Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Schnell Gelb

Airbag on Steering Wheel Removal

Recommended Posts

2001 Boxster S, 3 spoke Steering Wheel.

I'm trying to remove the Airbag to fix a Horn  problem. To do the OBC mod you might also need to remove the wheel for some methods.So this issue may have a broader appeal?

The removal Procedure seems simple - Bentley Sect 69-10 has details

I slackened the two  T30 x m6, 10,5 ( # 99907318302  ) screws at the back of the Steering Wheel.They were very stiff to start with ,then became easier.I did not use a soldering iron to soften the Loctite on these two T30 screws.Despite many rotations, the screws are still firmly attached to the plate/Retaining Frame with no indication of "letting go".

According to Pelican and at least 1 video there is no need to totally remove either of the two screws - just slacken them. The 2 screws seem to be held captive in the Retaining Frame when they have disconnected from the Airbag assy.

  But both screws just spin endlessly and still seem firmly connected to the plate.  I assume they are cross threaded in the large plate behind the Steering Wheel(the one held by 4 bolts).

I have tried a wedge between the airbag and the Steering wheel while spinning  the screw with a cordless drill. No result.

The remaining option to extract the 2 screws is to  drill off the screw heads. This is very difficult because both are recessed and obstructed by the wheel and instrument binnacle !

Does anyone have a less brutal method of removing the airbag with 2 cross-threaded screws ?It is too late to try softening the Loctite now !

I checked lots of other Posts on the airbag/Steering Wheel removal subject but did not find any other examples of this problem. Some have stripped the internal flutes of the Torx head but no cross-threading that I found.

Thank you for any suggestions.

BTW, this was an interesting related link that I seldom see quoted- great photos:

file:///C:/Users/hp/AppData/Local/Temp/Temp1_obc_stalk.zip/obc_stalk.pdf

Edited by Schnell Gelb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
    You can remove these ads by becoming a Contributing Member.

I had a similar situation with my 01'S and 02 base. What I did was push the airbag in, in return that pushes the screws through the rubber hole and let's you unscrew they enough to get the airbag out. The problem is they push against the rubber hole and get jammed enough to not fully unscrew


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks ,I'll try that right now !

Unfortunately it did not work. What I should have mentioned is that not only can't the screws be removed but they  can not be tightened either. They just spin in both directions. So it must be the cross threading that is retaining them , not the rubber in the Steering Wheel.

This is also the problem with the proposal to drill the screw heads off. The screws will just spin when the drill bit starts to 'bite'.

I am reluctant to start excavating 2 large holes in the back of the Steering Wheel so that I can fit a small grinding wheel on a Dremel.

JB Weld a T30 bit to the screws and then attach a slide hammer?

Worse, I am unsure if removing the heads of the screws would free the airbag.

The screws would still be retained on the plate(aka Retaining Frame- # 99334708801  )  by whatever makes them 'captive'.

The temporary solution is to fit a separate horn+button .The power source would be a piggy-back "Add a Circuit on the Wiper fuse location t C6. The alternative is to use the original horn fuse B3 .

I hope someone comes up with a method of removing those 2 pesky screws.

The specific horn problem on my car has been discussed before. It works without the key in the ignition.It does not work with the engine running.Usually a broken wire behind the Airbag.

Meanwhile I rigged a temporary MOM push switch and substituted a Nautilus horn in the original location.Much better sound.

Edited by Schnell Gelb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By greenrs
      So only managed to see a black square of tape expertly placed over the Airbag light (ON all the time), only because of driving it in the sun with the top down. Been concentrating on other parts of the car.
      Any-who, that has lead to seeing that the Seatbelt light doesn't appear at all, and closely related, the horn didn't have a fuse in it at all.
       
      So this has brought up a question, the Codes reported, the electrical drawings (Bentley), ....while they say "passenger" or "driver" side, does this in fact relate to the left and right side of the car when it is the probably more common "left-hand drive"?
      Code 30 Ignition Circuit, side airbag passenger................is that actually the right side?
      This will not reset with the Durametric. I looked at the airbag connector in the left door, but now I am thinking it may actually relate to the other side of the car, i.e. LHD passenger
       
      Interestingly, the Airbag module wiring, Passenger Side Belt Lock, that wire is cut at the plug and a grafted in wire (plug connected) heads off under the dash somewhere (yet to be traced).
      So that Br/Bl wire say passenger, but maybe it relates to the right hand side of the car, in this case the drivers seat.
      BTW, the left seat, (passenger), does not have a wire at the buckle, but I think maybe the RHD ROW, or Australian RHD cars didn't have that anyway. Or has been replaced with the wrong buckle.
       
      So maybe the Airbag light was covered to avoid looking for a fault, might be a plug.
      Could it be related to the seat-belt buckle, again patched to avoid fixing it properly? The light doesn't even go with the self-test, so could be a bulb.
      I have read that the seat belt buckle may not be included in the Airbag ignition circuit for this region.
       
      Horn didn't have a fuse in it. Relay operates with the horn pad, but no horns, so maybe bad horns.
      The fuse may also have been removed if it had that bad horn pad issue and going off on its own.
       
       
       
    • By Travisb
      Greetings and thank you for the informative site.
       
      I am a new owner of a 2009 Cayenne base model with dead Horn.  I’ve read on the forum of typical failures, including steering wheel wire and two horn units. So far I’ve confirmed the fuse is ok.
       
      Before removing wheel arch covers to test the horns, I wanted to check the relay.
       
      Is the horn relay in the under hood fuse box? If so, which position?
       
      thank you,
      Ben
    • By bikereighard
      First post here but not new to the vehicle forums. I have an 06 Cayenne S and the horns do not work. I did not check them when I bought it and am still new to the Porsche world. I guess I did not check the horn because I was still focused on the problems it was having with the engine. I ended up swapping the engine and still have the old one on the stand. I may rebuild it some day.
      But anyway, the horns do not work right now. I have checked the fuse. I pulled the steering wheel apart and found the wire for the signal. I do get a signal when the wheel is compressed so that is not the issue.
      I pulled one of the horns off and checked it on a spare battery by connecting each terminal to the + and -. It seems as though the horn does not work at all. I do know that this is a common issue.
      I checked to see if I was getting a signal out of the plug. I checked with a testing light and my meter for volts, amps and ohms. I did not get anything when the horn was pressed.
      So I have been looking for a wiring diagram. I don't know if the two posts in the plug are for + and - or if there may be some type of voltage regulation in the signal between the two and the ground (-) would be pulled from the chassis through the bolt.
      Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the horns? I would like to see the whole circuit. 
    • By JasonStern
      So the bushings on my 996's steering wheel are starting to fail, leading to the occasional connector contact being made despite no force being applied. This is a common problem. I did search. It can be fixed easy enough and I found posts explaining workarounds. But unfortunately I was unable to come up with a specific answer to this question - "Does the three spoke steering wheel suffer from the same bushing/contact problem as the four spoke?"
       
      Thanks!
    • By boxster_nut
      Weird behaving horn....driving along fairly smooth highway horn will occasionally beep for 1-2 seconds...no correlation to road condt, frequency, etc...just random.
       
      Going over some really bumpy roads, horn will occasionally beep...or more like a chirp.
       
      Recently noticed now the horn does not work....
       
      Anyone seen this behavior before with suggested things to look for?
       
      I am guessing a loose connection but don't look fwd to trying to trace the wires.
       
      Thanks for any help
       
      J
       
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.