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I'm new to the Porsche family.... Just over a month and the proud owner of a 1999 Boxster. It's a project car but still on the road and my point to point ride. Must say, LOVE to drive this car....This one has been lowered some, well alot... and does it hug the road..... Just doesn't miss much being that low.... My question is, I am having an issue with the rear lights on this car... I know I had a problem with the left rear brake light. I tried tracing back the wire but found no problem... I then switched the lamp holder from the right side to the left and all the lights worked... So I thought I had an equipment issue. I bought a (Porsche) replacement bulb holder. Came in last night. Changed out today...Guess what???? Turn indicators work, Backup lights work, Brake light works on the Right Side ONLY, (still) Now no rear tail lights what so ever......I have checked ALL the fuses, only had to replace one and it had nothing to do with the lights. NOTHING has changed....Where did my tail lights go?????? Can't figure this out.......Please help.......Just FYI, ALL the LIGHTS were working as of last Wed. when I did the bulb holder swap and checking the lights. Power is to both wire harnesses. Everything else works except the left brake light and the drive lights. Go figure.......
This will be my first post, thanks for a great forum !
I've recently purchased a exhaust system from Design911 in the UK which has the valvetronic function on. This is said to replicate the PSE which my car does not have factory installed.
Wired it up and put the vacuum hoses, tested the system and it works fine.
Over to the issue for my car:
When starting up the car, the neutral positon of the valves is open, which means a lot of noice from the exhaust.
When switching this by the solenoid, sending vacuum into the system and the valves closes. This means less sound.
But when the valves is closed the car wont run properly at the RPM range of 5500-7000 RPM's there is also fault codes for misfire on cylinder 2.
The strange thing is that this works perfectly when the valves is open. I've tried two differnet vacuum sources, into the ressonator and also for the left hand side cooling system vacuum solenoids. Without any differnce. I tried to run vacuum directly to the vacuum actuators on the exhaust without any difference and also tried manually applying vacuum and using a one way check valve to keep the vacuum while not connected to the cars vacuum line. No vacuum leaks, no fault codes when driving with the valves open.
Same result every time. So have anyone had some similar issues to their car ?
Thanks in advance for any help !
By Graeme Tate
I hate my pig but I love my pig, can anyone please help me before I send it for scrap. Over the space of the last 4 years of ownership my car has been in the Porsche dealers for 2 years in total with suspension problems, to cut a long story short this is now sorted and was due to a faulty replacement air bag being fitted. Moving on after 3 months of (almost) trouble free motoring this is what’s happening now and would love some advice as the closest porsche dealers is over 200 miles away from me.
When I picked up the car from Porsche it ran out of petrol before I got to the garage at the end of the road and although I filled it up it the engine warning light remained on I assumed this was just fuel related and drove home with it on and reset it when I got home.
Wind on a few weeks and the engine light came back on and gave me a camshaft position sensor error p0016 so I sent the car to my local Porsche mechanic who changed out the sensor and did a full service on the car including plugs filter oil etc etc. All this time the car has been running fine but as I wanted the sensor light out it was changed. However after changing it out the light came back on almost straight away. The car has been a bit sluggish to start sometimes and sometimes on pulling away from a stop has also been hesitant.
This was about 3-4 weeks ago and now it is worse again, at tickover it’s noisy, it doesn’t like acceleration and is running really rough although if you are going over 50mph it doesn’t have a problem and seems to run fine. The EML is now flashing rather than being a solid light. I attach a video of it running.
Any thoughts would be a help before I decide to get it hauled back across again
Sent from my iPhone
By David MB
Help - i have a 2003 Boxter tiptronic s - in great shape other than a shrill loud noise like a Kazoo that only happens above 78mph - it sounds as iff coming from around the mirror area of the windscreen but then occasional sounds like its coming from the speaker area passenger side - that being said could be sound transference. Read a number of blogs about badly fitting windscreen so put tape over top rubber seal and body but still there - - as a say like a kazoo at 78mph with hard or soft top - absolutely driving me mad - any help gratefully received.
I'm new to this website. Here is a question:
I have a 1998 Boxster 2.5 Tiptronic. I just had a new key programmed at dealership ( the old key fob newer worked). With new key fob, all doors (including gas) lock and unlock appropriately. However, when pressing the button to open the rear trunk lid, the lid doesn't move and the rear lock actuator/solenoid is silent. I disconnected the actuator from the car (separating the plastic connector) and using a 9v battery, made the actuator ( and lock) open and close. So I believe the problem is not the actuator. I also connected a volt meter to the two wires that connect from the car to the actuator, then pressed the fob button, and no voltage was recorded. However, the red light on the fob and the red light on the dash near the windshield did light up
So i believe the problem lies in the electrical system somewhere between the actuator and the fob. Any ideas on how to test the wiring running from the trunk lock actuator to the CLU? immobilizer? or wherever it goes? Or should I be spending my time evaluating the CLU? immobilizer? ??
Thanks for any advise!