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To all 996 owners with PSE, especially those with a 4S.
I think my 996 C4S exhaust behaves oddly. I think it's a fault but you might tell me it's normal behaviour. The problem is that I've always had this 'fault' on my car so I don't know if it's a fault or intentional behaviour. If you have the same car, perhaps you can shed some light on this.
When I start it, it's noisy and sounds great. It quiets down as it runs for the first 5 mins.
I have the PSE system and when I press the button you can audibly hear the exhaust note change - quieter when on and louder when off. Default is off so loud.
Here's the rub. Up to around 1500rpm it's got a good noise then it fades out to the point where it's so quiet it's like driving my partners Yaris. If I keep accelerating, when I get to around 3500rpm the exhaust suddenly gets loud again. I mean it's immediate - like someones flipping a switched marked loud. It sounds great.
It happens in 2nd and 3rd gears most noticeably and the PSE is in the 'off' position. If I have the PSE button on, then it's just quiet all the time and that works fine.
So why the silent spot?
I did read somewhere that German market cars might have had a system that turns on and off the PSE at certain speeds to prevent people driving round residential streets with a loud exhaust but information is thin and I don't think I was ever on UK cars.
I have also had a small go at checking vacuum pressure at idle on both sides of the Y piece in the engine bay but both hold good pressure. One side has only a microscopic leak but not enough to cause this kind of issue.
This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !
Hi dear Macan owners,
Currently, I'm looking to buy a 2016 (or newer) Macan S and wanted to kindly ask for some input from experienced Macan owners.
I apologize if such questions were asked many times before, but I swear I did my fair share or searching and found some basic information or answered my own questions.
Below is what I'd like to know before I buy my Macan S:
1. I owned an Audi S4 for 2 years and did all the diagnostics via VAG-COM cable and VCDS myself.
When I'll be test driving and choosing my future Macan, I'd like to run diagnostics myself using a semi-professional tool. As far as I understand VSG-COM/Ross-tech cable won't work for a Macan. What would you recommend to scan for codes? I found people use either Autel MD808, Durametric, PIWIS, or Schwaben Pro Scan Tool on this forum. I don't really need anything crazy... Just a good scanner for codes. Thoughts?
2. As far as I understand Macans had a minor facelift in 2016 - is that correct? Is there a huge difference between 2015 and 2016 or between 2016 and 2017 model years? Which model year would you recommend?
3. I'm mostly looking into Macan S models since GTS/Turbo in the US come with air suspension by default and it must be very expensive to fix (if, let's say, outside warranty). Am I correct? I don't really want to tack on huge repair bills and would be pretty happy with the regular sport suspension of Macan S.
4. From what I read the most common issue with Macans is the transfer case failure. Is there anything else I should be concerned about or pay close attention while inspecting/test driving? (I'm not talking about oil/coolant/brake fluid leaks)
5. Is there a tool/website to decode trims/options for Macans based off of a VIN number? I'd love to find one with the sport exhaust (for example) or with some other [insert option name here] but aside from looking for specific buttons inside the car I'm not sure how else to figure out options purchased by the original owner.
Thank you! Your answers and input are much appreciated!
I tried doing a search on this topic, but was unable to find a definite answer. I am wondering if anyone on this forum has actually replaced their Macan's original battery other than at a Porsche dealership. The OE Porsche battery is a Varta AGM 12V 92Ah 520A DIN. I have seen what I think are exorbitant charges for replacement at Porsche dealerships. Contrary to what some are saying, I believe that AGM batteries, being completely sealed and presenting little or no hazard of acid spills, may be shipped. Sunset Porsche seems to have about the lowest price I have seen at $331.
Varta does not seem to sell batteries in North America other than through dealerships. So, following a little research, I think I found another possible source for our batteries. Interstate sells an MTX-49H8 that is AGM and seems to be a direct replacement for our Varta batteries except that it is rated at 95Ah instead of the Varta's 92Ah, a minor difference. The case dimensions are identical. The price at my local Interstate shop is $203, a substantially less amount than the dealership prices. They have them in stock.
So, here is a potential problem: viewing YouTube videos of Varta installations, the hangup may be in "registering" a non-Varta battery. The registration appears to be done using the Porsche PIWIS unit and requires inputing a serial number from the new battery to complete the process. Can you plug in info from a non-Varta battery and have it accepted?
Anyone have any experience or learned advice about this?
Hello there, this is my first post here and I’m writing because of problem with my boxster.
Today in the morning I’ve started my 2002 boxster and noticed strange sounds from the engine/ rear side of the car
It’s a metallic, grinding sound like a loose piece of metal or something like that
Sound disappears when you press gas and comes back once you loose the pedal, I don’t know if it changes while engine is warm
Also, check engine light shown up yesterday, when I connected my BT OBD2 there was no error code.
I came with that to workshop also, and they said it’s a catalyst efficiency error.
I’ve had that error code a while ago, I’ve replaced mass air flow meter and check engine light disappeared.
I think it might be a problem with maf again because I bought not the cheaper, not the original one, but why are there these strange sounds? I’m worried about this. Could it be catalyst this time? Or again should I replace maf? This time I’ll buy original one.
here are two Videos I made
Also I’m sorry if you can’t understand something, my english is not perfect.
Thank you for all replies, I hope we will solve that problem together