip Adler
Since I bought my Boxster the key-fob never worked, so my usual practice
is to put my key into the cylinder and turn it to unlock.
So this week, I did the procedure I've done hundreds of times, when after opening,
the resistance I've always felt while turning the lock disappeared! I could now
turn the key left and right, a full 180 degrees without any resistance. No movement
in the door latch.
And yet, when I roll the car down the driveway, the door locks do engage and so does the
latch. Something mechanical must have slipped off the cylinder assembly, and I know I'll
have to take the door apart to find out,
I'm wondering if anyone has had the same situation and what they've done to fix it.
I have a tough question for any advanced Renntech users who have either stripped a 997 back to minimum wiring for racing, or fixed key issues
Can anyone help with my alarm issues.
Im building a 997 Track car- using a salvage chassis and the remaining parts from a rolled and written off cabriolet. Im think the key worked to unlock to car before i pulled it apart, but cant be certain as the engine was already out so there were limit functions to activate then.
Since moving the dashboard and whole wiring loom into race chassis, I can unlock the doors (yes, its the correct key, ive moved the doors over too), and the dashboard lights up to tell me the current odometer values. However the whole time from when the battery is connected, the alarm siren is going off (currently a clamp muffles that noise to save the neighbors). I can put the key in the barrel, rotate, and then still remove it (the Barrel lock appears to electrically be live, as it releases the key).
My guess if that the key has lost its coding for the alarm system, but I've tried following these instructions, https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...working-2.html,
with all combinations of button holding, pushing the hazard light switch, foot on brake, and key in/out barrel .... without any success in recoding the key.
Its worth noting the windows dont go through the usual drop down upon lifting the door latch sequence, im assuming this is due to the alarm running.
- my options seem to be getting the local agent to reprogram the key
- are there any other steps i should try to revive the key. I do only have 1 for the wrecked chassis's system
- a final last though is am i missing some switch that needs bridging from the cabriolet circuits to tell if the roof is down/up
By Bobcat Sig
If my interwebbing is at all correct, there seems to be some differences between the 955/7 and the 958 wheels. I know they are interchangeable between vehicles, but I suspect there's some difference between the backspacing and offsets.
I'm trying to get some some proper and semi-aggressive AT tires fitting to my CD. While I know the OEM 255/55-18 tires will fit with no issues, I'm wondering if I can't get a slightly taller and/or wider tire on my rig. Having access to OEM wheel specs should help me in that quest.
Can you point me to a resource for OEM wheels specs? Specifically, the 18 inch wheels?
I just purchased a 2015 Cayenne Diesel. When I lock the car, it used to lock down AND made a chirping sound. After replacing a couple of fuses ("shuffling" as a matter of figuring out which fuse to replace), it stopped chirping. The door lock light comes on steady for several seconds then starts blinking. Thought it may be the "horn setting" but I can't find it in the manual. I suspect that one of the fuses I unplugged may have reset this setting? Does anyone know how to restore the original "lock and chirp" setting.