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Rubber Joint between Window and Door


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On my '99 996 C2 I would like to replace the horizontal rubber joint between the window and the door on the outside of the passenger's door. I guess the previous owner must have taken it off for one reason or the other and has not put it back in a proper manner. Due to this instead of being nicely stretched there are bumps in the joint which you notice especially when looking in the rear mirror from the passenger's seat. There's no infiltration of water or anything like it. The problem is purely esthetical. (I could add a photo later on today).

Did anyone do this before? Is it an easy DIY? Any special tools required or instructions to follow?

Thanks in advance?

Philippe

Edited by Dr. Carrera
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1. Remove the door panel to gain access to the holding clip.

2. Press out clip with a plastic spatula.

3. Pull off door seal on the outside.

4. Carefully pull the seal out of the clips along the door contour.

post-2-1121435400.gif

First position door seal on the outside at the top edge of the door and push it on.

Rest of the installation is the reverse of above.

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That's grand Loren  :clapping:

Thank you very much.

I'll order the part asap and try to fit it myself next week.

Would you mind taking a pic of what your seal looks like today? Also ... maybe a few pics of the change out? I think that I may need to change mine also? I'm curious how long it takes you. Also, I think I checked on the part before. It's fairly expensive ... ~$175.

Thanks

Dan

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That's grand Loren  :clapping:

Thank you very much.

I'll order the part asap and try to fit it myself next week.

Would you mind taking a pic of what your seal looks like today? Also ... maybe a few pics of the change out? I think that I may need to change mine also? I'm curious how long it takes you. Also, I think I checked on the part before. It's fairly expensive ... ~$175.

Thanks

Dan

danjen, I'm also interested in details of how this project goes. Any information you provide will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

b-man

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I tried to install my new door seal but it's not as easy as it looks. As indicated in Loren's message above, first one has to remove the door panel. In order to do this I tried to follow the Renntech "Door panel removal / Install instructions" but could not remove the door panel to gain access to the holding clip :angry: . The scheme of the "Door panel removal / Install instructions" is not really crystal clear if you are not used to doing these things. I preferred not to risk doing anything wrong so I quit and decided to have it done by a professional. Meanwhile however, I sold my car and returned the seal to the dealership.

:jump: In a few weeks I'll have my 996 TT :cheers: More news coming up soon.

Edited by Dr. Carrera
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  • 10 months later...

is their anyway to lubricate this bottom seal on the window? I just noticed my passenger side window is catching (rubbing?)on the seal as it is lowered down. The window still goes down, but it appears that it is slowing the movement a little.

thanks

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is their anyway to lubricate this bottom seal on the window? I just noticed my passenger side window is catching (rubbing?)on the seal as it is lowered down. The window still goes down, but it appears that it is slowing the movement a little.

thanks

Chances are there is something on the seal and it needs to be replaced.
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is their anyway to lubricate this bottom seal on the window? I just noticed my passenger side window is catching (rubbing?)on the seal as it is lowered down. The window still goes down, but it appears that it is slowing the movement a little.

thanks

Chances are there is something on the seal and it needs to be replaced.

I suggest doing what Dr.Carerra did, and just buy a 996 TT. It seemed to get his mind off of the door seal :renntech:

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  • 1 year later...
is their anyway to lubricate this bottom seal on the window? I just noticed my passenger side window is catching (rubbing?)on the seal as it is lowered down. The window still goes down, but it appears that it is slowing the movement a little.

thanks

I had that same problem with my drivers side window all the time on my boxster... I cured this by waxing the windows with "Turtle Wax Platinum Liquid Wax" its for waxing the body of the car. I waxed them up really good, even on the seal too cause the liquid wax wont stain black rubbers, the wax actually came off easy and made the seal look like i ArmerAll'd it. now the rubber seal just glides extra smooth against the window without catching and being pulled down. Guess the window gets rough enough to catch it on the way down. Anyway, problem solved.

Edited by CJ_Boxster
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  • 6 years later...

I was wondering if I should replace my Outer Gasket Door Seal on the Drivers Side.  PN 996-537-085-07-OEM (I think)

When temps are high, the seal often sticks to the window.  What is the cause?  Does it wear at the window?  Is there an easy fix?

 

Seems wax or the like is a Band-Aid.  Today my window went off track so I will need to remove the door panel and re-attach.

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It really did not get off track. Likely, either or both clamps of the regulator let the window go because the friction with the window seal was too high for them to hang on to the window as the motor brought it down.

Fix: You'll have to remove the interior door panel and then reset the window at the proper place. The 2 regulator clamps (front & Back) use each a torx 30 screw (covered each by a rubbery foam cover, which you have to remove to see them once the window is completely up) ,which you will have to relax a bit but not completely remove, position the window correctly fore and aft in the clamps, and then tighten the 2 torx 30 screws. I believe the Pelican tutorial shows you how this is best done but you'll have to remove your speaker to see the window location wrt the front clamp.

 

My window regulator experience: The problem with the window motor regularly fighting the friction between the window seal and the window is that, in time, it slightly elongates the small steel cable driven by the motor around the X-shaped regulator. As the cable gets elongated, the window initial opening gap (around 12mm) gets less and less until either the regulator gives up (at worst) or the window has difficulty clearing the window gutter when completely up. I agree that keeping the window clean, using wax or a detailing liquid of some sort, helps reducing that friction a lot, especially when dry and hot outside.

More complete fix: By using the 2 lower regulator positioning screws (the regulator is held by 4 x10 mm screws) and change their location outboard slightly. These can be easily reached by removing the 2 inboard rubber foamy covers (there are 4 under each door, if looking at a door from fore to aft, it would be #2 and #3 covers that you remove)  and in your case, bring the screws out slightly (1 mm or 2) so the window is driven more towards the interior of the car when it is up. This way, the window will be slightly further away from the seal, hence less friction.

Hope this helps!

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